mph that you cut soybeans at - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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mph that you cut soybeans at

I'm wondering what people's realistic, real life ground speed is at cutting soybeans? read about some people going 5.5 all day long, and I'm wondering if that's a stretch or if some folks just set there standard lower. . I stay around 3.8 to 4.3 in nice conditions, with a knife that's tweaked and we'll maintained. . lexion 580 and 40 ft Fd75. . .

it's going to be muddied up now after last night's rain, what tips do u macdon poeple have for setting them to cut on sticky mud, and what speeds can u hold when cutting on wet ground and what issues to watch for.....

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 08:23 PM
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Your harvest speed can very greatly depending on header size for your combine how good of a stand you have along with other variables but yes I have cut at 5.5 before on beans all day you just have to pay more attention and keep a eye on your losses to make sure you are not throwing away money

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 08:29 PM
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That seems like a good speed to me, Little guy.

The only thing that can help the Macdon when the soil gets wet is to lighten the header some more with the main springs. Other than that, just wait for the ground to dry. Even when the header doesn't push mud, the stems don't cut near as well when they are damp.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 09:47 PM
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I stick to around 4.5-4.7mph with a cr9070 and 40ft fd70 (single knife drive) right now. Stalks are a little green yet so they arent cutting the easiest and any faster will be a jagged cut. I run 5.0mph otherwise when they get dry.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 10:20 PM
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I've heard guys cutting 7mph before but can hardly believe they care about doing a quality job. With my Airflex I have set a 5mph speed limit for myself and if the knife sections are dull or terrain difficult I have to slow down further. Wet ground doesn't affect me because I just raise my air pressure and make knife basically weightless, plus I tilt header back and if really bad feeder faceplate back too. The Macdon is trickier, I had my FD75's set as light as I dared but still often had to quit because of pushing at night or risk bending reel bats. Around here at least one FD70/75 gets written off from bending on a hard-head every fall, maybe you don't have stones but that's a risk that goes up when you drive faster.

So I wouldn't say you are out to lunch on your speed. You only get one chance to cut a bean field, especially when it's wet!

Too bad you don't have a 585 instead of a 580 right now...

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 10:56 PM
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-lighten the springs
-make sure wing droop is as even as possible side to side
-roll back header angle as far as it maintains acceptable head loss
-take off the large skid plates and their mounts, all they do is push leaves
-set your auto header height so that it is only pressed down one full number from above the ground to on it
-cut at an angle to the rows so it cleans off the whole knife and doesnt push between rows
-auto header height sensitivity/reaction time maxed

my speed varies between 4-5.5, I find the the height of the bottom pod has atleast as much to do with header losses as speed, havent found much loss difference in that mph range
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 11:11 PM
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Anywhere from 2.5 to 4.5mph, really depends on losses and conditions. A properly tuned FD70/75 will cut beans at like 7+mph in good conditions if you really wanted to push it, but the number one thing for improving yield is slowing down the combine!

Cutting against the ground in really wet shitty conditions will expose every flaw in your header setup. We have some heavy sticky clay soils and do a ton of soybeans every year so this is what I've learned over the last 5 years with 40'macdon FD series headers.

Wing balance needs to be set as close to perfect as you can, or very slightly biased to smile. As mud builds up the wings get heavier, this will give you more margin of error and hopefully reduce dragging at the ends.

Wing float around 1-1.25 on the float wrench. Keep it as light as you can without the wing wanting to drift upwards into smile, and so that it wants to rise up over mud instead of pushing.

Cutterbar poly should be in good shape all along the header.

Completely remove all skid shoes on the wings, including the bracket that holds the outermost skid. Mud builds up on top and packs against the draper, which pulls it in.

Center skid shoes set to either hole 2 or 3 depending on how bad it drags. This will allow the autofloat to begin working sooner as it gives a lower point of contact for the center section, which will allow you to run a lighter float setting.

Autofloat! Make sure you have it and that you've done any calibrations, run as light as you can. Set it so raise speed is nearly maxed and lowering speed is almost minimum. Response time/delay to minimum.

Adjust the float cable on the slides at the front of the float control box so there is no slack at rest, or even slightly pretension the cable. This will make the potentiometer more responsive to small movements and thus make the computer react faster.

Adjust the draper seal all the way along the cutterbar so that the draper edge is slightly deflected. This will help keep mud out from inside the drapers. At most you want a credit card gap.

Put on fresh knives to reduce dragging when trying to cut tough stalks. We usually switch ours out every 1000ac of cutting per head anyways.

Make sure the bottom belly pan on the adapter doesn't drag, sometimes one of the arms gets bent down and will push mud.

Last edited by Slashnburn2; 09-23-2017 at 11:17 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-24-2017, 02:22 PM
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are you guys talking about header loss or combine loss when setting speed? it seems like in soybeans combine loss is almost non existant, and ive dug around behind a few brands, *here*

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-24-2017, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the info! . when I started on first field it was a little sticky and one end had a tendency to push leaves, then dirt. I took weight off that wing at little bit at a time till it stopped or got better, . I didn't check with the balance indicator cause I had it dialed pretty close I thought last season. but I guess wet conditions will bring out the good or bad issues or adjustments. . .
will have to tighten up the coil springs some more, I think I'm at 2 - 2.5.... . . I didn't know you can take off the mounts for the outside skid shoes..? I had skids removed but the mount caught more trash than when skids were on. . also it helped to put the wheels down on the ground at first notch to help take some weight off.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-24-2017, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Little guy View Post
thanks for all the info! . when I started on first field it was a little sticky and one end had a tendency to push leaves, then dirt. I took weight off that wing at little bit at a time till it stopped or got better, . I didn't check with the balance indicator cause I had it dialed pretty close I thought last season. but I guess wet conditions will bring out the good or bad issues or adjustments. . .
will have to tighten up the coil springs some more, I think I'm at 2 - 2.5.... . . I didn't know you can take off the mounts for the outside skid shoes..? I had skids removed but the mount caught more trash than when skids were on. . also it helped to put the wheels down on the ground at first notch to help take some weight off.
Two big carriage head bolts I believe and they come right off.

Wheels down is helping because your float setting is too heavy. First go to 1.5 on the wrench and see if it helps. If needed go lighter.

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