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Rogator boom tip fold outs

9K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  pfl 
#1 · (Edited)
Just got a 1254 rogator on Monday, had it delivered on Tuesday and have been working on it off and on to get it ready for spraying. Problem I'm having is the boom tips will not fold back in. Started out they wouldn't fold out either but they seem to be working good now but when you go to fold them back in from field position they will not move. I can hear the hydraulics load the motor a bit and the cylinders start moving but they will not retract the tips back. All you have to do is have someone give it a lite push on the end and then they'll both go back without any trouble.

Just wondering if anyone has any advice. Looking at the parts diagrams I see there are check valves in the cylinder. Possibly one sticking maybe?? Also I don't see a dedicated relief valve for them. All other functions work perfect and everything reacts relatively quickly so it's not a pressure problem I don't think unless it's a pressure supply problem from the valve. It's building enough pressure somewhere though to slightly load the motor up. You can hear it when you press the fold in switch.

Thanks

Ryan
 
#3 ·
A flow reducer or restrictor can do this. Bad cylinder piston seals can also ad this issue if the flow restriction is set low enough.

When you fold out, the cylinder is using the "push" end which has full fluid displacement. When you fold in for road transport, the cylinder is using the :pull" end and has the rod displacing a fairly large amount of fluid which reduces the cylinder's effort.

Next time you are at the shop with it, fold things out and unhook one of the cylinders and put a pair of hose to a tractor and fold it in. If it all goes well, it eliminates the mechanical and pretty much narrows it to the hydraulics. But I would look for some flow restriction in the tip fold lines.
 
#4 ·
Booms are 100'. I've been folding them in and out when its rested on the rack like the manual days so they have a bit of a upwards rise to them. Seems to make no difference as to position though. I don't believe its bypassing the seals. Haven't been able to feel any heat on the cylinder yet although it hasn't been run for long like that either. Been thinking about it this morning and I think I'll try activating the solenoid on the rack manually just to make sure its opening all the way. Will trace the lines back as well and make sure there are no flow restrictors or restrictions in the line.

Its at the shop now actually. Spray tested it last night and the pump is leaking around the nipple on the output side. Looks like a real pain to get all of that plumbing out of the way just so I can get the pump off. Someone's trues to patch seal it before with some form of hard pipe sealant. Didn't hold though for some reason. Got a pin hole leak that it sprays out of with the pump on.

Thanks

Ryan
 
#6 ·
Didn't work on the booms today at all. Focused on pulling the pump this afternoon. Managed to get it all out without to much trouble thankfully. Problem came from pump cavitation I believe. Nipple on the output side of the pump was worn through the threads and leaking out. There's only 2 or 3 good threads left in the pump housing so probably looking for a new pump or housing at the very least.

Ryan
 
#7 ·
Talked with my local rogator dealer today and he said he's ran into the same problem before. He said usually as they're used they will loosen up and work as they should. Was going to work on it yesterday but hydraulics didnt function when everything was unhooked. How/why that affected it I'm not sure. Lots of safety features that surprisingly still work as they should on it so suspect it was protecting itself from something. Went to move it the other day after putting water on and I had the outside throttle activated. Everything went dead and it took me a few seconds to register what was going on. Dawned on me though pretty quickly thankfully. Would've been sad trying to chase that one down and then realizing what was wrong lol.
 
#8 ·
Reason the boom hydraulics wouldn't work was the diverter valve on the pressure washer valve block was pushed in rather then out. Hydraulics function again now.lol.. Boom tips are still sticking a bit. If I shake the boom a bit with the boom fold cylinder it will go back on it's own now though. Hopefully if I keep greasing it and working it, it'll loosen up and work perfectly.

Product pump is all back together now again too. Hopefully test it in the next day or two. Have one spot to weld by the boom breakaway, a hydraulic oil change and then it should be good to go fingers crossed.
 
#10 ·
Reason the boom hydraulics wouldn't work was the diverter valve on the pressure washer valve block was pushed in rather then out. Hydraulics function again now.lol.. Boom tips are still sticking a bit. If I shake the boom a bit with the boom fold cylinder it will go back on it's own now though. Hopefully if I keep greasing it and working it, it'll loosen up and work perfectly.

Product pump is all back together now again too. Hopefully test it in the next day or two. Have one spot to weld by the boom breakaway, a hydraulic oil change and then it should be good to go fingers crossed.
Yes greasing the booms frequently where they hinge with make a huge difference , mine get alittle sticky when they aren't greased consistently(in the heat of the battle) !!
 
#9 ·
I always fold out my booms first and then angle the booms down before folding out the tips. And when folding up I angle booms up , fold tips. then fold in booms. If I try folding tips while the booms are on the rack my mirrors are in the way. I guess I never read that part of the manual. :)
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the replies. A little anxious to get it out and see what it will do. Haven't changed the hydraulic oil yet. That's kind of the only thing left on the list of things that need attention. Was pricing out oil and filters today. Can get the two larger filters from Fleet Guard for around 60 bucks a piece compared to 80 from agco and the two small filters near the front are over 100 each. Fleetguard doesn't not have a cross for those at all. Just debating now whether to run the fleetguard or not. Run them pretty much exclusively on every other piece of equipment we own but those pieces of equipment don't have a 10,000 dollar wheel motor either. Oil was 80 bucks a pail for the iso 100 from agco. There too no one knew for sure how much was actually needed. Book says 180 lts but that's system capacity too so subtract lines and cylinders and anywhere else that will trap oil and it leaves a bit of a question mark.
 
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