MacDon FD75 wing float issues - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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MacDon FD75 wing float issues

I have a 2017 FD75 45' header. I bought it used and went to set spring pressure and wing balance. The right side has a frown to it. The problem I am having is the left side is rigid. It wont move up or down. I had a guy come and look at it that has used and worked on macdons for years. He cannot figure anything out. We moved the wing balance all the way both ways. We loosened the bottom pivot bolt and sprayed it with penetrating oil. The bottom locks r both down and the wing locks r unlocked. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks for the input!

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 11:25 PM
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Where you are adjusting the balance, just to the right, there are 2 bushings with grease nipples, grease them lots. Put some blocks under cutter bar just to the inside of where it flexes, see if the weight of header can get it to move, if so get it moving and grease more. Those bushings will seize up.

We actually just dealt with one like that today. Worked fine when we put it away, was greased, but still seized on us.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bjtjjl View Post
Where you are adjusting the balance, just to the right, there are 2 bushings with grease nipples, grease them lots. Put some blocks under cutter bar just to the inside of where it flexes, see if the weight of header can get it to move, if so get it moving and grease more. Those bushings will seize up.

We actually just dealt with one like that today. Worked fine when we put it away, was greased, but still seized on us.
Needle bearings, they get sticky.

OP, when looking down the knife bar from the side, is it straight, or is one or both wings fore or aft of the center section?

How heavy is the float set right now? Check both sides with the wrench they should be pretty close.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response!! When u look down the cutter bar, it looks to be straight fore and aft. Spring pressure we set at about 1.5-2 on the wrench. The left side was alot heavier so we matched it to the right side. Both grease points took grease on both sides. I guess I dont remember how those 2 pivot points are off hand. Do they just have a pin and clip thru there? We put blocks on the outside and then then just left of center pivot and weight of head did not move it. I used it today, but it is still froze up. Any ideas would be appreciated!!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Just enough View Post
Thanks for the response!! When u look down the cutter bar, it looks to be straight fore and aft. Spring pressure we set at about 1.5-2 on the wrench. The left side was alot heavier so we matched it to the right side. Both grease points took grease on both sides. I guess I dont remember how those 2 pivot points are off hand. Do they just have a pin and clip thru there? We put blocks on the outside and then then just left of center pivot and weight of head did not move it. I used it today, but it is still froze up. Any ideas would be appreciated!!
That's good. The cutter bar should be straight or both outer tips slightly ahead of center. If the wing tips are back of center the header will bind up. If it's back of center usually it means someone caught a rock and bent it. Saying you bought it used made me think of that.

Sounds dumb but check that the wing locks are not binding in any way. They should be able to flop around a little inside their slot.

Does the wing move whatsoever? Or is it just totally locked into rigid?

Measure the length of the vertical rod going to the top linkage. They should be pretty close to the same side to side. Check that both smallish springs are in place.

The way the header works is that the top link (bell crank) transfers wing weight down through the rod to the center section/adapter and float springs.

The "wing balance" cross bolt is kind of like a fine adjust, the length of the vertical rod is like a coarse adjust. So if that vertical rod is too far out of adjustment you'll never be able to get the wing to move, because it's unbalanced.

There is a white line sticker on the frame behind the arm, when the header is locked into rigid i think it should line up the top of the bottom arm. The owners manual has adjusting procedures and if not then look for the dealer assembly manual on the website they go through the procedure.

Last edited by Slashnburn2; 08-16-2019 at 01:36 AM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 11:40 PM
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Check your pea auger, it will seize up on the spline that it slides on.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate the feedback. Thank you! The vertical rod was longer on the left side, so we lengthened the right side. The reason we lengthened the right side, was because there was a bolt hitting the frame. Hard to explain, but by lengthening the right side, the bolt cleared. Now they r close to the same length. We have some wheat left before I get it back to the shop to look at it again. The left side is completely locked up. Doesn't go up or down. When I had the shield off on top, we didn't notice any binding where the rigid rod/flex rod goes for lock and unlock. If anyone has any more ideas let me know. Otherwise when I look at it again I will post what I find out.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 12:53 AM
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There is a “breakable fuse” under the header. Protection for the header and combine should you catch something with the header.

If broke you replace it and with header down rock the tilt back and forth until you hear a Big Bang. The arm and rubber bumper get bound up when the fuse breaks and nothing works right until they fall back into proper position.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Just enough View Post
I appreciate the feedback. Thank you! The vertical rod was longer on the left side, so we lengthened the right side. The reason we lengthened the right side, was because there was a bolt hitting the frame. Hard to explain, but by lengthening the right side, the bolt cleared. Now they r close to the same length. We have some wheat left before I get it back to the shop to look at it again. The left side is completely locked up. Doesn't go up or down. When I had the shield off on top, we didn't notice any binding where the rigid rod/flex rod goes for lock and unlock. If anyone has any more ideas let me know. Otherwise when I look at it again I will post what I find out.
Take the shields off and leave them in the shop. With the header in flex, watch the top links and see if it moves at all, or if it just stays stuck.

The bolt hitting the frame, is it the longer cross bolt that you turn to slide the clevis inboard or outboard? Or was it one of the bolts on the clevis itself? Bolt "c" or "s"?

Check underneath the header, see that the lower arm isn't broken where it bolts up to the frame of the header in front. Blue circle. Or the arm of the CA25 adapter that this mounts on to, sometimes it can break there.

Remember that when you change the length of the rod, you also change the wing balance. They shouldn't necessarily be exactly the same length, it depends on the options of the header. When setting wing balance it's usually better to go by feel on the wrench instead of trying to figure out what the number is. In normal or dry conditions, you kind of want the wing to bias down. In wet conditions, you kind of want that wing to stay up. Attached is the adjust procedure for the vertical rod.
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Last edited by Slashnburn2; 08-16-2019 at 01:26 AM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Twix View Post
There is a “breakable fuse” under the header. Protection for the header and combine should you catch something with the header.

If broke you replace it and with header down rock the tilt back and forth until you hear a Big Bang. The arm and rubber bumper get bound up when the fuse breaks and nothing works right until they fall back into proper position.
This is what I mean by my previous post. If the bolt is hitting the frame it's likely that she's broken and the header frame has pushed back against the adapter.

If you need to you can still keep running by pushing the header down onto the ground a bit, and jimmy the tilt fore/aft and side to side till it pops. Then you'll be good again till you get too vigorous and it acts up again. Sometimes it works fine, others not so much.


Last edited by Slashnburn2; 08-16-2019 at 01:08 AM.
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