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Old 03-01-2013, 10:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Case IH 950....tips or pointers?

Hi everyone,

So i just bought myself a very late model case 950 corn planter, 12 row vertical fold with liquid fertilizer. Was told it rolled off the line just as they finished with the 950s so supposedly it had alot of the 955 updates done to it. Anyway, its a one-owner machine, shedded all its life since new and rebuilt 2 years ago. It has the Early Riser 2 monitor. Anyone got any tricks or tips that one should know when running one of these units? Things to be aware of or watch out for?

Thanks a bunch!
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I bought a 955 in November. I have no advice on actually planting with it (I'm a complete newb when it comes to Cyclo-Airs), but I'm itching to put it to use. First things first, did you get a manual with it? If not, do it now. These things have a rather steep learning curve. "Rebuilt two years ago" doesn't mean a lot to me without knowing how many acres it covered; it wouldn't hurt to take everything apart and inspect for wear. Make sure the discs are still sharp and the firming points aren't wore too much. Check the seed tubes for wear, they'll get a hole in every place they rub against something else (even another seed tube). Also, take the tubes out of the sensors and blow air through them to make sure they're not plugged with anything. Make sure the sensors are clean, too. I found that spiders like to make nests in them.

Mine was in really good shape, but had been sitting unused for several years. I replaced the drive chains and a couple bearings that were out, but the most work I did was rebuilding the closing discs. The discs themselves were still good, but the bearings that the arms ride on (attached to the seed boot) were all out. I also replaced all the pins that hold the arms to the spring guide, and several spring guides that had the holes wore out. You don't want any slop in the closing discs.

I don't know if yours has a ground-drive for each hopper or not, but the 955 only has one drive for both hoppers. The guy I bought mine from said the drive would slip at times. I don't know how to keep it from slipping, except for making sure all the chains and bearings are in good shape. Mine had been replaced with a hydraulic motor, but there's no automatic speed control on it so I'm going to start fresh with a Rawson Accu-Rate system. It will probably cost more than what I gave for the planter, but will be totally worth it.

Good luck! I want to see pics when you get it working, we can compare notes.

Last edited by okpanhandle; 03-02-2013 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm the same way, i know next to nothing about it except what i've seen for myself on the unit and what i've read. I don't have the manual yet, but there is one that comes with the planter. Actually i'm hoping for two, as there is a john-blue squeeze pump on it and i'd like to know what the gear ratio speeds are. It was rebuilt two years ago and i'm told it did about 1000 acres that year then was in the shed for 2012. I know for sure that i need at least one new seed tube, it appears to have been rubbing against a hydraulic hose and someone tried to patch it with electrical tape.

All my guage wheels look to be pretty good (i assume you're talking about the sharp inside edge that runs against the opener disc being bad?) I checked all the row that i could reach and nothing seemed to have any play in it, the wings were too tall to reach however.

Not sure on the drives, but i'm fairly certain that both of my seed boxes have their own drive from the wheel at the end of the wing. Not 100% but pretty sure. Seems kind of silly to me to not have two seperate drives, if you were turning a 90 degree turn in a corn, there would be an awful lot of stress on the inside shalf, chain, and sprockets, i would think anyway.

Do you know anything about liquid fertilizer? I know the common rate is 5 gals, but I'd like to apply 10Gals of 6-24-6 if its possible. I've heard ppl say no way and other say they've never had a problem with it. Most of my ground is heavier but there is lighter stuff too. Maybe someone else has thoughts on this?
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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IMG_2195.jpg

IMG_2196.jpg

These are the two i got when i first called the dealer
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks like a good machine. Yeah, you want the gauge wheels to just contact the opener discs when they're in working position. They're not too hard to reshim if needed.

A couple things I forgot to to mention: check for broken/worn out bushings in the row unit parallel arms. The bushings in mine are okay, but the holes in the arms themselves are beginning to wear out. There isn't any side-to-side slop yet, but the row units do move fore and aft a little. I'm just going to run it this year, but next year I'm going to have replace the arms or figure out a way to rebuild them.

