What should I know about a 1730 planter? - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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What should I know about a 1730 planter?

Hi guys.

We bought a planter as we're putting in some corn this year.

It's an Elmers toolbar with a pair of 12 row 22" 1730 vac planters mounted on it. Just getting it assembled together now. Going to be a bit of a learning curve but just wondering what spare parts I should keep on hand? Any areas to pay special attention to or check? I have basically zero planter knowledge or experience.

Any other tricks or tips would be appreciated too. Here's a few pics of unloading it.

Thanks.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 03:28 AM
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What style meters does it have? OEM JD vac. will work good in corn if you have rounds or small flats, won't work well with large flats over 50 lbs. (22.68 KG) per 80K seed count, just need to set the vac. accordingly otherwise. (These would be the cell meter disks.) Two different disks are available, small corn and corn (the regular disk). Small corn works with the smaller rounds and flats, regular corn is more for medium/large rounds with seed size.
Finger meters very forgiving and run (almost) everything for corn seed size. You won't have these if planter is a vac. meter, they are 100% mechanical.
Precision vac. meters (I have Esets) about the same as finger pickup in what they handle, perhaps even better. A bit overkill if you aren't putting in much per year however. Mine were upgraded OEM meters, cost me about $150 US per row to change over. (Hence the overkill statement if doing low acres per year.) If you have these the disk will be much thicker (also no cells, just holes) and the meter has a singulator and extractor pick that the OEM doesn't. The long brush will also be split into two pieces and the shorter section can be pulled out and put into a different position.
Might be able to find canola disks for such meters if you dig around and grow the stuff, I don't, 22" might be a little on the wide side but *should* work... Others on here would have more experience with that than I would.


I have a JD 1760 planter with ME2 row units on it that I have used for two years now doing around 350 ac. a year, so far none of the opener bearings have failed but will be putting on new openers this spring yet, depth wheels need a few new bearings as this planter was well used, closing wheels I replaced when I got it. Not a bad idea to keep a few bearings of each around. Nothing more annoying than a closing wheel bearing that seizes up as it will not close the trench properly and leave a ditch. A depth wheel bearing seizing will quickly be dragging a big pile of dirt, opener bearings will do the same, and if run for any length of time the opener will wear a flat spot and need replacing, also the opener blades can crack out around the hub if running high downforce, so far have not seen one do that but others have.


How do you plan on planting the corn, are you in tilled or no-till ground? No-till will take more downforce, takes a lot more with a double disk opener (planter) vs. single disk. (air seeder) due to the way the seed trench is formed. No-till I have to be able to run up to 400 lbs. per row, hard to achieve with a 3pt. mounted toolbar style planter, obviously tilled is considerably less...


For planting corn uniform depth is very important, more so than seed spacing as studies have shown, from looking at pictures does not appear yours has firmers mounted (Keetons or the likes) and if corn is for grazing or silage not likely to be much of a factor but for grain could help, however the old planter I still have didn't have any such device and put in a crop for many years and it turned out ok in tilled soil.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:07 AM
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If it has OEM vacuum meters you can always put Deere's Pro-Max 40 disks in with the doubles eliminator and knockout wheel, achieve the same thing as Precision Esets for way less money and way less work. We ran Esets on our 1780 and would never bother with them again after trying Pro-Max 40 on our 1790.

If you want to put canola in with it you can use the RRV canola disk and knockout wheel.

Parts to keep on hand in the field usually pretty minimal. I usually carry a spare closing wheel or two in case a bearing goes out, I'll swap out the wheel in a couple of minutes and change the bearing the next morning or see if someone else can do it during the day.

I also have a spare set of scrapers, a seed tube brush, a seed tube sensor and some zip ties with me. 24mm wrench to take the gauge wheels off if you jam them full of mud.

That's about it for what I carry with me in the field.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNfarmer85 View Post
What style meters does it have? OEM JD vac. will work good in corn if you have rounds or small flats, won't work well with large flats over 50 lbs. (22.68 KG) per 80K seed count, just need to set the vac. accordingly otherwise. (These would be the cell meter disks.) Two different disks are available, small corn and corn (the regular disk). Small corn works with the smaller rounds and flats, regular corn is more for medium/large rounds with seed size.
Finger meters very forgiving and run (almost) everything for corn seed size. You won't have these if planter is a vac. meter, they are 100% mechanical.
Precision vac. meters (I have Esets) about the same as finger pickup in what they handle, perhaps even better. A bit overkill if you aren't putting in much per year however. Mine were upgraded OEM meters, cost me about $150 US per row to change over. (Hence the overkill statement if doing low acres per year.) If you have these the disk will be much thicker (also no cells, just holes) and the meter has a singulator and extractor pick that the OEM doesn't. The long brush will also be split into two pieces and the shorter section can be pulled out and put into a different position.
Might be able to find canola disks for such meters if you dig around and grow the stuff, I don't, 22" might be a little on the wide side but *should* work... Others on here would have more experience with that than I would.


