Bourgault 3710 review - Page 45 - The Combine Forum
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post #441 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 12:29 AM
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We change blades every year on our Deere’s. They are 28$ a piece and brand new and sharp to start every year that way. Are the BG that expensive guys try to run them for 3,4,5 years? Cheap easy way to make drill seed well is new discs.
They are 38 a piece. Bigger reason is that a smaller diameter blade will cut through straw better so I don’t particularly want to change them. Might see if I can source 18” ones with the proper bolt pattern maybe. Mine were all brand new to start this past year.


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post #442 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 12:39 AM
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I cut short and find the more straw going through the pro-chop the further it spreads, I have been able to get 40'+ most times. The Elmer's harrow is very good at making a mess into something workable, it even spreads canola chaff!

As for the drill settings I have not run a BG but fairly high down-pressure and seeding a bit deeper helps, as well as slowing down. I'm not sure sharpening is good, might it take the temper out of the blade? They should self sharpen a bit shouldn't they? Mine seem to stay sharp but maybe I haven't taken them much past the bevel. Seems easier to just change them instead of sharpening or even adjusting the scraper in my case.

Couple pictures of straw management for me. The canola was done by a turbo-chop there but pic kinda shows what the Elmer's harrow can do. I would typically knife fertilizer into that before hitting with the drill. I did have a field of oat stubble I simply could not direct seed into because of hair-pinning this spring. Wiry straw, hard ground and 7.5" spacing simply was too much and had to hit it with the pro-till.
That’s what I figured. My issue is that one of the biggest reasons we went for disc drills is that I heard from several people that gophers, far and away the biggest issue on my farm, can not thrive long term in tall stubble. Toying with the ideas of strippers for my cereals, but even without them we are able to cut our straw pretty tall. But our biggest issues with hairpinning were in those tall stubbles so I dunno. I’d think the harrow would just make a mess of those tall stubbles. Still kinda want one just for the canola stubbles, although our germs was generally pretty good in them.

Also, being in a drier area than Manitoba, we’re trying to preserve as much snow as we can (although I’m not really convinced on how much that does given the frosts that accompany the snow).


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post #443 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 01:09 AM
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Does anyone ever get their discs ‘sharpened’ or re-beveled? On any disc drill. And if so, do you do it yourself or hire it done? I still got a fair bit of learning to do about hairpinning with these things, first place I want to start is by letting these discs wear down so they aren’t so big, the BGs say they can go wear down to a 17” disc with all the adjustment in the scraper but I wouldn’t want to do that without being able to re-sharpen the discs each season.

Speaking of hairpinning, what kinda systems are guys running outside of seeding? I know there’s the stripper guys, which I am considering, but it seemed my hairpinning was the worse in cereal straw that was cut 15-20” off the ground so I’m a little confused about how that’s supposed to work. Particularly after you’re done running a grain cart all over the field, there’s straw laid down everywhere. Cant really harrow it. Working on seeding between rows.

For guys not running strippers, what is your program in these heavy straw situations? I know SW runs an Elmer’s, are you doing that on all acres? Do you cut all of your straw really short? Is anyone using a high speed tillage unit for any reason? How wide are you spreading straw with the combine? Even with the prochop I don’t feel we are getting a full 40’. Guys with prochop, are you leaving your counter blades all the way up or doing lots of adjusting?
Why do you think a smaller diameter disk will have less hair pinning? We usually find once a disk is wore down more it plugs more frequently.
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post #444 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 06:37 AM
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Does anyone ever get their discs ‘sharpened’ or re-beveled? On any disc drill. And if so, do you do it yourself or hire it done? I still got a fair bit of learning to do about hairpinning with these things, first place I want to start is by letting these discs wear down so they aren’t so big, the BGs say they can go wear down to a 17” disc with all the adjustment in the scraper but I wouldn’t want to do that without being able to re-sharpen the discs each season.

