New to a 2388. Tips, parts advice wanted - The Combine Forum

 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
2388driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: South East South Aus
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
New to a 2388. Tips, parts advice wanted

G'day all.
Have got a 1100 rotor houred 2388 Exclusive I've bought. Is a 2005 model. Has a 2052 39ft up front. MAV chopper on the back. Has a Jd atu and wiring harness in her already and will chuck my 2630 and receiver on the roof. Would like to grab gps signal from Jd receiver to afs screen to make yield maps. It's been serviced to be harvest ready by dealer I'm getting it from. Have a good local Case dealer with plenty of 2388s getting around locally so dealer will and does know a bit about them.

Would like to know what parts should I be getting hold of to keep in the shed as spares?? What should I be keeping an eye on. What preventative maintenance tips have guys got. Operating tips also welcome. Machine has genuine 1600 eng hours and 1100 rotor hours.

Will hopefully put 300 ish hours on this year in Wheat, barely, faba beans, Canola and a bit of Lucerne early next year.

Fire away with tips, must dos/donts, operating tips and any helpful advice.
Cheers PJ

2388driver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 01:02 AM
Senior Member
 
stuck in the mud's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SW Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 434
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Keep an eye on the bushings, if they get cracking & loose, you will quickly have major problems.

I had several of these and probably replaced chopper bearings on all of them, I believe you can get a greasable one (yours is an 05 probably has grease fittings)

stuck in the mud is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 01:19 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 91
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Make sure you grease the hydro coupler on a regular bases.
Last gen farmer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 02:08 AM
Senior Member
 
SWFarmService's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Regent, SW North Dakota
Posts: 6,941
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Quoted: 1759 Post(s)
If ya just spend some time getting familiar with them they are very simple and easy to learn

Probably the number one thing to pay attention to is the shaker shoe bushings, definitely the number one week spot

The drive chain for the clean grain elevator is undersized for that machine so if your doing good corn I recommend oiling it daily and keep the tensioner bushings and idlers in good shape and in good alignment

The unloading auger swivel loves grease and peek around it from time to time to make sure there is no cracks, especially where the cylinder pushes it

The electrical wires in the hopper on some of them were poorly done so make sure everything there is tied up nice

That year has the awesome rotary screen but it probably needs a little more attention so make sure everything is tight and smooth, them screens are very expensive so just treat it like glass

When the combine is not in use be sure to clean out the hopper, crap builds up in the worst places and are very prone to rusting out

Don't go nuts greasing the auger bed clutch and the clean/return clutch. Don't be to liberal with the sheeves either

Pay attention to the oil level in the rotor gearbox

Watch for ware on the rock beater chain


Things to keep on hand, rotor belt, 50 chain, 60H chain, (I believe most bearings on that machine are the same) so get two for the bottom of the clean grain elevator. Air filters and fuel filters just in case, generally the first filter to plug is the one down on the side.

I'm sure I will think of more but this is the top of my head. Very good combines, with a few modds they are incredible, if ya want to know a list of worth while updates I can get ya a list

God Bless America
SWFarmService is online now  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 05:24 PM
Senior Member
 
2388h's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Washington State
Posts: 642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
My 2388 has 1500 sep hours and is an 04. Keep a seperator belt I am on my third but still have original rotor belt on. Look close at the spreader gears I have done them and the bearings on mine at about those hours along with shaker bushings. Use high quality grease I have always used case high pressure. Keep a header lift switch on hand I went through 3 in one year one time. Change the throw out bearing on the fan drive every year. Check the rod on the tensioner for the hyd pump off the hydro that's about the hours it will be about ready to break. Ask questions and if I think of more I will let you know
SWFarmService likes this.
2388h is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 07:23 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central Sk
Posts: 1,419
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quoted: 347 Post(s)
Pay attention to what guys are saying about shaker bushings.

Ours went out around 1400 hrs. Started ticking a few days before and didnt know what it was, but when a sieve dropped and i did a search i soon learnt it was a common maintenance item.

Broke a few rotor belts, water pump around 2000 hrs. Rest of stuff is normal wear items and adjustments per manual. Do you have a manual? If not then get one. I see lots of posts that are answered by opening the operators manual.
kenmb is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
2388driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: South East South Aus
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Cheers fellas. Keep the info coming. Shaker bushes seem to be a maintenence hot spot. On advice from the red salesman i think changing bushes might be an annual or bi annual must. I think he said every 700 ish hours. But will definetly keep an eye on them

No corn here SWFS. Im in south east South Australia (desert!!) But thanks for the info. Ive watched your thread re modifying herritage cases and plenty good info there. First drove the old mans 1460 back when i was 8 yo.

Assuming that there will be an operators manual in the cab but if not will get one and will get workshop book too.
Wondering if a bit of fuel pump tweeking is required with the chopper and big front? Dont want to comprimise reliability. Will hopefully pick her up next week if i can get out of the sprayer. Will have a month or two to go over it lookong, learning and checkong before a mid november start to harvest.
SWFarmService likes this.
2388driver is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 03:32 AM
Senior Member
 
SWFarmService's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Regent, SW North Dakota
Posts: 6,941
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Quoted: 1759 Post(s)
This is just a size bigger much more refined machine than the 1460, if you remember much about it you will find its like riding a bicycle

There use to be alot of late 90's 2388's running around here running 36' heads cutting 50 bu wheat back then and got along rather well so I think you will be fine plus the later 23's like your talking were pretty well everything the 2588 was minus the new stickers

I think since the later 23's were equipped to carry a 12 row 22" head weight shouldn't be an issue, if it don't have a weight package on the rear you may want to consider one but I don't think there is any bulletins on the finals or front axle for the large head but it wouldn't hurt to check with the dealer on that

God Bless America
SWFarmService is online now  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 10:51 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central Sk
Posts: 1,419
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quoted: 347 Post(s)
Have an 04 2388, didnt tinker with the fuel pump but was not happy with how it did not have much torque to put through a wad of weeds when doing peas, would plug the rotor instead. Unhooked the waste gate and totally different machine now, dont think the rotor plugged since but there have been a number of times the engine pulls down to 1600 rpm and pushed the wad through, crossing fingers likely helps too. Put a boost gauge in and watch it quite a bit to know what engine load is in addition to rotor or engine rpm, usually running around 22 psi when everything is going right.
kenmb is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 01:18 PM
Senior Member
 
2388h's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Washington State
Posts: 642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
My 23 has the fuel screw juiced a turn and that really wakes them up, no detrement to the engine either.

2388h is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Combine Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome