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#1 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 469
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I am going to update in inlet auger section on my rotor. AGCO has a newer beefed up version. If I can figure out which part number to order. Has anyone else made any other changes to their factory rotor. I here a few talk about St. Johns and Kuckar rotor updates. I was curious about the cost of modifications. Do they high speed balance the rotor afterwards? Who do you guys use to balance your rotors. I was also wondering if you can turn the separator grates around in these combines. I was a little shocked at the amount of wear since I last removed the rotor. I had to replace one concave due to rock damage and it is painfully obvious that the others should probably be replaced also. I was just curious about my option for repairing the machine and balancing the rotor. I will post a few pictures tomorrow after I remove the concaves and separator grates. Also wondering about Rekord straw choppers. I have a Redekop and I not very impressed. I know where a few of the Rekords are just don't know that much about them.
Masseypride Last edited by masseypride; 01-29-2012 at 02:34 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 337
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I am also interested in peoples experiences with the rotor modifications/upgrades. For the chopper, the MAV is a good product. Only thing we have learnt to do is throw away their sieve extension and make our own that doesnt break off constantly. Also, remove unecessary and weight panels from chopper if you do not need to windrow straw.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 469
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Below are the pictures of the my rotor out of my 8780 combine. Along with pictures on the separator grates, concaves and inside components of the processor. I apologies for the size on the photo's. I cannot resize them, so you will have to click on each one a wait until appear in normal size to look at the detail. The ninth pictures shows the typical wear patern on these machines. I'm going to be attempting to making a 1/4 piece of steel for this area to see if I can decrease the wear in this area. The next three are the pictures on the top piece for the inlet housing. I have already bent this housing out and cracked it in two pieces during removing the plugged rotor slugs. That is hard to image due to the fact the upper piece is about 1/4 inch metal. I suppose I couldn't get away with just welding a piece of metal in that seam line. I doubt there is enough clearance to beef up on it to much. The last photo shows the update helical vanes along with cut off marks from the original beater package.
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Last edited by masseypride; 01-31-2012 at 12:23 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 507
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I have used the St Johns rotor in 3 of my combines.. 2-8570 and a 8780.. I found it to be the most cost effective modification to the Massey rotor(at least here in Sask.) I liked the increased capacity and the simple setting of the machine after modifying the rotor. Being from Kanas I would think the St johns would be cheap and convenient..
We static balanced the rotors then installed them and had them high speed balanced in the combines.. your Massey dealer should be able to either do the high speed balancing or tell you who they get to do theirs. I have had nothing but the standard chopper that Massey put on the combines.. but from what I have saw, the Mav does a superior job... But at the cost of using a lot of HP. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 507
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I haven't had a knife on the front of a rotor for years.. when we got our 8560 a dealer told us to remove the front 12.. that would give us a lot more capacity and not lug the motor so badly.. there are no knives on St Johns rotors.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 469
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Northernfarmer,
How much do these St. Johns rotors cost? Did you have to trade in your rotor or did they just modify your existing rotor. I have never heard anything local about the St. Johns Rotor. That could be because I have never heard of anyone around here using them. Masseypride |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 507
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Quote:
Give Terry a call at St Johns welding in St Johns Kansas.. Tell him Neil told you to call.. I hope that wont cost you extra.. ![]() Oh and ask him to get working on my latest project... (rotor in a Massey 9895) Good Luck Neil |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Balgonie, Saskatchewan
Posts: 59
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Masseypride, Agco makes a plate to do what you want in photo 9, it is 1/4 inch thick and molded to in over the existing inlet housing. You remove that existing bolted in wear plate above the return and bolt in the new one and then weld the rest of it. The part is listed in the 9690 parts book, I put them in both my 8780's alot less work than replacing that inlet housing. I'll also suggest the St John's rotor it worked very well for me.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 852
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the rotor mod is under three thousand for sure, they told me if you call ahead they could do it in three days for less if you wanted to drive to kansas and have them do it. Its worth it from everything I have heard
Niel, did you send your rotor to them or just waiting so ur shop can do it? Last edited by 8850jd; 02-01-2012 at 02:05 PM. |
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