Deere 4430 Slipping? - The Combine Forum
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Deere 4430 Slipping?

I've recently purchased a John deere 4430 with a quad range transmission. Tractor goes in and out of all gears and drives fine. Under load it slips in all gears. I can apply the brake, and the tractor will stop...The engine will not bog down or change RPM's. I'm wanting to try to diagnose the problem before I attempt to split the tractor and look at the clutch pack. Does it sound like a bad clutch or could it possibly be something else? I've never messed with a wet clutch before so I'm looking for any advise I can get. Thanks
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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its the clutch. I just did mine this winter. Its real easy. When you get the tractor split, just unbolt the clutch and take it into john deere. They will install new clutch disc's and adjust it. Just take it home and bolt it back on the tractor. good luck.

I should add that you may want to check the lube pressure first. last year the JD shop split my 8650 and put in a new clutch because they thought it was toast. It turned out to be a gasket leaking on the control valve. Wasnt very happy.
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Im going to buy a Hydraulic pressure gauge this week to check the clutch and lube pressure. Is their anything in particular that I need to do when splitting the tractor. I know it has a hex drive shaft that goes to the transmission pump in the rear of the transmission. Or is it simply,block the front, pull the bolts and push the the rear away from the front? like on a 4320 ect...Something with a dry clutch. This is going to be my first time dealing with a perma-clutch.

Johndeere1...I appreciate the response, and hate ask so many questions. About how much $$$ am I looking at to get the clutch pack rebuilt/adjusted?

Is their anything else that I need to address while I have the tractor split?

Thanks!!

Last edited by Deere9500; 08-26-2012 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There are several things that need to be checked and tested before you split that tractor.

First off, have you changed your transmission filter A restricted filter will cause exactly the symptoms you have.

Secondly and most importantly is you need to check your clutch operating pressure, not as mentioned previously the lube pressure (which is only 15 PSI). Depending on what the results are after testing the clutch pressure, that will determine how many other tests need to be done.

DO NOT down play or cut corners on the importance of these tests as this clutch is held engaged by hydraulic pressure, so if the clutch operating piston or the lines leading to it are leaking internally, and you don't conduct the tests properly, you could end up splitting the tractor, installing a new clutch and still have it slipping afterwards because you never fixed the real problem.

After changing the filter and if there is no change in operation, roughly below the left front corner of the cab there is a valve body that has linkage connected to the clutch and PTO levers and several test ports, this is where you will be conducting your pressure tests.

The ports are labeled with names cast into the valve housing. All tests must be done with oil at operating temperature and this is important. First connect a 300 psi gauge to the port labeled CLUTCH. Pressure at 1900 RPM should be 170-180PSI.

Drop engine RPM 300-500 RPM, observe how much pressure drops. Increase RPM to 2200 and observe pressure increase. If in either case the pressure change over the initial pressure at 1900 RPM is more than a few PSI, this is indication of either low oil flow or internal leakage.

If pressure remains constant at the 170-180, then most likely it is in fact the clutch pack itself that has failed. If the pressure is lower than 170 PSI, before you do anything else, you test the operating pressure of the PTO clutch.

These tests aid in determining if it is internal leakage or low oil supply from the charge pump. With the gauge connected to the PTO Clutch port, with PTO engaged at 1900 RPM, pressure should be exactly the same as the initial Transmission Clutch test pressure. Check the pressure at the lower and higher speeds as with the clutch tests. If the PTO clutch pressure is overall always higher, this is an indicator the transmission clutch piston is leaking or the lines running to it.

If after testing both clutches the highest pressure obtained at 1900 RPM is below 170 PSI, it is necessary to adjust the system pressure regulating valve and increase the system pressure to obtain 180+/- at 1900 RPM and conduct the tests again.

I cant take the time to tell you everything about how to do this, this is a rough description of what needs to be done before anything is taken apart. If you have any questions, be as specific as possible and I will try to explain what information you need. Most of this info is contained in the I&T manual for that tractor which is available new for around $30 if you dont want to spend the bucks on the Deere ones. I have both.

You mentioned that hex shaft that drives the charge pump, yes it needs to be removed when splitting and remove it completely, don't leave it sticking out the back of the tractor even a foot or so, I learned this the hard way Got doing something else and ended up bending one when something fell against it
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Last edited by albertabuck; 08-26-2012 at 09:07 PM. Reason: clarifiction
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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albertabuck...Thanks so much for taking the time to walk me through that. I'll change the hydraulic filter...I'm going to order a hydraulic pressure gauge so I can check the clutch pressure also. Hopefully it will be something minor (filter). I'll let you know my findings!
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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About how much $$$ am I looking at to get the clutch pack rebuilt/adjusted?

It cost me about $1500 i think. Can't remember off the top of my head.

And read all of albertabuck's post or just by a cd from JD for a few bucks.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok....Here's the update on the old JD 4430 quad...I removed the Hydraulic filter to change it. Of course it was filthy, which was what I expected and hoped for... But what i was shocked to discover was Engine Oil in the Hydraulic Fluid. And a lot of it! So Im guessing rear main seal is BAD! Filter had 1994 stamped on it...LOL...so no telling how long the it has been since the fluids had been changed. This was an auction tractor, and I have very limited history on it from the previous owner. What will be My next course of action. Thanks Guys!
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