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9280 Axle Seals

21K views 33 replies 7 participants last post by  mikey350 
G
#1 ·
Has anyone done the axle seals on a 9280? Looks like a big job to do, just curious what I am in for, had a mechanic come out and he thought that the bearings were fine, just the seals are wrecked. I imagine it is possible to check the bearings while doing the seals.

Any advice/tips to doing this?

Thanks,
Mike
 
#2 ·
Mate we ever I have done axle seal on 9380 its been due to the bearings been loose. You are going to need a big set of bearing spreaders to get the inner bearing off, be just as easy to cut bearing of and re race, have to get inner bearing of to replace seal.

How bad are they leaking? I have never done it but if just a weep why not try tightening up the wheel bearings. Pull tyres of and outer set of planetary s out. Then see if the big c nut is loss and how much metal is in the final drive, have a look in the oil feed tray to top tow inner planetary gears for metal.

Madsnake
 
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#3 ·
That is what im worried about, I think I was quoted 5 grand to do the bearings, with labour I think, so I am curious, but he thought they were fine, we had a lot of dirt up on the vent, but the vent wasn't plugged, if that makes sense somehow. They have been leaking a lot of oil, like its been sitting in my shop for a month and a good 5x5 ft area of oil on the floor under each side. Its just the back axle leaking too. I am gonna pull the tires and check the nut and see how loose it is, and what the oil in the bottom of it looks like as well. Little worried about it
 
#4 ·
Mate this is a few year ago but I thought $1500 in parts a side for wheel bearings and seals, this is in Australia and we are taken for a ride with parts pricing. Buy the oil you have I would be striping its not a weep. If bearings are f--- ed strip and clean plant gears, there is 44 rollers in each gear, use grease to hold in to get together.

Madsnake
 
#5 ·
would fix sooner then later before you wreck the planetary. You can get parts from big tractor parts out of the states and they are a lot cheaper then CNH. We put syn 75w 90 truck oil back into are diffs and have had no trouble since. Was told hytran was way to thin for bearings and loads in those Russian axles and to use heaver oil.
 
#6 ·
My brother did my seals for $150 labour and i think the seals where around $200 he said unless the bearings have run without oil or run loose which is unlikely they should never wear out. $1500 for parts seems pricey though dealer charges $2200 to do wheel seal not sure what they hose ya for bearings too but i know alot of guys gut rapped letting the dealer work on there iron. A big farm could justify a journyman mechanic these days with dealers charging $125/hr shop rate
 
G
#7 ·
Thanks for the info guys, I'm just at the stage where we are trying to get the lock nut off, and its on there tight! We pressed all the tabs on the lock washer behind it back, and made a tool to fit in the notches of the nut, and cannot get it to budge, are they really on there that tight?! any tips for doing this part of it?

stressful having one thing hold you back to finishing a job
 
G
#11 ·
Thats what we are building now, a nice size pipe to fit in there and have the planetary gears to hold, you're right that looks like the best way to do it.

hahaha yes its very annoyimng when one little thing holds the whole job up i didnt think they where that tight we had the right socket from the case ih dealer but i have heard of guys just lightly tapping them with a dull chisal on the nothes to get it turning.
Yeah i didn't think it should be this tight either, but I guess I'll see what we can do. How much was the tool? or did you just borrow it?

Give it some heat, might be loctite on there?

Bruce
Its too close to any gears, i'd be worried about hurting them, I hope they didnt loctite it, giver a go trying this newer tool.
 
G
#12 ·
got them loose! Our new tool worked, had a nice sized snipe on it though I will say. But no damage, now unto making a tool to push the hub off, and then finally start replacing the seal. And then start on the other side too.
 
#14 ·
Just did one on my 9390 found flakes in oil when changed last spring and checked this fall again same amount of flakes again other wheels all good.Thought gears were flaking off took it apart and nothing in any bearing roller or gears finally cut inner bearing apart and found race was flaking off 7000 hours seal wasn't leaking yet.2 bearings about 550 each and seal was 250 or so. Had to make some tools .Wrench made by OTC for installing hub sold only to case dealers six week or more delivery took some friendly persuasion with come alongs and a tap or too.There is a flat piece that bolts to the hub that the nut wrench goes through and holds it from slipping off you have to put 900 to 1100 ft lbs torque to seat the bearings then back nut off 90 degrees and tighten till you have 40 to 50 lbs of rolling torque for proper preload.20 to 30 for used bearings.Big tractor sells parts but not much for wrenches.This was for a raba 694 rear axle in a 9390.
 
#17 ·
That sounds right the specs always worked off I was a bit over 200lps and about 5' of bar got them farly close. Also get a good punch and give the bearing or the planet carrier a few wacks through the gaps in the c nut when near tight to Mach sure bearings are seated.

Madsnake
 
G
#21 ·
Use synthetic gear oil not hytran thats part of the reason why components dont last as long as they should. mikey we borrowed tool from dealer had a friend that worked there. he is no longer there and like every red dealer its now owned by rocky mountain so we are going to have to make or buy a tool this time
Hey guys, yeah I think I will be adding gear oil in, we got the parts from Big Tractor in ND so thats what they said to do, We ended up breaking the nuts off the original tool I made, so instead of nuts we welded a piece of pipe to it, cut a hole throw the pipe and put a 5 foot snipe on it, and it turned the nut right out! I got the nut, lock washer and space washer out, and left to go back to the city for university, and haven't been home since to work on it. I am hoping to get the hub off this Friday, and pull the seal and get the one side back together.

