Stall test

farmjazz · 01-07-2012, 12:55 PM

I'd like some comments on stall tests. First, to double check, I'd like to confirm that I have an accurate idea of what it is: while harvesting at normal combining speed, you simply turn the key off..........kill the motor while harvesting.

I'd like to get a better view of what is going on, but I just haven't been able to get past how severe it seems to me killing the engine while harvesting under a load is. I would expect the operator would immediately click off the header and separator switches, and start the engine to try to minimize any damage from killing a hot engine.

So, do I have an accurate idea of what it is, and is the severity of the practice exagerated in my mind? Is it very common, or are some of you also resistant to using this technique? Thank you.

Also, I'm looking for a 30' draper header for my 03 Challenger 660. Would like to hear back on possible leads.

farmjazz · 01-07-2012, 01:13 PM

Plus, are there some precautions that need to be taken before engaging the separator again? Open concave clearance? Or simple engage separator and header at idle, and throttle up? Seems like quite a load to engage clutches under.

farmingsk · 01-07-2012, 01:17 PM

You got it. Deere suggests it in their manual, AFAIK, so it can't be too bad for the engine. You need to start right away to cool the turbo charger.

As to what to look for, that's a tougher one. It would be nice if an outfit like PAMI could produce an illustrated guide. When I look inside it's hard for me know what looks normal. In general, you don't want too much broken straw inside the cleaning system. You also don't want too much unthreshed. The chaff should be nicely spread across the width of the machine. If you have a pan under the rotor, you can check how far the grain is back on that pan (tells you how well separating is working). Ideally it would be good to see what's in the return but I'm not sure that's accurate since more probably comes in while the machine slows down.

farmingsk · 01-07-2012, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmjazz

Plus, are there some precautions that need to be taken before engaging the separator again? Open concave clearance? Or simple engage separator and header at idle, and throttle up? Seems like quite a load to engage clutches under.

In my experience, there is no need to open the concave. Even when killing the machine under full load the rotor starts without problem. I suspect the rotor cleans itself while it spins down. Also, when crop it flowing normally there is really not much material in the process anyhow. Not like when you plug.

offroadnt · 01-07-2012, 02:16 PM

For New Holland you don't just shut off the key. There is a procedure you do on the multi function handle, I don't remember exactly, the main reason is when you shut off the key it instantly engages the brake.

tx68 · 01-07-2012, 02:50 PM

I push the kill stall switch and push the hydro forward and foot brake when the engine rpm starts to drop after about 5 seconds. Then shut off the thrashing switch and restart engine right away. The kill stall switch keeps the drives engaged when the engine stops so the thrasher stops faster with the engine brakeing effect. Simply
shutting off the key instantly disengages all the drives so no engine brakeing.

01-07-2012, 12:55 PM	#1 (permalink)
farmjazz Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Highmore, South Dakota Posts: 35	Stall test I'd like some comments on stall tests. First, to double check, I'd like to confirm that I have an accurate idea of what it is: while harvesting at normal combining speed, you simply turn the key off..........kill the motor while harvesting. I'd like to get a better view of what is going on, but I just haven't been able to get past how severe it seems to me killing the engine while harvesting under a load is. I would expect the operator would immediately click off the header and separator switches, and start the engine to try to minimize any damage from killing a hot engine. So, do I have an accurate idea of what it is, and is the severity of the practice exagerated in my mind? Is it very common, or are some of you also resistant to using this technique? Thank you. Also, I'm looking for a 30' draper header for my 03 Challenger 660. Would like to hear back on possible leads.

01-07-2012, 02:16 PM	#5 (permalink)
offroadnt Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,004	For New Holland you don't just shut off the key. There is a procedure you do on the multi function handle, I don't remember exactly, the main reason is when you shut off the key it instantly engages the brake. __________________ Why is there never time and money to do it correctly but there's always plenty to do it again

01-07-2012, 01:13 PM	#2 (permalink)
farmjazz Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Highmore, South Dakota Posts: 35	Plus, are there some precautions that need to be taken before engaging the separator again? Open concave clearance? Or simple engage separator and header at idle, and throttle up? Seems like quite a load to engage clutches under.

01-07-2012, 01:17 PM	#3 (permalink)
farmingsk Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: East-Central SK Posts: 151	You got it. Deere suggests it in their manual, AFAIK, so it can't be too bad for the engine. You need to start right away to cool the turbo charger. As to what to look for, that's a tougher one. It would be nice if an outfit like PAMI could produce an illustrated guide. When I look inside it's hard for me know what looks normal. In general, you don't want too much broken straw inside the cleaning system. You also don't want too much unthreshed. The chaff should be nicely spread across the width of the machine. If you have a pan under the rotor, you can check how far the grain is back on that pan (tells you how well separating is working). Ideally it would be good to see what's in the return but I'm not sure that's accurate since more probably comes in while the machine slows down.

01-07-2012, 02:50 PM	#6 (permalink)
tx68 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Merlin Ont Posts: 245	I push the kill stall switch and push the hydro forward and foot brake when the engine rpm starts to drop after about 5 seconds. Then shut off the thrashing switch and restart engine right away. The kill stall switch keeps the drives engaged when the engine stops so the thrasher stops faster with the engine brakeing effect. Simply shutting off the key instantly disengages all the drives so no engine brakeing.

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