I have a JD 1760 planter with ME2 row units on it that I have used for two years now doing around 350 ac. a year, so far none of the opener bearings have failed but will be putting on new openers this spring yet, depth wheels need a few new bearings as this planter was well used, closing wheels I replaced when I got it. Not a bad idea to keep a few bearings of each around. Nothing more annoying than a closing wheel bearing that seizes up as it will not close the trench properly and leave a ditch. A depth wheel bearing seizing will quickly be dragging a big pile of dirt, opener bearings will do the same, and if run for any length of time the opener will wear a flat spot and need replacing, also the opener blades can crack out around the hub if running high downforce, so far have not seen one do that but others have.


How do you plan on planting the corn, are you in tilled or no-till ground? No-till will take more downforce, takes a lot more with a double disk opener (planter) vs. single disk. (air seeder) due to the way the seed trench is formed. No-till I have to be able to run up to 400 lbs. per row, hard to achieve with a 3pt. mounted toolbar style planter, obviously tilled is considerably less...


For planting corn uniform depth is very important, more so than seed spacing as studies have shown, from looking at pictures does not appear yours has firmers mounted (Keetons or the likes) and if corn is for grazing or silage not likely to be much of a factor but for grain could help, however the old planter I still have didn't have any such device and put in a crop for many years and it turned out ok in tilled soil.
Hi MNfarmer.

It has the OEM vac meters. It came with a set of soybean and corn disks. I believe they're the regular corn disks. I haven't had my seed delivered yet so I'm unsure what size I have to deal with.

No plans for canola this year as the past two years have left a bad taste in my mouth dealing with tough green canola in the snow. Everything is going into cow chow this year.

This will be all tilled ground. It has the standard down pressure springs.

The previous owner replaced all the opener disks, gauge wheel bearings, closing wheel bearings and hex shaft bearings last spring. I'm thinking I'll order a set of opener disks, a gauge wheel, and a set of closing wheels to have on hand as I checked and there's no stock at my local dealer. Not many planters around here. The previous owner also suggested keeping a couple down pressure springs and closing wheel springs on hand.

Good eye for catching that it has no firmers. This will all be grazing or silage corn on worked ground. I have quite variable ground and can go from sand to peat to gumbo all in the same pass. Do you feel they are worth it?

Thanks for all the info.

Dan
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 09:50 AM
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If the dealer has no parts on hand a closing wheel T handle might be something you'd like to have on hand as well. I've had one of those break before too.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcalder View Post
If it has OEM vacuum meters you can always put Deere's Pro-Max 40 disks in with the doubles eliminator and knockout wheel, achieve the same thing as Precision Esets for way less money and way less work. We ran Esets on our 1780 and would never bother with them again after trying Pro-Max 40 on our 1790.

If you want to put canola in with it you can use the RRV canola disk and knockout wheel.

Parts to keep on hand in the field usually pretty minimal. I usually carry a spare closing wheel or two in case a bearing goes out, I'll swap out the wheel in a couple of minutes and change the bearing the next morning or see if someone else can do it during the day.

I also have a spare set of scrapers, a seed tube brush, a seed tube sensor and some zip ties with me. 24mm wrench to take the gauge wheels off if you jam them full of mud.

That's about it for what I carry with me in the field.
Hi jcalder.

It does have the OEM vac meters. Thanks for the advice on the Pro-max 40 upgrade. Do you figure it would be a worthwhile upgrade for silage and grazing corn? The past few times I've grown corn I just either floated it or blocked off runs on my drill so this will be a huge improvement.

I'm not putting in any canola this year but I thought 22" would be too wide of spacing here?

Think I'll copy your spare parts list.

Thanks.

Dan
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 01:51 PM
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For silage or grazing I think the standard corn plate would be fine. Won't be a picket fence stand but it'll be close enough. I wouldn't bother with Pro-Max 40 or Esets for silage.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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How does this vacuum seal look? To my untrained eye it looks good. Shows some wear on the lip on the bottom right corner of the picture. Where it would drop the seed. Not sure of terminology.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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The book is very vague in describing how to inspect the seed disks also. Basically says to do a field check and only replace the disks if the accuracy is not good. All the disks have shallow scoring on the vacuum side. Nice and smooth on the seed side. Not sure what's acceptable? I have a set of large sweet corn #A52391 disks. In the book it says they're recommended for 1500-3200 seeds/lb. I haven't got my seed delivered yet so I'm unsure of what seed size I'm dealing with. Would this probably "cover my bases" so to say?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 02:35 PM
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A52391 Large Sweet Corn disk is the same as the Pro-Max 40 disk.

ProMAX 40 Flat Disk

As far as wear goes it looks fine to me. The line on the seed side that goes to about 1/3 of the way over the holes is where the double eliminator slides along to knock doubles off. I'd be sure to get the pro-max knockout wheels installed though since using a flat disk like that you're going to be using a lot of vacuum to get proper singulation, this in turn can suck broken kernels into the holes and the knockout wheel will clear them.

The rub marks on the vacuum side of the disk are just where the seal runs, I wouldn't worry about that.

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