Check wheel bearings, too. I was fixing flats on both lift-assist wheels and found bad bearings in one. I'm surprised it made it through the 60 mile journey home from the auction site. I'm glad I caught it now, otherwise I'd probably have bigger troubles in the field.

Mine came with the factory liquid fertilizer setup, but the previous owner took the tanks and squeeze pumps off a long time ago. The manual has rate charts, but I don't know if it matches up with the John Blue pump you have. We've always used a hydraulic centrifugal pump for starter.

We apply starter in-furrow, and not more than 8gpa. We use low-salt formulations, too. I don't have any experience with 6-24-6, so I can't say how much to apply. I would think you could apply 10gpa with those coulters, though, as long as they're in a 2x2 setup.

Here's mine at the auction site:


We had to play with it as soon as we got it home:
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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DON'T make turns with the planter in the ground!!!!!I run a 950 16 row ft. fold,used mainly for custom work.Started with JD 7000 but couldn't buy parts fast enough to keep it going and wanted the hopper deal for the custom stuff.The row units will outlast the JD almost double.The 8 r 900 I had I usually planted 4-6000 ac./yr.The most with the 16 is 10900 ac/yr.nearly all dryland.The disks will last 4500-5000 in notill,closing about 8000.The arms on the 16r about 25-30000.I put Aus.Daybreak openers on it at 50000 ac.and have about 60000 ac on them,put my first brg in last year. They have a 26" single disk on them and are built like a tank.At the time they were 2000 per row.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice unit! Did you get the extra drums with your planter? I'd like to get a pair of bean drums for mine, do you have any idea what they're worth?
I'm going to go over it pretty thoroughly before planting time, and change anything that needs it, it'll only be doing a few hundred acres a year, but i don't need to have any down time. Looks like my john-blue was added afterwards, but the liquid is put on in-row with the seed. The no-till colters are just what they are. Sure would be nice if my folding sections folded inward a little more like yours, i'm a little concerned about fitting through fence posts.

Boss: wow thats alot of acres!!! how have you found the row spacing to be on the fields you plant, i was told before to expect the spacing to not be 100%, cyclos were more of a populations planter...or so i was told anyway. I knew what i was getting into.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I got the drums, but I don't how useful they'll be. They are:

2x 36-hole corn (one a new style with dimples between holes, the other without)
2x 36-hole popcorn/sunflower (one has been squashed)
2x 144-hole acid delinted cotton/small soybean
2x 144-hole milo (but one has 0.072" holes, the other 0.100")
2x 36-hole unknowns (no part number to be found, but they look like corn drums)

The thing is, I had only planned on planting dryland milo and possibly sunflowers with it, but my sunflower drums aren't for small oilseed flowers and I need a 36-hole beet drum to get the population low enough for dryland milo. I priced new beet drums recently - $535 apiece. I haven't done any shopping for used drums yet, but I'm thinking I'll just bite the bullet and get new. I'd hate to spend the money to have used ones shipped, then find out they're out of round or something.

There was a 950 at the same auction, and I think all the drums for both machines got mixed around before the sale. I wish I would have paid more attention to them at the time.

About your wings, you might be able to shorten the support brackets to make them fold in more. Mine have been welded on; I thought they just broke at some point, but now I'm wondering if they'd been shortened. I'll have to look again at it.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'll have to check on the wings whenever it gets here, a little more in-fold would be nice.
Yes i'm not sure on what to do about soy drums. called the local dealer today and they quoted me 1355$ for one and there was another with different holes was 763$. Either of them x2 is very pricey. I think i'll rattle the bushes for a while and see if i can't find some used ones. Wish mine had come with a good selection of drums like yours, even if they are kinda mis-matched a little. Do you know, will drums off a 955 work on a 950?
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Whoa! Those prices are stupid. I would think there would be enough used or salvage planters around to find some cheaper soybean drums. Drums from the IH 800 through the 955 are all interchangeable, so that should help widen your search. CaseIH's online parts catalog can help you compare part numbers.

Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Parts Search and Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts
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