Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890 - The Combine Forum
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

Can anyone tell me much about the difference between the John Deere 1860 and 1890 drills?

A guy here is selling an 1860 and says he has had it for about 5yrs and has hardly used it, says it has only done about 3000ac.
He thought the only difference was the sticker but I think I will steer clear, I have spoken to guys who have had 1890's for 6yrs so I think he is pulling my leg.

Even if it is "as new".

Any opinions. surely the 60 and 90 series openers must be different.
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

Might be differences in the frame design or construction. I know some customers who had lots of trouble with cracking on 1850 frames. The 1860s were better about not breaking, but I do know of a few that had to be repaired. I haven't heard of any problems with the 1890 frames.
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Old 04-21-2009, 12:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

different boots on the opener. the 60 series was not very impressive I guess. That was the reason for a 90 series -to change it. Other than that I think they are similar.
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Old 04-21-2009, 05:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

Thanks for the quick response guys. That is very helpful.

I think it would pay to go with a 90 series.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

something about millions of grease zerks and different bearings on the 1860 rings a bell, but memory is foggy at best of times
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

The original 1860 boots were split so you could replace the lower half when it wore out. But after guys got some hours on them the pins and their holes that held the halves together would become loose. This would allow air to escape and seed placement became VERY spotty. Also smaller seed like canola would fly out of the crack and end up on top of the ground.

The 1860 boots can easily be replaced with the new one piece 1890 boots if you are willing to pay. Im gonna guess it would be cheaper to pay for the boots then buying the 1890.

Also when you are in there I suggest changing the disks too. The easiest way to measure is with the little BIC retractable pens. If you set the pen on there with the point touching the collar and it hangs past you need new disks. (I beileve the measure is 7 inches??) BUT MAKE SURE IT GOES B TO B. The bevel on the disk should be on the same side as the boot. We had ours done by the dealer and it came home wrong. It worked but the ground didnt close as tight as it should.

As far as the grease zerks. At the annual clinic the local dealer puts on, we were told to take a look at an 1890 and only grease the zerks that it had. The clinician said to only give them one to two pumps and the best time is after the season. This allows the grease that is pushed out to harden and seal so no dirt is sucked into the bearings.

Those are the only differences that I know of. There might be more but u think if you have found a good 1860 dont be afraid to jump on it if the price is right. You will always have the chance to trade up.
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Old 11-01-2009, 04:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

rusty 1 We had an 1860 drill (just traded it off) but studied the diffs between 1860 and 1890 thoroughly b4 purchasing 1860. So now I refer to the 1860 as the "poor man's 1890." The differences are somewhat minimal and are as follows:

1890 has grease zerks on pivot for closing wheel.
1890 has grease zerks on pivot for firming wheel.
Opener (shank) is designed different on 1890; purpose being that is supposed to place the seed better (could never tell any difference in emergence between our 1860 and neighbor's 1890 or 1895).
Seed boots are totally different as someone else has mentioned. The 1890 boot is a one-piece boot made of a hardened material (not carbide) and costs $100 plus. The 1860 boot is a 2-piece boot and you only replace the bottom part. You used to be able to choose between the "standard" boot and a hardened boot (we would purchase this one just so we could get more acres). JD list price on the hardened boot was in the $30 range but for about 3 years in a row (don't know about 2009) Deere would offer them for 1/2 price. So, needless to say, that made that part of the seeding equation cost much cheaper on the 1860. We never experience any of the "air escape" problems mentioned or "canola seed escape" problems altho I have heard of the prior problem.
Last difference I am aware of--the later 1895's (and I believe 1890's) went to 8-bolt hubs all the way across the drill (main frame and wings) for simplicity sake.

By now you have no doubt purchased a drill, wondering what you got and how you like it. I think they do unquestionably the best job of seeding and seed placement (if you have superb straw and chaff management to eliminate hair-pinnig) but we just simply couldn't put up with the maintenance issues anymore and went back to a hoe-type. Hope this was of some help.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

Thanks 8850.
Yeh we ended up getting a new 1890, we came across a good deal so snapped it up. We bought it during seeding so only planted our last crops with it but after putting it over 1000acres we are very happy so far. The only thing we would like to do is put some weights on for better penetration and cutting.
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

be careful with weights. If the disc is in the ground and the gauge wheel is pressed to the soil, no amount of extra weight will help cut residue, it will just cause compaction and take extra fuel to pull. Also remember, that the faster you drive, the more weight you will need. If the discs are in the ground at a slow speed, it doesn't mean they are correctly penetrating at higher speeds.
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: Difference bet JD 1860 vs 1890

That is all true andy, I don't think we need much just a bit on each wing mainly incase we plant dry.
We are thinking of planting some crops on wider rows this will also help, with half the openers lifted it gives greater weight/opener. Canola 15'' Faba beans 15 or 30''.
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