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8010 CIH combine won"t start- need new ideas!

14K views 10 replies 10 participants last post by  Jeff-C-IL 
#1 ·
I'm a older man that runs a 8010 for a very good friend of mine.
Problem-- yesterday while waiting for the truck, I shut the machine off to do a good check over. 20 min. later tried to start up and nothing, turned key, nothing then a few clicks then nothing. Now a day and half later still same thing, haven't solved it.
I'll tell you what I've done and then hope someone can tell me what I've missed.
Being older, yes I've cleaned every connection related to the starter assym.
New batts, at start of season.
Replaced the 12-24 volt relay by the batteries ,$$$$$$ had one go bad 5 years back on a new 9130, batteries wouldn't stay up, this relay regulates charging and starting on 24 volts then run on 12. Thought sure this was our problem- not-- costly guess!!!
Selinoid by starter checked and is good.
Jumper started with 24 volt power pack, connected direct to starter, starter turned engine over fine but would not start. I imagine in start mode key and computer activates other things, timing, fuel, etc. so just turning engine over is not the answer.
Took out batteries last night and charged each
checked all fuses
tried jumping with truck per instructions -no good
One thing I did notice while running a computer check on volts, was
CCM 1 2&3
battery voltage should have 18,8, I have 10.7 on all three
Key switch
voltage should be 18.8, I have 10.7 on all three
Don't know exactly what this means, but only thing out of place on all the checks I ran. Why 18.8 and not 24 or 12 something that would make sense, you got me'
Talked to to dealers with no help. These are dealers I know personally for a long time and friends in mechanics dept. they just didn't no.
On the 9130 battery problem, it was solved by one of you members on the forum. Dealer was blank on that one also back then. New machine, fought it threw most of corn harvest in Iowa!!!! SAD!!!
That's all I got, sure would and will appreciate any help. Thanks, Gary PS, I can usually master about anything but this ones got me stumped!!!!
 
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#5 ·
Is the problem a no crank or no start issue. If its no crank check for power at intermediate start relay by engine. I know you said it checked out but could be intermittent. Much cheaper than 12-24 volt swap relay. I would put a volt meter at starter large lug. Should read 12 until you try to start then go to 24. If it doesnt check the fuses at the swap relay. If you hook up the jumper cables wrong you will blow the fuse on the swap relay.
 
#7 ·
We one time had one with a whole mess of intermittent probs, I think starting was one, along with the pto brake and unloading auger, it was a douche connection on the bottom of the cab just in from the ladder kinda under the buddy seat

Dont know if it will help but if all else fails take a peek, the pins had burned up
 
#8 ·
My 07 8010 had the gear on the end of the cam slip and it wouldn't start. Took the cover off on left side of engine and you could see where it was supposed to be. Loosened bolts, slid it back to where it was supposed to be tightened them and it's been good since.
It slipped when dad was running it and started running rough and I think it threw codes. Can't remember for sure as it was a few years ago. He shut it down as a precaution and it wouldn't fire back up.
Just a thought.
 
#10 ·
Engine wont crank and battery voltage is low as i understand it. I would consider that one of the batteries has a poor internal connection. Problem would only show up with load on the battery, a battery can measure 12v with no load but be a big resistor when put in series in a 24v start system.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Get a voltmeter and trace voltage. Start at the batteries and measure voltage at the battery terminals, at the starter relay, and at the starter while trying to start the motor.

I don't care HOW complicated of electronics there are, a starter either gets voltage and spins or it doesn't. There is the 24V complication here, but its still just voltage. Tracing where you lose the voltage will determine where the problem lies.

My guess is you have on of the following:
1) Battery problem as above...voltage will measure low at the batteries.
2) a bad cable somewhere from the battery to the starter solenoid (find where there is a large voltage loss from one end of the cable to the other
3) a bad starter solenoid (Input will have 24V voltage, output none)*
4) a bad starter. If you have 24V at the starter motor itself and its not spinning.

* Make sure the starter solenoid is getting signal to start...24V at the S terminal
The "signal" flow is Key --> controller CCM2 --> K-23 --> K-36 --> K-38 (12-24V) --> M29 (starter solenoid)

If you want to check voltages at the 12-24V relay...the following voltages (all to ground) should apply in the RUN position (not start)
1) 12V at the 30, 30A, & 51 terminals
2) Ground at 31 and 31A

The following voltages (all to ground) should apply in the START position when attempting to start the motor.
1) 12V on 30, 31A, 51 and 50A (coil)
2) Ground on 31
3) 24V on 30A & 50
 
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