JD 1910 tank bridging! - Page 3 - The Combine Forum
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:56 AM
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maybe worth checking if agitators are actually moving ..... we broke one of the little cast arms that run them on the right side. when I replaced it, found so much play in the bolt hole on the agitator shaft that it wasn't actually turning them, just wobbling at the end.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 03:08 AM
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maybe worth checking if agitators are actually moving ..... we broke one of the little cast arms that run them on the right side. when I replaced it, found so much play in the bolt hole on the agitator shaft that it wasn't actually turning them, just wobbling at the end.

Thats a common problem. I drill em out with a cobalt drill and put in a larger grade eight bolt. Dont go too big though or end snaps off shaft.

Having to do this though shows what a mickey mouse affair the whole thing is. Designed by engineers in a cosy office without a clue about the real world and durability. Probably the same guys that designed IH 66 and 86 series steering setups, compare the size of those dinky little ball joints and rams to what is on todays tractors and actually LASTS.

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 03:17 AM
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Below are pics of how to pressurize the 1910 Tanks similar to the AP2 (dual fan carts). A couple different ways to mount the valves shown.

Why all the complexity with the taps? Why not go from the pipes just after the manifold straight to top of tanks.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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My agitators are in good shape, and work like they were intended too.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 06:49 PM
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How old is the 1910. We have a 1900 and had that issue in lighter crops and it ended up being the Manifold airways around the meters were blocked up so no enough air was getting in to fully pressurise box even though the gauges were still saying they were fine. One way to check would be put your barley or oats in a different tank and see if you have the same issue with that tank. If that stops the problem you might have to pull all the manifolds and meter housings off and clean out like we did and haven’t had a problem since👍🏻
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:40 AM
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Below are pics of how to pressurize the 1910 Tanks similar to the AP2 (dual fan carts). A couple different ways to mount the valves shown.

Why all the complexity with the taps? Why not go from the pipes just after the manifold straight to top of tanks.
. How else do you switch the air pressure source between the top shoot & bottom shoot??? Only other way is too swap hoses at the manifold every time you switch a tank to the other shoot? That’s not too handy is it???
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:44 AM
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My cart is single shoot. I'm seeding barley, the oats was last year . The barley is heavy, kinda dusty, and treated.

My half width handles do require a hammer, and they are slightly twisted inside. The outside runs that bridged were probably 90-95% open. Not sure if that is enough to cause bridging. Stainless meter boxes for next year. Can't believe jd doesn't use stainless!
My presurization hose goes into the side of my tank and up the ladder to the top of the tank where it is open, like in granite smashers pics. No valve though. Cobra1970 do you have 2 air lines going to each tank? (The factor installed and the one that you put in)
. In your case of single shoot you just need a hose to go from your plenum into each tank. But for a double shoot you need one hose from top shoot and one hose from bottom shoot into each valve. Then one hose going to the top of the tank from the valve. Turn the valve 180 deg to switch your pressure source from the top shoot or bottom shoot to match what shoot that particular tank is metering into.

Last edited by cobra1970; 05-22-2019 at 01:47 AM.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 09:26 AM
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. How else do you switch the air pressure source between the top shoot & bottom shoot??? Only other way is too swap hoses at the manifold every time you switch a tank to the other shoot? Thatís not too handy is it???

Lets not get too wa**y about this. We have a big fan blowing into a box with numerous outlets and a flappy thing that sort of directs the airflow to some of the outlets instead of the others. I'm a pilot and understand airflow since I die if it dont (flow that is!) and I fail to be convinced that having a tube from top or bottom of the plenum outlets will make any important difference to the pressurisation of the tank.


Ps and if you dont understand the ** at the start of my post just ask any Aussie on this forum, we tend to abbreviate. I cal it efficiency in communication haha
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 11:10 AM
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I agree OZZIE, best not to get too complicated with the piping. Another poster talked about emptying the tanks as much as possible between fills especially after a rain. I find after a rain the product settles in the tank and the high humidity changes the flow. I always recalibrate after a rain. Good idea to empty and get rid of the dust and any moisture that accumulates at the bottom. your symptoms sure sound like the classic twisted gates. IF the stainless meter housing is too steep of a price for some(5500.00 cdn) you can buy just the stainless disconnect gate and install it in your john deere housing. When I rebuilt mine the disconnect gates opened a quarter of the way at the best. Really these tanks are a love -hate relationship. Although with Good maintenance, these tanks will treat you just fine, I know guys with two year old units that are all seized up, they didn't bother cleaning them out at year end. For the record my bourgault tank bridged with 37-13 fertilizer. That is why I like pulling nh3 now. My only beef with these tanks is the bulky conveyor. I am due for the hydraulic mover up grade because at the end of the day I am exhausted trying to move it.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 12:40 AM
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. How else do you switch the air pressure source between the top shoot & bottom shoot??? Only other way is too swap hoses at the manifold every time you switch a tank to the other shoot? That’s not too handy is it???

Lets not get too wa**y about this. We have a big fan blowing into a box with numerous outlets and a flappy thing that sort of directs the airflow to some of the outlets instead of the others. I'm a pilot and understand airflow since I die if it dont (flow that is!) and I fail to be convinced that having a tube from top or bottom of the plenum outlets will make any important difference to the pressurisation of the tank.


Ps and if you dont understand the ** at the start of my post just ask any Aussie on this forum, we tend to abbreviate. I cal it efficiency in communication haha
1st of all if you think it’s a flappy thing you have never had one apart. Which I assume is true. It’s a big solid plastic baffle that blocks off the air to the top or bottom shoot. Easily can limit the air pressure to a 15% / 85% split between the top & bottom.

2nd, If you think you have the same air pressures on the top & bottom side of the plenum when the baffle is moved most of the way to the seed side for carrying only 4 lbs of canola ..... then our discussion is done here.

No way in **** will product flow from a low pressure tank into a high pressure air stream.

You must have some sort of method to switch your air source from top to bottom if you are swapping tanks from top to bottom shoot and adjusting your baffle. I chose a 3-way valve.

Unless you keep your baffle in the middle and don’t worry about adjusting airflow then yep it doesn’t matter where you take your air pressure source from.

Please stay out of the air. We will all be safer that way.


Last edited by cobra1970; 05-23-2019 at 12:51 AM.
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