JD fuel guage issue - Page 3 - The Combine Forum

 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 04:16 PM
Senior Member
 
stevie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,020
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 306 Post(s)
Farmtronics Ltd. - Regina, Saskatchewan Canada - Farm Electronics Instrumentation service, repair, and sales center.

Presume you have checked here

stevie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
whtbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South Central Manitoba
Posts: 1,724
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Yep... I've got their catalogue. The Isspro gauge operates on a 240-33 ohm range, and their corresponding senders are meant to be top mounted ( for tanks 5" to 27" deep) in the tank like the P/A unit. I'm wondering if I could redrill the JD sender and turn it upside down to work with a GM style gauge.

whtbaron is offline  
post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
whtbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South Central Manitoba
Posts: 1,724
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Has anyone got a tech manual for a 30 Series tractor to tell me what empty/full range a RE221715 sender uses? The parts listings don't seem to have the info they used to provide.
whtbaron is offline  
post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 07:33 PM
Senior Member
 
stevie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,020
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 306 Post(s)
When you get really frustrated you can run a clear line were you can see it for a gauge, like some articulates
stevie is offline  
post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
whtbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South Central Manitoba
Posts: 1,724
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
For $28 ($14 on sale) I could also get a new sender from P/A and mount the electronics on a JD base so it doesn't leak. I think the P/A gauge is still good. I can't say the same for the $350 setup from John Deere. Might run one each way and see how it lasts. I was able to mount the P/A gauge in the 4020 (Powershift) dash by swapping the positions of the trans temp and fuel gauge locations. I don't have that option in the 5020 (standard) dash so it needs a low profile gauge. If I can find a JD sender that matches up with a good quality aftermarket gauge, that would be my preferred route. Another option is to buy a handful of the Ebay units and have them shipped to a PO box at the border.
whtbaron is offline  
post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 09:20 PM
Senior Member
 
albertabuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Boyle, Alberta
Posts: 3,625
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 531 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
For $28 ($14 on sale) I could also get a new sender from P/A and mount the electronics on a JD base so it doesn't leak. I think the P/A gauge is still good. I can't say the same for the $350 setup from John Deere. Might run one each way and see how it lasts. I was able to mount the P/A gauge in the 4020 (Powershift) dash by swapping the positions of the trans temp and fuel gauge locations. I don't have that option in the 5020 (standard) dash so it needs a low profile gauge. If I can find a JD sender that matches up with a good quality aftermarket gauge, that would be my preferred route. Another option is to buy a handful of the Ebay units and have them shipped to a PO box at the border.
I'll look that up for you after supper. As for stuff on Ebay shipping to Canada, not sure what your rating is on there, but seldom do I ever have an issue requesting shipping to here even when they state they won't. Worst they can say if you ask is no, maybe you already have, if so sorry for bring it up, but if not, try

Contracts are made to be broken, a handshake is the law of God.
albertabuck is offline  
post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 09:32 PM
Senior Member
 
Grainline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central alberta
Posts: 255
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Im pretty sure jd 20 to 40 series fuel guages r 0 to 90 ohms full is 90 empty is 0.
Grainline is offline  
post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
whtbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South Central Manitoba
Posts: 1,724
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grainline View Post
Im pretty sure jd 20 to 40 series fuel guages r 0 to 90 ohms full is 90 empty is 0.
Not all of them... you have to go by part numbers or you will get burned. Ask me how I know. If you grounded the ones I've bought in the past, they would go to full. That means the right sender would be 0 resistance at full. If you read the troubleshooting guides for cars/trucks, the procedure is opposite relative to the JD gauges. There are also issues with polarity. While a 24v 5020 still used 12 volt gauges at the dash, the 24v system was positive ground. Different sender/gauge combo's. Everyone thinks you "should" be able to swap in the later version 20 series gauges/senders, but they don't last and I don't have a good explanation why at this point, other than to say it's affected multiple people that have converted to 12v neg ground systems.
SWFarmService likes this.

Last edited by whtbaron; 01-08-2017 at 10:35 PM.
whtbaron is offline  
post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 10:58 PM
Senior Member
 
albertabuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Boyle, Alberta
Posts: 3,625
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 531 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
Has anyone got a tech manual for a 30 Series tractor to tell me what empty/full range a RE221715 sender uses? The parts listings don't seem to have the info they used to provide.
Gauge....MT=1 ohm, 1/2=44 ohms, full=88 ohms
Sender...MT=0 ohms, 1/2=45 ohms, full=90 ohms
TM1058, 4630, 1974, factory manual.

As for wiring, negative ground is negative ground...so unless something isn't wired right no reason the components won't work from the newer 20 series.
When you rewired yours over to 12 volts, you went thru everything? For many years Deere did have a kit, everything from harnesses, alternator and starter all in one box, but I haven't seen or heard of them in a while now. Years back a neighbor put one in a early 4020 and I seem to remember there was something screwy with how the fuel gauge was wired but I can't remember what it was now. I'm thinking there was some resistor that had to be installed if you was using the old components perhaps. But if when you made the change to 12v, anything that was tied to that stupid double system of one system postive ground and the other negative needed to be changed. As for example the lights were split between the two, to balance the charge rates on each battery and this was all done thru the light switch itself.
Gotta be something simple you are over looking. Happens to us all at times, hope you get it figured out.

Contracts are made to be broken, a handshake is the law of God.

Last edited by albertabuck; 01-08-2017 at 11:02 PM. Reason: added comment
albertabuck is offline  
post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
whtbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South Central Manitoba
Posts: 1,724
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Oh, pay dirt! GM used 0-90 between 1965 and 97... and being GM (not Chrysler) I don't have to worry about the positive ground nonsense. This just might work. I'll see what I can get for gauges through my local NAPA dealer tomorrow. Pretty sure they'll be under $200. Thank you for your help. I just picked this sender up before I started doing my online homework and was thinking it might not be a good one to try. Grainline might have been right if he'd stuck to 30 and 40 series tractors.

I didn't have a kit for the conversion, but my brother was working as a John Deere tech when we did it, so he had the inside scoop on doing it all right. The original gauge was already fried when we tackled it but if it has 12 volts coming to it, and the sender is properly matched to the ground, it "should" work. We tossed the old generator nonsense and went with a Delco alternator which I'm currently switching to a single wire. All the lights get a full 12 volts courtesy of a new system of cab solenoids and relays complete with a fuse panel from an old car in an overhead console. The only wiring in the dash is the ignition switch and the wires to the gauges.

whtbaron is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Combine Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome