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Massey 220 fuel solenoid

2K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  kevlar 
#1 ·
Question. Fuel solenoid will suck in when trying to start engine but will not stay engaged when the key is in the on position. Although there is power to it when the key is in the on position.
 
#3 ·
How many volts are you getting? The fuel solenoid on my 220 has acted up off and on for a couple years. When it first started doing it it seemed like it would kill the machine at night as soon as I turned the lights on, turn them off and it would work. I am also running auto steer in mine and so between that and running the AC on high on warm days plus lights it seemed like it was drawing too much power. I ended up having to get my alternator rebuilt by the local auto electric outfit. They are a pricey alternator new, $800 or more if I remember correctly. I ran it down to the repair shop and they put it on the test bench right away and he rebuilt it. Took him probably 45 minutes or so and when I went to pay the bill, $40 parts and labor, wow, I guess that's why every time I go in there there is a stack of alternators and starters to rebuild and a steady stream of customers, excellent business. Anyhow back to the fuel solenoid, to get through we made a wire hook and attached it to a line above the solenoid that held it in the on position, when you shut the key off you would have to unhook that wire to shut machine down. I'm wondering if you are just pulling the machine out of storage if the battery is run down some if you can get it going like that to get it charging and see if the problem is the solenoid itself or a charging issue. Since I got my alternator rebuilt the problem has mostly gone away although it has done it a couple of times to me intermittently.
 
#4 ·
Probably the fuel solenoid itself. I'm assuming it's a 3 wire solenoid. If that's the case it has 2 windings inside. One's a pull in winding and the other is a hold in winding. The pull in sounds like it's working good but hold in is not. You can check it by using a multimeter and checking resistance between the wire with power to it when the key is on and the ground (probably black). If it's O.L. then it's shot. If it's ok (several ohms) then it's probably a wiring issue.
 
#5 ·
Ya we did put a new solenoid on it. It still not holding it up. The red wire reads 12v on a multi meter but does not light up a test light. That seems odd to me. We can get the solenoid to hold up if we send power to it directly from the battery.
 
#6 ·
So then there is bad wiring somewhere or a relay that has bad contacts inside that is creating a large voltage drop. That would not allow enough current to operate even your test light. If you can find an injection pump relay, switch it with another one that that is the same. I always use a non critical one like a lighting relay.
 
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