found the letter
To whom it may concern.
I am writing this letter in regards to our Agco DT275B Which we have put 675 hours on.
Let me start off by saying that when the tractor is running properly and not in the shop, it is a very nice tractor. Still not as nice as a Fendt, but its definitely the best for the money.
Now I have had plenty of issues with Agco tractors in the past, with an 8610 white and a DT200 but decided to give them another chance because we had no choice. No way we were buying a CNH, and no way we were buying a Deere, so it was Fendt or Agco/Massey, Fendt was out of the budget. I saw how the tractor was different in every aspect and thought hey, maybe this one will work. I was really pulling for AGCO but that tractor continues to prove me wrong(keeps breaking).
So below I have my list of repairs performed on this tractor which has caused extensive amounts of downtime, and later on some things that cannot be changed, but would probably be of interest to your engineering department for the next breed of High HP Row Crops.
Repairs In the last 300 hours in no specific order.
• Replaced DEF Sending unit. The recalled one was already replaced, this was the updated one that had to be replaced.
• Replaced DEF Dosing module
• Replaced rear window. I simple turned the handle to latch it and it shattered. Other local farmers have had this issue too; many have had issues with the doors. Go out and feel one they are very flimsy. I know of at least 5 incidents where the doors were ripped off by wind or flew open going down the road.
• Door Catch. Replaced it twice and still have a hard time getting the door to seal tight.
• Replaced Muffler/Fuel Tank heat insulation.
• Replaced Hood Shocks
• Replaced Strobe light (ran for 20 hours before it quit spinning)
• Roof Leaked rainwater and continues to leak
• Coolant valve on heater core in cab roof was replaced due to leakage
• Bolts for the drawbar wear plate have been replaced multiple times.
• The tractor would dive for ditches at high speeds and some components for the steering/hydro system were replaced to fix this.
• High pressure Transmission Filter Switch failed
• 2 of the rear hydraulic remotes have been replaced.
• Replaced the rear latch on the left side shield twice (now with the updated one)
Now as for ongoing issues that have not been solved.
Low Oil Pressure Error Code E100 in cold weather, I’m told there is new software for this.
Headlights/interior lights flash on and off randomly, sometimes with flashers, sometimes without.
There are also some new issues that we have been waiting on the dealer to look at.
Front Wheel Assist kicks on and off randomly and rapidly when driving down the road with it in automatic mode (where it should kick out and stay out at low speed).
The windshield wiper randomly works and randomly doesn’t work.
The parking brake sometimes engages and the light turns on, sometimes engages and the light doesn’t turn on or flickers, and sometimes the light just flickers and the brake isn’t engaged at all.
The Air filter restriction light comes on in rainy weather, but there are no restrictions and the filter is new.
The Steering pressure light comes on as well when turning obviously. Now I was told that back when we had it fixed for its ditch diving that there was too much pressure going to the steering system. So It makes me wonder if they forgot to update the software to compensate for the lower readings.
The Cab suspension appears to be bottoming out (optiride plus) not due to large bumps but it seems as though it forgets to level off, or is slow to react and you will end up just driving through the field with the front of the cab sky high and the rear of the cab bottomed out.
The final issue is ongoing and is extremely hard to explain without somebody riding in the tractor.
First off it should be noted that I have the parameters set to lug the engine down 12% bringing it down to 1850 RPM where the peak power is made. When running the tank spreader I always use pedal mode and always use the cruise control which is set at the maximum speed. Now, when the tractor is accelerating to 33mph, pulling a hill or any other time peak power is demanded it usually runs fine and pulls down to 1850rpm and stays there. However at random times it will “fall off” (loose power) and rev to 2000-2100 RPM and just slowly accelerate and sometimes slow down, you can really feel the power loss and hear the power surges through the turbo. It will slowly bump around at those engine speeds while not gaining much ground speed and then it will randomly pull the engine down under 1700rpm, again with what feels like a reduced amount of horsepower and then it will slowly climb to 1850rpm where it should be and continue to accelerate. It always does this when cold, which I had assumed was normal. But it will also do it after the tractor has been running for a while and randomly do it thereafter. I have changed the fuel filters multiple times with no luck. Air filter is also new, nothing that the air box could suck up to restrict airflow and there are no trouble codes. It sometimes makes me wonder if we are missing out on horsepower as well. I ran a 933 Fendt on our tank spreader and on the same grade that the DT275b pulled at 22mph the Fendt pulled at 26mph. Then on the same grade the Agco pulled 16mph, the Fendt pulled 18.5-19mph. Now our Agco does have radar and the Fendt did not, so it could just be that. But that Fendt sure did pull a lot harder than the DT275b.
Things I would change about the tractor.
• First off is the rear windshield wiper. It helps, but doesn’t really do much. For those of us pulling tankers we need to see out of the top couple inches of the windshield for backing up and also need those top few inches for unloading silage wagons. The rear windshield wiper leaves the top 5-6 inches which makes it very difficult to see out of the rear window.
• BIG FENDERS. I am aware that the Massey’s have large fenders as an option. How about painting some of those orange and offering them to us current AGCO owners? Or did I miss the big fenders, because I cannot find them anywhere. The second our tires get some mud on them (dual 480/80R50s) the rear window becomes plastered as does the exhaust side mirror rendering them useless. It would be nice to have large fenders like the Fendts do. I don’t understand why more companies in the industry don’t understand the need for large fenders.
