Impeller plugging in soybeans . - The Combine Forum

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post #1 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Impeller plugging in soybeans .

2014 780 40 ft mcdon. Had v,s put between cyl bars before starting. Plugs up lntakes to rotors between them and impeller . The 2011 760 I had before this 780 had stuf hairpin in that same area but never plugged up like this. Any solutions?

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post #2 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 02:41 AM
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Have you done the header auger modification? Involves shortening the longest flighting so that the auger isn't trying to bunch it right in the center. We don't beans and can't make any direct experience comment but it make sense trying to minimize wads right dead center.

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post #3 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't shorten the flighting but I did put all the fingers in the auger
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post #4 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 08:18 AM
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I would likely cut off some auger flighting considering you have a wide body and the auger flighting can bring a lot to the middle.

I don't know what is standard and what isn't anymore on newer machines. Does a 780 come with the rotor intake flow kit standard, not a big improvement either way IMO. Does it have the new Claas knife kit or whatever they call it below the back side of the impeller, between the rotors? The knife that I built is the best thing I have installed for impeller improvement. I have only had material build up above the impeller once since, and I think there was a small tree that came through to start the build up. I have only plugged impeller once since installing also, in some real nasty weeds after the sun went down and I was driving too fast with cylinder too slow.

Are you actually plugging the impeller, or just getting material built up between impeller and tank, and that material rubs all day on the impeller in the middle, wearing it down?

I am highly considering taking a pvc pipe, about 12" in diameter, and cut it in half length ways about 2 feet long. Take it and bolt it above the impeller in the mid section. This will prevent any long, green material that comes around the top from hairpinning in the cavity on the underside of the grain tank.
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post #5 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 10:09 AM
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In addition to the above comments there is a kit that aggressively cuts the crop flow behind the impeller.
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post #6 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 10:41 AM
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I would highly recommend cutting of the flighting on your header. I did this and added the fingers and it has greatly helped with my APS plugs and belt breakage. As far as helping the impeller I am not sure if it will do much but it will not hurt. We still plugged our impeller quite a bit this year after the header modification. The best thing for the impeller is to put in a knife system to cut the ropey material prior to the rotor. I wil be researching this to do in the off season.
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post #7 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SWMan View Post
In addition to the above comments there is a kit that aggressively cuts the crop flow behind the impeller.
Beat me to it SWMan, I have that kit in but haven't been in anything that would make any difference yet.
I think Claas is hanging their hat on the "V" plates on cylinder/drum but both would help.

Definitely remove auger stuffing flights right to feeder edge!

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Last edited by Don Boles; 09-23-2016 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Serrated kit not avaliable
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post #8 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 11:44 AM
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Beat me to it SWMan, I have that kit in but haven't been in anything that would make any difference yet.
When we ordered that kit early summer there was only three kits on the planet but something has changed and availability is better now.
I think Claas was hanging their hat on the "V" plates on cylinder/drum but both would help.

Definitely remove auger stuffing flights right to feeder edge!
Did you see how they installed the knife kit? I purchased the Claas knife kit, but it didn't come with installation instructions. I even talked to a service rep at Claas, and he said there wasn't a procedure yet because the kit was so new. The only way I could see installing it is by pulling the impeller, and I wasn't about to do that during harvest. I did install the serrated impeller blades that came with the kit, and they helped immensely. They need to sell those serrated pieces as a separate kit because they do a better job for a much longer time than the regular smooth wear pieces.

1934, I would try to get your hands on the serrated pieces shown in SW's post. They will make your life much better. The knife part can only help as well.
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post #9 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 11:56 AM
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Did you see how they installed the knife kit? I purchased the Claas knife kit, but it didn't come with installation instructions. I even talked to a service rep at Claas, and he said there wasn't a procedure yet because the kit was so new. The only way I could see installing it is by pulling the impeller, and I wasn't about to do that during harvest. I did install the serrated impeller blades that came with the kit, and they helped immensely. They need to sell those serrated pieces as a separate kit because they do a better job for a much longer time than the regular smooth wear pieces.

1934, I would try to get your hands on the serrated pieces shown in SW's post. They will make your life much better. The knife part can only help as well.
http://www.thecombineforum.com/forum..._013907062.jpg

Anyone notice anything?
The impeller diagram has them shown correct, the single piece marked A is shown backwards/upside down.

Doesn't matter, that kit is currently made of Unobtainim.
Clearly, Claas hanging their hat on the "V" cylinder splitters.

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post #10 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 12:00 PM
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Don I thought you had the sunny brook impeller in? I sure would have been able to test the new impeller this year with the conditions we have been in. The long ropey green kochia is the ultimate test. It pretty well destroyed my chopper blades, wind paddles, and stationary blades. They were bent like spaghetti.

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