Questions on 585R - Page 2 - The Combine Forum
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 10:52 PM
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I would also highly recommend the zaps...probably the cheapest upgrade with the most benefit in my opinion.
For what machine, crops, conditions?
Well hes asking about a 585r which is what i have as well but i think the zaps would be advantageous in any lexion, havesting any crop in any condition... it just feeds the cylinder much smoother... the original aps caps just try spank the crop into the cylinder...

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 10:57 PM
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Well hes asking about a 585r which is what i have as well but i think the zaps would be advantageous in any lexion, havesting any crop in any condition... it just feeds the cylinder much smoother... the original aps caps just try spank the crop into the cylinder...
Can Sunnybrook use that as a testimony?!

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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:59 PM
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So by the sounds of it, you bought the machine in question?? Good job!

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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So by the sounds of it, you bought the machine in question?? Good job!
I may have forgotten to mention that detail. Not so sure if this purchase deserves the Good Job congrats yet or not.
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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On mine you just push the button. If yours doesnt open completely there is a shock on the clean grain auger that helps lift the auger up and with the auger being connected to the hopper id suspect that shock doesnt have any pressure left.

I would also highly recommend the zaps...probably the cheapest upgrade with the most benefit in my opinion.
That is what the book says too. Perhaps swinging the auger just shakes things enough to get it moving.

I removed one end of the gas strut, and it is far too tight to move at all by hand, so I disconnected the linkage that pulls the bubble up auger, and tried it by hand. All the way down, I have to lift the auger with some effort, at mid stroke, if I give it a small push, the cylinder will move it the rest of the way on its own, and at the very top, I have to push it into place, as it drags slightly. Does that sound about right, or should the cylinder be lifting it off the bottom all by itself?

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 01:29 AM
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The gas cylinder takes all the weight off the bubble up auger. It should lift with very little effort.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 08:18 AM
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I am going to say the auger could require 20 pounds to lift, with cylinder. Unhook linkage, lower auger, try the button and see if it folds.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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I am going to say the auger could require 20 pounds to lift, with cylinder. Unhook linkage, lower auger, try the button and see if it folds.
Will do.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 09:51 AM
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While you have your bubble up auger unhooked check the flighting at the bottom. I usually build them up in place with my little mig after I turn the battery disconnects off. I would also take the breather off the bubble up gear box when you are there and see if there is any oil or grease in there. I just add a combination of grease and gear oil in there if needed.

With your conditions JVW you should consider putting in a sunny brook impeller and tm6 top sieve. They are a big help with canola and the impeller will save you a lot of grief in tough canola. If you yank out the impeller build up a bigger v at the back of the concave and weld in a knife on the dogs tongue at the back of the impeller to help spit stuff going into the rotor. One of the biggest problems is splitting the crop to feed the rotors at the area of the impeller.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:35 AM
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Can Sunnybrook use that as a testimony?!
For a small fee 😆

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