wilger end flush valve - Page 2 - The Combine Forum
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post #11 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-26-2017, 09:54 AM
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Licensed to kill - do you pull the plugs each time you need to flush your booms?



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post #12 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-26-2017, 10:06 AM
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Hypro Express end caps are junk. Under no situation do they clean out properly. At low water volumes(3 gal) they take a long time to exhaust air (1000gal). If they made something to replace them with I would do it, but they don't. Stay away from anything but a 1" ball valve and put a 90* fitting on it with a 12" hose to direct the solution away from you.

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post #13 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-26-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Express end caps are the answer IMO. no monkeying around with ball valves AND they bleed the air out. Only way to go IMO.
Thanks everybody it sounds like the wilgers are not the answer. I did wonder about the express end caps but do they help at clean out time?
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post #14 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-26-2017, 10:32 AM
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X2 on the hydro express end caps being junk. And are no better at all on the boom ends collecting crud. You still have to remove them to do a perfect flush and your kidding yourself if you don't.

If someone built a ball valve that would still screw in like the express end cap we'd change in heart beat.

Those damned clips and plugs you need needle nose pliers to get out are a real PITA.
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post #15 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-26-2017, 11:51 AM
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Licensed to kill - do you pull the plugs each time you need to flush your booms?
No I don't. Not necessary and would be a complete waste of time IMO.
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post #16 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-26-2017, 04:14 PM
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Express ends caps. I put them on last spring. I never pulled them apart to rinse at all this year. The end of the cap is the last nozzle so there is no dead end for chemical to sit. Boom shutoff is almost instant now too.
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post #17 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 10:26 AM
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Attachment 129633
Has anybody used these boom flush valves? How good do they work? Or is there something better?

WilgerIndustries can you tell me if these would work on a JD with 1" poly booms?
Hey lion,

Hopefully a lot of the poor feeling towards the valves were from the initial design back from pre-2013, I try to get as much feedback as I can for them since the change-overs and pretty well all the guys say it is a vast improvement, BUT maybe they are just being too nice to my face. Haha.

There are two versions of them, for a 1" boom, you'd be using #25176-V0.
It has the adapter down to 1" NPT-F. The NPT-F thread would be the same as any 1" NPT, so not sure why it would need to go further than bottoming out before it tried to seal...(guessing it would have been mighty clear if you had been using it without the 1" NPT adapter, as the main valve is closer to 1-1/4" NPT)

Initially when they were released, they had a different core design, and we gave the option of Buna-N o-rings (cheaper option for those who wanted it) as well as the VITON.
Given the swell that Buna-N O-rings were getting, it made the valves near impossible to turn afterwards. Big design change was made to the core to alleviate that, as well as back in 2012-13, we made the standard to use ONLY viton o-rings (much less o-ring swelling).

As far as if they do stiffen up, I usually tell guys to spray a bit of liquid silicone up the spout at the beginning and turn the valve a few times of the season to help it turn like it did from day one. If the seal really dries out, might need another does mid-season.

Not ragging on Hypro at all, but the end caps are a step to a better solution, but not really 100% there yet. Only some of the air will aspirate, and unless you are actively purging your air with booms sticking upward, it wouldn't aspirate enough to clean the air of boom. We've been working on a design for (like almost getting on 3-4 years now...too long), but it seems like more and more engineering time is being put into recirculating boom functions, which would remove the run-on caused by air, so the design scope has been revised a number of times since start.

In short, the Wilger boom end flush valves initially had issues with fit/turning overtime with use, but should be way improved (I'd almost say borderline perfect, as I maybe 1-2 calls a year on them now, and more often those are from guys using the older model/make).

As as check if you are using an older model, if you look into the spout (from the bottom), you can easily determine which version you have:
Rev1 (Trouble-maker) - Spout looks like a spider-web layout. These were offered in Buna, which caused all sorts of troubles.
Rev2 (Improved) - Spout looks like an open spout with one O-ring stabilizing fins down the middle. (Circa 2013 if i recall correctly)
Rev3 (No Trouble anymore) - This one is very similar to rev2, but has three O-ring stabilizing fins inside the middle of the valve's spout. (Circa 2014 iirc)

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post #18 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 11:31 AM
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WilgerIndusties - but it just baffles me why those red levers are not a bit longer. Even .5" would make a difference!
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post #19 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 11:36 AM
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WilgerIndusties - but it just baffles me why those red levers are not a bit longer. Even .5" would make a difference!
Honestly, the extra torque you can get can make it shear off the two position nubs. Longer were looked at and tried for testing, but more 'bad stuff' would be possible if you couldn't find the OPEN/CLOSE positions, versus having less torque on the valve.

That being said, I agree with you in that it'd make a big difference in making it easier. You know what, it is easier to get changes made over when there is feedback like yours though. I can literally print a print of a forum and say "This is what they want, and it will make it better."

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post #20 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 11:39 AM
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WilgerIndusties - it is easy to shear those nubs off when you are using pliers to open and close them! Make the nubs bigger, please!!



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