Gleaner f2 sitting up - The Combine Forum

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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-02-2012, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Gleaner f2 sitting up

Guys, I live in south Ms. and have been searching for a used gleaner f2 combine. I ran across a f2 and L2 that have been sitting in a barn since 1990. I read up as much as I could before making an offer on the f2, the L2 was too large for me to transport. I looked it over for hours, the grain header that is on it is trash, but I will be combining corn so don't need it anyway. The combine has 600 hours on engine and 520 on separator. The cylinder bars look new, elevators are shiny, all belts look new. I rolled the engine by hand and it was free, it has the 4 cylinder turbo diesel. The fuel tank was still full of fuel. I paid about half what the machine is worth for scrap metal so I could not pass it up. I figured if it was a total loss I could scrap it and get some of my money back. I will only have about 100 acres of corn to combine so its size is perfect. Starting work on it tomorrow, changing engine oil, water, and fuel before trying to start. I have the user manual and service manual and a lot to learn. Any advice before I try to start it up.

Thanks, Ty.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 01:07 AM
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Check for mouse damage in wiring. Also rubber hoses could be old and deteriorated. Watch for any anti freeze in the oil when you drain it.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Got all the fluids changed and everything looked great. Hooked up the batteries and had no power in the cab. Shorted the starter solenoid and the engine rolled over great. Can't find any problems with the engine but the wiring is in bad shape. Going to install mechanical oil and water temp gauges tomorrow, bypass the wiring harness, and crank the engine. Wiring looks fairly simple, I am an electrician by trade. Hope that's the worst problem I have.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-05-2012, 02:10 PM
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check the main circuit breaker on the engine frame. 60 A Klixon. Mice damage is ususally related to overhead. Harness pretty stout from eng to door console relay.
Make sure the auger swing valve is centered - they are prone to rust and partially pressurize the auger in or out - out is noticable in will heat your oil. ALSO grease via grease needle and or cable lube the roll out swivel section on the unloader.
A good idea is to drill an tap for zerks like the late models are equipped.
Check the engine dampner plate bolted to flywheel - these are prone to crack expecially if the engine mounting bolts are loose - 4 at the back and two on the front. There is a jackshaft for the bin unloader under the front engine crank pulley.
On this idler there is a grease fitting most miss. Bin unloader blet adjustment is a follows - with lever in cab all the way up the lever should with all you can pull just touch the roll pin in the quadrant - if lever does not come up that far on cannot put enough tension on the belt - belt drives from the bottom of the pulley - now loosen the belt max lever down - adjust the bottom trough to push the belt UP to just touch the drive pulley - now adjust the UPPER belt guide DOWN to pust it away from the pulley so as to make a loop around the drive sheave.
There is a filter - or was one - in the tank bottom - have to stick hand in tank to access. Pops off bottom drain in bottom of tank. IF it is a hydro - good - if a variable speed run at high vs by pushing reel lift lever forward and listen and feel for vibration - smooth is good , vibration means input shaft bearing down.

These are the things that pop into mind.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-06-2012, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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First of all thanks for the advice, has helped a lot. Finding a f2 in south Mississippi has been tough. I was afraid this machine had been sitting up to long to save but in true gleamer style the 3rd time the engine rolled over it cranked and ran perfect! I replaced every hydraulic hose before I left the barn it was stored in. Tried to move it without doing so but every time I replaced one, another one would break. I got it home this afternoon. I still have some small issues. I am going to have to completely rebuild the air conditioning. This machine has the optional self leveling header valve mounted on the outside of the cab, it's completely froze up, needs replaced. I also want to replace all the belts. Any info on where to buy them would be great, not many places done here to choose from. Going to pressure wash and start greasing tomorrow. We are not going to try and use the machine this season so I have plenty of time to get ready for next year. We left the L2 ,that was sitting beside it, for now. Can't stand to see it go for scrap. We have plans to go back for it too. Thanks for the help!!!
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-07-2012, 12:10 AM
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Any pictures?
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-07-2012, 04:39 AM
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Try AGKITS.COM for you belts.They sell Q power belts and have a easy to read diagram for all gleaner models,free shipping within the US.I just recieved some for my n6 and the quality seems good,service was excellent.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-07-2012, 08:30 AM
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Monthly Specials - Abilene Machine, Inc.

This place is having a 10% discount on combine belts this month. Located in Kansas.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-07-2012, 12:41 PM
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Hey Ty, I'm from Glen Allan ms, up in the dealta just south of Greenville. We ran Gleaners from 56 to 92 for custom harvest use, ran A's. C's G's M's L's and the N's, never had the f's though. Now I have a '10 R76 with a 40 ft. dyna flex and love it. The F's are pretty comparable to the G I think that was a really good machine in it's day. I'm looking for an L if cheap just to have, not run at harvest. So, if you don't want it I might!

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-07-2012, 07:49 PM
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ty, any pics of the F2 and the L2 we will talk you into?

are either ones hydrostat equipped? what tires are on them?

it sounds like you got a great combine for a great price!

as far as parts, any agco dealer should be able to at least order parts in. find the right part via is a great asset if you dont have, or have the wrong year of parts book. To determine the year of the machine, the serial number off the tag near the battery will be your friend.

if you are shell-shocked by the prices of something (wont take long to find something overly expensive) abilene machine is a good source. the belts they offer are also decent.

good luck!

Our farm purchases a combine soley on its ability to do an excellent job in all of our crops, while being fuel efficient, reliable, ruggedly built, and easy to repair. That is why we choose a Gleaner.

Last edited by gmguy; 07-09-2012 at 02:17 AM.
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