Opinions on Air Carts - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Opinions on Air Carts

I am looking for a new to me air cart to go with our Concord air drill. Looking for opinions and pros/cons of CNH/Flexi-coil, John Deere or Morris carts that are in the 350-430 bushel range with 3 compartments and double shoot. Let me know what your thoughts and experiences are. Thanks in advance!

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 08:28 PM
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Have I got a deal for you!!!
JD 1910 430 bu.
Don't read the "1910 tank bridging " thread I started.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 08:54 PM
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Actually it's a pretty good cart.
The good;
Very accurate metering. I have duals on the back and it floats very well. Poly tanks don't rust! Easy to calibrate, can do 3 tanks at once with the hydraulic drive. Adjust rates on the go. If u have Jd gps monitor in your tractor already ,you don't even need a monitor (1800,2600,2630 etc).

The bad;
The half width shut off handles sieze up, poor design. You have to change metering rollers when changing products. 4 different rollers. I have the conveyor, and don't recommend it, unless you need it for peas or beans. It doesn't reach under a semi and it doesn't stand up to fertilizer dust.

I don't know how it matches up to a Concord drill. I don't have any experience with the others you listed either but you may want to look at a versatile/ezze-on. I ran 1 for 5 years and loved it. Stupid simple, well built. Only thing i fixed on it was a lid seal. VERY accurate metering! Well thought out , and dependable. Watch Ritchie bros sales in Regina, they have been selling new ones pretty cheap.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 10:11 PM
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The meters on Morris carts are fabulously accurate. We are running an older 7180 with the optional 3rd tank. Older units aren't as convenient in a few areas but the spiral fluted meter bodies are the core of it and they work very well. No change outs for changing products, just how much of the face of the meter you want exposed to the tank. I wouldn't hesitate to upgrade to a newer and bigger Morris tank if given the chance
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:05 PM
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If you are after a super simple super accurate cart the morris eight and nine series mechanical carts are what a guy wants. Never weigh anything just write in the books what sprockets you used the first year and you are good. If you have something different for a crop text a neighbor and ask him what spocket because they are all the same.
But if are looking at new, the seedhawk carts are pretty amazing at what they do and how easy they are to work with. They just need to put a couple more bends in the metal to make them look a little better. But from a operating standpoint, wow, so simple and it does everything.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:37 PM
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Do I dare suggest Bourgault?? I know they aren't on your list, but we've had great luck with them, only problems have been because of the operator. Currently we run a 4350 tank with 3 compartments and duel shoot. Can connect center, small tank to either front or rear tanks. Don't have to change anything when changing crops except sprockets. Very accurate metering, can adjust in just a few pound increments for heavier rates, and in .1 pound increments in canola. Have an old 2155 tank we still use for applying urea, and it's getting close to 30 years old and never misses a beat.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:27 AM
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Of all the carts out there I would have to say that the Bourgault is the most bulletproof tank out there. There might be a little more discrepancy on the seed runs but that can be expected with the cart having one primary line to seed manifolds. The one thing a really like is being able to seed canola down to the last pound in the tank. Of the carts you listed I would go for the Flexicoil.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:49 AM
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Put a 3430 case(3450 flexi) cart behind my seedmaster this spring. Impressed with the metering accuracy. It is the variable rate version. Doing vr fert makes the first field or two nerve wracking watching the tank level monitors go down but so far it is matching what the field totals should be. Have had several sensors go out so far this year and the dealer knows what it wants for them. If you need to adjust the air baffles make sure you get one in good shape. Mine are froze solid and will never be free unless the whole thing is rebuilt but they are luckily in the right position.

The drill I had before this was a Morris maxim with the 7 series tank. Also a very good cart. Dad has a hydraulic drive 8 series. Some shear pin issues on the auger and the valves to change single to double shoot get sticky. Was watching auction prices and the Morris carts go for probably 30k US more than the case/nh/flexi tanks. The 9 series looks great and user friendly but if price is a factor maybe not.

Edit: If looking for prices you can search auction results on Ritchie brothers easily. They have sold pretty much everything.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:50 AM
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I have a Morris 7300 and my next tank will also be a Morris. Probably the 8370 with the third tank.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millie View Post
If you are after a super simple super accurate cart the morris eight and nine series mechanical carts are what a guy wants. Never weigh anything just write in the books what sprockets you used the first year and you are good. If you have something different for a crop text a neighbor and ask him what spocket because they are all the same.
But if are looking at new, the seedhawk carts are pretty amazing at what they do and how easy they are to work with. They just need to put a couple more bends in the metal to make them look a little better. But from a operating standpoint, wow, so simple and it does everything.

100% correct. Morris ground drive is really too simple. If worst comes to worst get power to the clutch and keep seeding. I actually have never used the calibration box on our Morris cart. I just start with the chart or with our own sprocket numbers written on the side of the frame and work from there.

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