TV140 Bi-Di 3 point hitch HELP! - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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TV140 Bi-Di 3 point hitch HELP!

I have a 1998 TV140 bi-directional tractor. I recently removed the loader and wanted to use the 3pt on a snowblower.
My problem is, the 3pt arms will go up but they WILL NOT go down. It seems i have tried everything but I can't get the arms to go down.
Things I've tried:
- Applied weight to the arms to "help" them down
- Taken off both electric solenoids on hydraulic valve to inspect. Both solenoids activate when the corresponding switch is pushed. Both solenoids have very close to 12 volts when activated. The plungers inside the solenoids look good.
- I have taken out the plungers on both sides of the hydraulic block to check for problems. Both plungers look like new. Both were free of dirt and were very clean.
- The cylinder that lifts the 3pt arms is external so the only way I have been able to lower the arms is by removing the hydraulic hose from the cylinder to let the oil out. It is a single acting cylinder.

Other notes:
- The tractor knows with height of the arms as the height indicator changes on the dash when the arms are raised.
- The oil flow knobs on the corner post are both in the max position

Anybody have any ideas on what I am missing here? I've called the dealer as well and they are running out of ideas too.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 12:40 PM
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There is a calibration process in the book somewhere. We had issues with the arms creeping up. Calibration helped a bit. Eventually that stopped working and we replaced a potentiometer. Then the main controller failed, so the dash was flashing constantly. Since we don't use the three point, we just disconnected the darn thing and took the lift arms off. This was on a 145 but I believe the three point and transmission were the same as the 140 we had.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 12:42 PM
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It has to be something internal. Be careful things DO go out of whack in there and you can end up busting the top of your housing. Don't ask how I know this.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2017, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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I tried doing a calibration but I can't complete it because the arms only go up and won't go down.
Any other ideas?
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-04-2017, 09:47 AM
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Can't remember bidi very good but think there is dial for speed up and speed down .
Put in slowest setting , get in tractor push switch down while shutting engine down , repeat this few time and look if hoses on cylinder gets less press.
My 0.02 cents
It happens when guys run tractor and push those buttons without knowing it , take fuse out when not using arms.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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So I'm still fighting with this 3pt hitch and looking for some more opinions.

I have confirmed that both solenoids are good
Both plungers that the solenoids act against are good and working properly
All hydraulic lines are good

I was able to get some pics of the internal valve block for the 3pt hitch. This valve body is mounted on top the transmission right underneath the cab which makes it very hard to get to. There is two hydraulic lines connected to it and it is held on with 4 bolts. I am contemplating taking the valve body off to inspect it to figure this out. I would like to remove it so I can remove the lower spools to see inside and inspect the parts. Attached I have a few pics/schematics of the internals when it is in neutral, raising, and lowering. My thinking is that the #4 load sensing valve is somewhat stuck. But am I thinking right? The arms will go up but will not come down. Thoughts?
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg TV140 3pt Valve Block Neutral.jpeg (226.4 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpeg TV140 3pt Valve Block Lowering.jpeg (297.1 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpeg TV140 3pt Valve Block Raising.jpeg (312.8 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5241.jpg (612.3 KB, 17 views)
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 10:41 PM
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You May be on track looking into the load sens valve but also if something is sticking in the load check valve may cause problems...
#2 Are you getting full stroke on the spool and #3 are you getting correct pressure to the entire 3 pt valve block from the hyd system. If not it may not be fully stroking the spool... and may not activate the load check.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 11:40 PM
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Can you tell if the valve is opening when you activate the button on the joystick? Maybe it is stuck in the up position. As Grumpie pointed out, we have had issues with the knob positions inside the cab on the wall. Play with them. I can't remember but I know we have fought with them. We have a 3 pt hitch on either end so there are 2 sets. I know if the arms are in a fully up position, it keeps the button from lifting higher. We have added a coupler off the valve block located along the chassis wall at back and put in a ball valve to turn off the circuit/lock out the 3 pt. hitch. We use the 3 point hitch hydraulics to raise and lower the apron of the rock picker. It has been very handy as you can control that with your thumb and move the tractor back and forward at the same time with that hand.

I know we can't have the 3 point hitch fully up and then lock it with the ball valve. It has to be just slightly down from the fully raised position in order for us to use the circuit for the rock picker. I am not sure if there is a pot alongside one of the rams or exactly what that creates this nonfunctioning issue. We are using the front 3 pt. hitch circuit. I don't know if that helps you fwiw.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 08:16 PM
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Does the bi di have external switches for hook ups many times they by pass all the other systems. Have you tried applying power to the solenoids with a jumper or external power source or tested for voltage at the connector
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farmshop View Post
Does the bi di have external switches for hook ups many times they by pass all the other systems. Have you tried applying power to the solenoids with a jumper or external power source or tested for voltage at the connector
Yes, both solenoids have approx. 11.8v when the switches are pressed.
I also used an external wire directly connected to another battery to bypass the switches and activate the solenoid but that didn't do anything either.

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