• Your owner’s Manual. It’s better than your previous ones, but still lacking a lot of information. Nowhere does it mention what types of fluid to use in the front planetaries and rear final drives. The capacities were also way off and had to be adjusted accordingly. And I still have always wondered why you cannot put every single error code in the book. I thank you for putting some, but if you are going to put some why not put them all in the book. That’s one less call I have to make to the dealer, and 10 more minutes of their time they could spend figuring out how to fix the issue rather than figure out what the code means. Now on a tractor that doesn’t break often, this would not be a problem, but when you have a tractor like ours which has its daily temper tantrum of error codes, 10 minutes here and there, adds up a lot. And on a side note, I do have to wonder if the people making the manual communicated with each other because in some places it lists a DT290b and in other places it lists a DT300b, I mean come on really, do you not proof read them.
• On the topic of catalogs. Are you considering making your online parts books work with anything other than Internet Explorer? The only reason I still have Internet Explorer on our computers is for Agco Parts Books. I know many other farmers who enjoy FireFox and Chrome much better as well.
• Throttle Settings. I run our DT275B in pedal mode, full time. When I use a preset RPM setting (A or B), then cancel it. I can no longer use the cruise controls as it kicks the tractor out of DTM mode when a preset throttle speed is used and have to reactivate the DTM mode in order to be able to use the cruise controls again. Let me tell you, When you are running a tanker and have to go through that extra step every time it gets annoying. I just don’t understand why it is the way it is. Maybe I’m missing something but on a Fendt you can use preset throttles, pedal mode, and cruise controls all day long in any order with no extra steps but I suppose that’s why you pay more.
• The rear window. Why must it seal so tight to the fenders? Since we bought this tractor ive only been able to open it once, and then that was the time when I latched it, it shattered. The reason being, is it has been winter. The window is always frozen down, or there is a chunk of mud on the fenders which restricts the window from opening. Now, were always going to have mud, but if we had big fenders the mud wouldn’t get up there to be in the way, however we cannot have them. So thus, the rear window is rendered useless unless we don’t drive our tractor in mud or don’t let it sit out in the cold.
• The Battery Cover. Where do I begin, I guess I will begin with just leaving it off of the tractor since it will do that itself. First of all, if I ever need to put hydraulic fluid in it I have to open it up. But I can put transmission fluid in it much easier. Well which one gets put in more often? Hydraulic fluid. If anything I would lock up the transmission one so that somebody doesn’t accidentally fill it up because the tractor is low on hydraulic fluid. Yes only trained people should be servicing it, but let’s get back to the real world, that’s not how it works all of the time. Now the key part is irritating, but the cover itself is even more irritating, it’s a major pain to get it lined back up so that it will latch, and it has to be removed for transport. I just don’t understand why it has to be made so complicated. I can understand having a latch on it. But it would be nice if the key part was optional. An update kit with simple knobs would be greatly appreciated.
• The toolbox. Again with the key. It’s a hassle. And the overall size of the toolbox renders it fairly useless except for holding the PTO shafts.
• The seat. It hits the trim panels. Really? I would think that you would engineer it so that it doesn’t hit other panels. It pinches the wiring harness too and that will cause problems down the road. So yes I shouldn’t put the seat back that far, which I don’t, but my point is the seat shouldn’t be allowed to go back that far in the first place.
• The hood. I realize you need a tight seal for where the air flows through the radiators and into the air filter, but I think it would be more important to be able to open the hood in the winter instead. With the seal that is on it, the hood freezes down solid and cannot be opened during the winter months.
• The lights. Boy do they aggravate me. There is a lot of buttons to push to turn them on which is perfectly fine by me. The part that irritates me is that every time I turn the flashers on and the turn them off I have to push every single button again and it gets very old after a while and we haven’t even used it for hauling silage wagons yet where we are switching between field and road lights every few minutes.An update for this would be greatly appreciated if it is doable.
• The fender controls. Don’t you think they are a tad high? I’m 6’ 2” and can barely reach them, there’s only two other people on the farm who can comfortably reach them and some that can’t at all.
• The door. Its flimsy, it doesn’t latch well, it doesn’t stay latched, it doesn’t stay open, it doesn’t seal well. It’s a pretty sad excuse for a door if you ask me. I understand you want the visibility, so eliminating that post is necessary for more glass space which gives it an edge over the Fendt, but at least in a Fendt I can touch the door without worrying if it will shatter. I have also used Case IH Puma doors which are the entire length of the tractor and they are much more solid, however the rest of the tractor is not. This also brings up the ventilation issue with these big doors and windows. In the older series agcos, or in a Fendt, there is at least one practical window that can be opened and run all day open, in the event the A/C fails or the operator wants some fresh air. These new ones do not have that luxury, opening any of them and then moving the tractor puts you at a 99% risk one of them will shatter. I understand the increase in visibility but until you can engineer the windows and doors to last when I cough on them, Ill take a 5 post cab.
Last edited by durallymax; 05-04-2011 at 01:55 PM.