Speaking of hairpinning, what kinda systems are guys running outside of seeding? I know there’s the stripper guys, which I am considering, but it seemed my hairpinning was the worse in cereal straw that was cut 15-20” off the ground so I’m a little confused about how that’s supposed to work. Particularly after you’re done running a grain cart all over the field, there’s straw laid down everywhere. Cant really harrow it. Working on seeding between rows.

For guys not running strippers, what is your program in these heavy straw situations? I know SW runs an Elmer’s, are you doing that on all acres? Do you cut all of your straw really short? Is anyone using a high speed tillage unit for any reason? How wide are you spreading straw with the combine? Even with the prochop I don’t feel we are getting a full 40’. Guys with prochop, are you leaving your counter blades all the way up or doing lots of adjusting?
Never had the discs resharpened. This spring with it being dry the bevel of the new discs was gone at 1000 acres seeded. I have had the same experience as you with cereal straw and believe it or not soybean straw. If not enough material is going through the chopper/ spreader just doesn't work worth a **** and it just pukes out a 15 foot wide chaff row. The main two things that I do is seed between the rows like you mentioned and setting my depth 1/2" deeper than the "perfect" depth. The soils that I farm usually aren't prone to crusting and I'm not using a hoe drill (obviously), so I haven't been burned by seeding on the deeper side with the exception of millet which is about the weakest seedling of all time.

On a side note, a more diverse crop rotation seems to have helped me more than anything
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post #445 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 06:41 AM
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Why do you think a smaller diameter disk will have less hair pinning? We usually find once a disk is wore down more it plugs more frequently.
Mostly based on what I’ve read on here from the more experienced disc guys. A smaller diameter disc has a higher attack angle and will cut better. That’s the theory I keep hearing anyway.

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post #446 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 06:41 AM
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Why do you think a smaller diameter disk will have less hair pinning? We usually find once a disk is wore down more it plugs more frequently.
I had an engineer tell me once that the angle of a smaller disk with the ground was better than a bigger disk. He might have been BS'ing me as he was a JD engineer.
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post #447 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 06:44 AM
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Never had the discs resharpened. This spring with it being dry the bevel of the new discs was gone at 1000 acres seeded. I have had the same experience as you with cereal straw and believe it or not soybean straw. If not enough material is going through the chopper/ spreader just doesn't work worth a **** and it just pukes out a 15 foot wide chaff row. The main two things that I do is seed between the rows like you mentioned and setting my depth 1/2" deeper than the "perfect" depth. The soils that I farm usually aren't prone to crusting and I'm not using a hoe drill (obviously), so I haven't been burned by seeding on the deeper side with the exception of millet which is about the weakest seedling of all time.

On a side note, a more diverse crop rotation seems to have helped me more than anything
The seeding a little deeper part is another I keep hearing, it’s something that I really need to train myself to do. Been struggling with it so far since I am so conditioned to err on the shallow side.

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post #448 of 539 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 11:43 AM
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Bean stubble can be tough to cut thru especially if there is a heavy wheat crop beneath.
I think I’m going to get some mav choppers in our machines. We spread and chop decent but I think the mavs would help even more on our 98/9770.
To me a seed firming wheel makes huge difference in wet as you can get stuff pushed into moist dirt with stubble around it. In dry springs like last 2 discs cutnit very well it seems.
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post #449 of 539 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone have any trouble with the bolts that hold the gauge wheels/packer whhels anchored breaking? The one that slides back and forth. Our older unit has been breaking quite a few. Also seem to find lots of gauge wheels bolts loosening off. Mud smith wheels also starting to fail rapidly, rubber comes off and what’s left seems to be getting thrashed quickly. Just changed all the bearing last spring in them.
I was told to use red locktight on the left hand side of the drill when installing the gauge wheel bolt.
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post #450 of 539 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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As it stands now how long does it take one person to change depth on all the seed openers(not mrb's)? Does someone have to crawl on the ground to get the front row or can they be accessed from the top or front of the machine?
1 guy can do change depth on a 60' 10" spaced unit in about 1 hour. You can stand above the openers that works best. Back row under the hitch you have to crawl in on your knees to get those.

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