I am making a video for this job as well to document it, and maybe it helps someone else out in the future, so I will edit my footage together after both seals are done. Everything looks good inside so far, but you never know til it is all apart, its a bigger job then I first thought, but certainly not hard once you got the tools.
 
#20 ·
Use synthetic gear oil not hytran thats part of the reason why components dont last as long as they should. mikey we borrowed tool from dealer had a friend that worked there. he is no longer there and like every red dealer its now owned by rocky mountain so we are going to have to make or buy a tool this time
 
#22 ·
Ya proper tools are awesome makes the job much easier . Ben at big tractor is good they have worked on a few there is a older fellow about 80 that knows his stuff about those raba axles .They call him kernel .Well good luck looking forward to hearing from ya about the project .
 
G
#23 ·
Well I got the hub off! I made the tool to push it off, that wasnt so bad, but I over built it, You'll see what I mean ;) I havent made a second tool to take the adjusting nut off to get the second seal off, but I am going to do that tomorrow when I find the time. The big outside seal looks pretty weathered, tiny tiny surface cracks all over it, and the inside seal looks a little weird to me as well, but I would almost bet money the seals are just old and weathered, and that the bearing is fine. Tractor has sat outside all of its life in -40*C winters and +35*C summers, and I am always replacing o-rings and seals for the hydraulic system it feels like. I will also add a sort video of what I got done and how it looks so far tomorrow, hands were too dirty, and busy to hold a camera today.

Once all the tools are made I wouldn't be scared of doing this ever again, I found it harder to take the duals off (650's filled with calcium chloride) than anything so far, but its not back together yet either ;)

Anyways thought I'd update you guys
 
#24 ·
Yeah weather amd age is likely the problem my 9180 only started leaking in winter its on triples so 3 tires to take off atleast no fluid. For taling off inner nut a guy told me to cut a round plate correct size tgen weld to an old sockett then well keystock facing aawway from socket onto round circle to get if. Anoter guy i know has used a dull chisal and hammer to lightly tap nut loose. Timkin claim a bearing never actually wears out the metal is so hard with correct lubrication it will virtually last forever. However lack of oil and poor maintaance or overloadimg etc cause bearing failure. If you chamge oil regualrly amd run good gear oil and never let it run low bearings should be fine. Remeber 8000hrs or whatever your tractor has is very little bearing rotation when you consider highway trucks which travel on average 6-8 times faster last the life of the truck (25-50,000 hrs).
 
G
#25 ·
I got the adjusting nut off last weekend before I left, and I pulled all the seals last night. I am just in the process of cleaning the threads up on the adjusting nut, and the thread on the hub, before I can get that nut back on, but I am a little hung up, book says to torque the adjusting nut to a final toque of 650-725 ft/lbs to seat the bearings, but I never touched the bearings, just removed the adjusting nut, so does that mean I need to retorque it to that? I know it has to have 25-30 lbs of rolling toque in the end, so should I just tighten it up until it reaches the rolling torque?

I like the idea of staking the adjusting nut after, but it makes it crappy to clean up when you have to reinstall the adjusting nut ;)

Hopefully I can get some progress on this today

Gets confusing when the instructions arent that great, and pictures aren't any better
 
#26 ·
Mate I would seat the bearings, don't get cought up on the tension but go for FT, then back off and adjust to correct rolling torque. I would go FT spin each way a few turns then FT again and spin then adjust.

9280 must be a far bit different to 9380 to be able to reseal with out touching inner bearing.

Madsnake
 
#28 ·
Mikey 350 IAm with madsnake it sounds like your axle is somewhat diff to the 9390 I had. To remove the small inner bearing to get seal off and it was a b---tch had to cut off with cut off wheel worked great then .But something sounds a little different are your axles pressure lubed ?If so doesn't it pump from hyd tank I think they call it a cooling type system so do u have to plug off system so gear oil doesn't go to hyd tank ?Mite be too late now but those guys at big tractor told me to check the bearing race bores and make sure they had not turned in hub and to put some loctite retaining compound on them to make sure they didn't in future.Sorry cant help much on specs mine said 900 to 1100 to seat bearings then back off 90 degrees and rotate couple times then set to 25 -30 rolling torque for old bearings and 45-50 for new .
 
G
#32 ·
this is very frustrating, still havent got it back on, I torqued it up backed it off, torqued it up again, backed it off, and put the hub back on the tractor to test the rolling torque, maybe that is where I am going wrong, unless I should be checking it the same way I had it laying?

I could only get 14ft/lbs of steady rolling torque out of it, second time I have redone it. I will pull it off tomorrow and lay it down and check it that way, I tried three different scales too, one being digital all within 3 lbs of each other. If I could find a case mechanic that moonlighted and wasn't busy, Id just pay him to do it but thats impossible.

Good news is the tranny is on its way back together here tomorrow, so its getting close.
 
#33 ·
Mate how are you doing up the nut? It is a c nut like 9380? I would try getting a good solid punch and give the inner race of the bearing a few good smacks then tighten nut some more and keep going till you get it at or above rolling torque.

New or old bearings? The nut is not bottoming out of thread or any thing like a spacer or something is missing? What is the spec mate?

Good luck.

Madsnake
 
G
#34 ·
This is a four slit adjusting ring nut, I was told by a case mechanic that 14 ft/lbs is pretty good rolling torque for used bearings, I am positive I got them tight. So I will be slapping the seal in tonight, I talked to a couple guys and got the same thing about pre loading this bearing.
 
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