JD fuel guage issue - Page 2 - The Combine Forum

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-22-2013, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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It works great when it's working, then slowly drops to E when things go awry. The last time I put it together I had installed an old sender out of the 4020 so I may actually have fried a sender this time. That tractor is very easy on fuel so I'll have to wait till the tank is down to change it again. This time I'll put a new wire to the gauge as well... oh joy, we get to lift the cab again. At least we managed to finish the fall tilling over the weekend. Lots of guys around here still have significant amounts of crop in the field.

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Finally had a chance to grab the test light and check it at the sender yesterday. No glow and I couldn't trigger the gauge so I'm guessing it's time for that wire to the sender to get replaced. Either that or my new gauge is out to lunch, so I'm hoping it's just the wire. Looks like I get to lift the cab...again...

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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Well, 3 yrs after this post started, I'm back to no fuel gauges on my 2 old tractors. I've been doing some online searching and it appears I had bad advice on which pairs to use with tractors that have been converted to 12 volt neg ground systems. Latest research shows I should be using sender AR26434 ($100 Cdn) and gauge RE53664 (wtf...$252 Cdn). It seems that sender operates at 0 ohms full to 30 ohms empty so I'll do some searching around on Monday to see if I can get a good aftermarket one. The Princess Auto units lasted a couple years, but the sender isn't sealed good enough for use on the side of the tank as it's started leaking through the center of the sender. Probably wouldn't be an issue in a typical auto application where you're just sealing for slosh at the top of the tank.

http://www.justanswer.com/agricultur...ohn-deere.html

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com...c.php?t=886247
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 01:26 AM
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If it's been converted to 12 volt negative ground, wouldn't late model 4020 and 5020 Deere gauges and senders work? They where 12v from the factory. The gauge part# ar45436, fits 4020, 5020, 4320, 4620 etc. The sender part# ar46268 fits 4020, 4320. For the 5020, 4620 you need part# ar43676 for the sender. This is straight out of the parts book. I would hope Deere stuff is higher quality than princess auto.
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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You would think it would be easy, but if you read through the threads posted above, you'll see I'm not the first one to fry a bunch of gauges. Some play with negative ground, some don't. I thought the one out of a 4230 would be a natural if you could get a gauge to fit the dash and work with the sender range. People that have been this route before list the parts numbers I listed above. You would hope that they should last longer than the P/A junk, but so far that hasn't been my experience. I'll try to see if I can get a decent SW gauge that's made for the 30/0 ohm rating... if not I guess I'll be biting the $350 bill... which I actually wouldn't bitch about if I can get a combination that lasts. If you go back to post #1, the part numbers you suggest are the ones I put on the 5020 the last time. The P/A "junk" outlasted them by well over a year.
Edit: When I removed the Princess Auto sender, I took a good look at it. Aside from weeping fuel through the center of the sender, the moving slide had worn through the windings of the rheostat. I think the gauge was still good, but I can't see these senders having a very long life span regardless of the conditions. Diesel is a better lubricant than gasoline, so if they don't last in a diesel tank, I wouldn't recommend them.

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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 03:39 AM
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I have been fighting with Deere on my 4020 also, what a mess! First bought a gauge and a sender, be hard to mess that up right?

What a joke, first they don't match. Second one doesn't even fit in the hole and the third is shaped different and none of the mounts hold it in the hole.

I took that last guage (really pissed at this point after buying a bunch of crap and since it's electrical if the box is opened there is no return) chucked it at the floor as hard as I could, put it in the box and told them I wanted my money back because of shipping damage.... hey I got my money on that one....

But what a joke, Deere has been really starting to get on my nerves for these 20 series parts. This particular tractor burned the wire harness from one end to the other, tractor was on an auger and I no more than walked around the bin to piss and suddenly smelt smoke and then heard the starter engaged.
I wanted to get up and running asap and I went to deere and bought all new harnesses and to my amazement they didn't even have the same wire connection for splitting the tractor. Brand new harness couldn't hook together! Stupid!
I put it in the shop and biult a brand new harness 10x better than original. It is now equipped with a 100 amp alternator, 4 guage wire to handle it, fuse panel and relays for starting and lighting.

Hopefully I can find a flipping guage one of these days! Something that looks factory also!

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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 09:26 AM
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Did you ground sender base? I know its 101, but just checking
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Yep... did that the first time around. The 5020 has a new wire to the gauge as well. Much like SW I've made my own wiring for the 4020 conversion. Old electrics and leaky hydraulics under dash don't play well, so I made a console in the top of the cab over the windshield with lights, relays, solenoids and a fuse panel. I've also gone to single wire 135 amp alternators (Delco) and a single suitcase style battery so it's got better lights than it ever had new. You would think with all the 4020's still out there, that there's a market for good upgrade kits, but they don't seem to exist.
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 01:19 PM
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I'll second that stuff like gauges for those older tractors just don't have the quality the originals ever did. And the price for some of them is outrageous.
For the late 20 series with the fiber optics dash lighting, the mech temp guages are now over $200 Can. Most I seem to get out of them is a few years at best.

As for the fuel gauge and float, one that would fit both the tank and dash would be the ones for the later models, which were all straight 12V. Only problem is, the gauge won't have the hole for a light bulb, just a small one for the fiber optics cable. Anything for a 4020 s/n 250000 and up will be of that style.

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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like JD messed with them enough that you cant use the aftermarket stuff too. Older GM's used the 0-30 range, but they were 0 empty and 30 full. JD uses 0 full and 30 empty. The gauge is all over Ebay for $30 to $65 USD, but the sellers won't ship into Canada. There are also clearance issues with some of the gauges since many of the newer ones are deeper and can interfere with hydraulic lines etc. under the dash.

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