wilger end flush valve - Page 3 - The Combine Forum
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post #21 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 11:42 AM
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WilgerIndusties - it is easy to shear those nubs off when you are using pliers to open and close them! Make the nubs bigger, please!!
I feel you. I'd rather have the valve so you don't need pliers to turn (so extra leverage not needed), but I'll see what I can do.

Do you have an idea how old your valves are btw? Newer than 2014?
@lion Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread....


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post #22 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 12:03 PM
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WilgerIndusries - I am on my 3rd set. First ones were replace with the same as first. 3rd set were different and better, replaced summer of 2014 I believe.



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post #23 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 12:06 PM
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WilgerIndusries - I am on my 3rd set. First ones were replace with the same as first. 3rd set were different and better, replaced summer of 2014 I believe.
Thanks. That info will help for sure. Just wanted to make sure you had the most recent ones as well. Glad that you saw improvement for the 3rd set, but still improvements to be made.

Feel like I should be heading down to the farm personally to switch out the next version...

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post #24 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=WilgerIndustries;3058601]
There are two versions of them, for a 1" boom, you'd be using #25176-V0.

Does that include everything or does it need an oring aswell?
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post #25 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 04:46 PM
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[quote=lion;3058977]
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Originally Posted by WilgerIndustries View Post
There are two versions of them, for a 1" boom, you'd be using #25176-V0.

Does that include everything or does it need an oring aswell?
The 25176-V0 has 3 pieces (threaded together):
25175-V0: base model flush valve for Quick Nut SST Thread
41210-03: VITON O-ring between flush valve
25137-00: Adapter from Quick Nut SST Thread to 1" NPT-F

From the reducer/adapter, you'd just thread seal that. Sometimes if you over-goop it, it can actually crack the plastic (in a plastic vs. metal situation, plastic loses), causing a leak, so it shouldn't need to go beyond bottoming out to seal. I know they had thickened the adapter up some to minimize that happening.

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post #26 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 05:09 PM
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I've got respect for a guy that will come on here and listen and help out those that are using his product, even if not all good feedback. You have my respect. You're the kind of person/company I like to deal with.

It's easy enough to be pleasant, when life goes by like a song. But the man worth while, is the man with a smile, when everything goes dead wrong!
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post #27 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-27-2017, 06:00 PM
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THey are tight! My sprayer is a 2014, when the valves were made?? I have had them unscrew before the the valve opened. I also do not care they have to be turned one direction. Got messed up once and had half them spraying out when I thought they were closed. Lost all the caps. I did not even care enough to look up who made them. Now I know and may order new ones. It is very nice to have something to help with draining the booms and bleed them out.
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post #28 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 09:41 AM
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I've got respect for a guy that will come on here and listen and help out those that are using his product, even if not all good feedback. You have my respect. You're the kind of person/company I like to deal with.
Well, thanks guys. You are the kind of people/farmers that make me like my work too.

Well, to be honest, we want to make good products. No way about it. Sometimes it is tough, as we are typically dealing in plastic, so in a plastic vs. metal situation, plastic will always lose out in a battle of strength. Personally, Wilger is a good company that literally has a history of updating what is made to suit what is needed, so I know I can bring back end-user feedback to improve design. (Can't do it all the time though, but we try to)


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Originally Posted by lanwickum View Post
They are tight! My sprayer is a 2014, when the valves were made?? I have had them unscrew before the the valve opened. I also do not care they have to be turned one direction. Got messed up once and had half them spraying out when I thought they were closed. Lost all the caps. I did not even care enough to look up who made them. Now I know and may order new ones. It is very nice to have something to help with draining the booms and bleed them out.
Depending when the parts were shipped, they could have a chance at being the rev2 version. For the caps, they make a big difference if you can keep them on, as road travel (especially) kicks up gravel/dirt that can get inside the spout and chew the o-rings up pretty bad, so they will literally not leak without replacing the o-rings. If it is just the caps that are gone, you can reorder those separately (#25175-10 - Rubber Cap). I'd try a little bit of liquid silicone before you replace them though.

For the valves, it is honestly night and day if you get a squirt of liquid silicone up into the spout and give it a few turns back and forth. With use, the seal is definitely going to dry out, and it'll only get tighter to turn.

Also, I talked with engineering yesterday afternoon, and having a revised handle/valve is in the works. We want to make sure it will work for most, so I might even post a picture or two of a prototype length/shape over the next little bit to see what you guys think.
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post #29 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-29-2017, 02:52 PM
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So, had a prototype made up yesterday.

Basic concept, a fair bit bigger, but it made it tons easier (scientific measure lol) to turn. Fit nice enough in your hand that two fingers will do it.

The open/close stoppers have already been beefed up already as well, so that is done now. If you try hard enough, you can still break those off, but big improvement.

EDIT: Seems I cant manage to get the forum to show the image correctly, so the below is a link to it.
https://imgur.com/a/4xUmL


I'm thinking I'll get them to try keeping a half-circle radius on the top half of the valve, so it is more apparent when the valve is opened and closed. If it is closed, you'll see the top half-circle sticking up. If open, you'll see the red half-circle down.

Anything missing that you guys would want to see?

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post #30 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-29-2017, 02:59 PM
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I'm not familiar with these valves at all so, what do they do that a regular ball valve doesn't?.

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