220 Swather Lost Drive to left wheel - The Combine Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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220 Swather Lost Drive to left wheel

Hi! Last fall we had a this windrower blow a hose to the left drive wheel. Swather swing back sideways down the the hill. Was shut off immediately. We pulled the wheel motor and it turns normally. The planetary is not seized or failed. Up on replacing the hose we cracked the fittings and found no oil flow to the motor.
Inspected all linkages to hydrostatic pump and all intact.
Any one experience a similar situation?
Iím sure there are reliefs or cartridge valves in the hydrostat but am not sure which is which


Last edited by KBF; 06-23-2019 at 09:07 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 07:21 PM
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Your system momentarily ran dry and you damaged the main hydro pump. The half that runs that motor will have to be repaired or replaced.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 07:40 PM
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I’m not experienced with that model but most units of that vintage have a similar architecture. Yes, there are usually four relief valves for the wheel drives, one for forward and the other for reverse function for both wheels. They should look like large hexagon fittings on the main pumping unit close to where the wheel motor hoses attach to it.

It would be hard to determine which one is for which function without a detailed flow schematic, but you don’t need one to inspect them all. On some models the relief valves have a cone plug held in an orfice by a spring that can get pushed far enough out of the orfice that it’s tip of the plug gets out of the orfice.

As I recall you can remove these relief cartridges from the pump by unscrewing them, then check the inner surface of the removed part to see if the tip of the cone is inside the now exposed orfice. Chances are you will find one of those cones out of place. Put that relief cartridge in a vice and remove the hardware on the end of it to loosen the spring, and set the cone back in the proper position with its end in the orfice and then reassemble it all.

It’s also possible that a wear-plate has shattered inside the hydrostatic pump itself with what you describe. But if a wear-plate is intact but just scored, the system would likely shudder or pulsate when the bad wheel is under load. If the wear-plates need resurfaced or replaced (if you can get them) it’s a very intimidating and difficult assembly for most do it yourself mechanics.
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Last edited by Haystack; 06-23-2019 at 07:49 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 03:17 PM
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If there is case drain filter, I'd start by checking it out. If you had an underlying issue building up to a catastrophic failure, there will be evidence in that filter.
Cut it open, if its packed full of chunks or brass filings you may have a pumpset/motor/ hyd system flush etc in your future.

Is the affected motor driven from the first or second pump from the drive input?
I'm just wondering if the pump piled up and broke the coupling between 1st and 2nd pump.

Keep calm and combine on....
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Good advice Anvil. I have looked at a break down of the pump. I was told all the header functions still work. By looking at the pump break down, if the connector is broken, I would have no drive to the outboard pumps mounted on end of hydrostat. So now Iím leaning towards pulling the relief valves and seeing if thereís something obvious there.

There is no odd or awful noises coming from hydrostat area while unit is running.
I had pulled the filter and dumped it and found a bit of undesirable stuff but not to the degree I had experienced with other windrower hydro failures.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 12:56 AM
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Is there like ZERO flow??
Even if a relief is stuck open you will still have a considerable amount of oil flow when the pump is stroked one way or the other.... just a severe lack of pressure.

Let's back up a bit here...

are you assuming the hose blew from a spike in pressure??
Or was it old, cracked, chafed, deteriorated??

Keep calm and combine on....
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Anvil, as for condition of hose I donít know. Itís my father in laws machine. Every time I go look at it I get more info.
They put on new hose and had a lines at motor just cracked to bleed off some air. Very little oil came out. Just a dribble.
Today I pulled those relief ports out. Springs still functional. I was surprised to find such a soft spring. Valves all move freely in ports. No binding.
Ran unit today, the wheel does turn and attempts to drive. Working hydrostat and steering wheel back and forth you can walk the machine a bit. But trying to turn on the spot or go full forward or back it will not do it. There were no odd noises from pump area. I check for any physical binding of the propulsion arms off the pump and I see nothing mechanical that should be causing a problem. Iím afraid to know what a new hydrostat would be worth. Might have to pull and send to the local hydraulic shop.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 07:50 AM
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Is the oil flowing through the new hose properly? Had one made and some how they new end cut into the inside of the hose, filling in the opening of the new fitting. When it was crimped, it closed off almost completely. Just a thought.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 10:16 AM
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One final thought before you pull the pumpset..... is that perhaps it is just air locked... is it possible to raise both drive wheels [safest to raise both] and just let it free wheel to let the air flush out.
The charge pump is supposed to do this but if it's a bit lazy perhaps its having a hard time doing its job.

Jack it up, start it and actuate the drive... it may take a minute of slow going but the air should be flushed out and hopefully it will work properly.

Keep calm and combine on....
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:04 PM
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What anvil said, had to do that once on a 4000.

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