wilger end flush valve - Page 6 - The Combine Forum
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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JoRu View Post
Does anybody know, what size of O-rings does those valves take? We squish them a few times a year and i would like to replace those O-rings instead of changing the valve.
Which o-ring are you talking about? Also, in one of the previous revisions of the valve, there could be some issue of under a pressure spike (or when you opened the valve) that the o-ring jumped its' track, and could get snagged when closing the valve (which would stretch the o-ring).

The o-rings on the front/back inside of the valve are a #214 VITON o-ring (make sure not to get anything but VITON, as Buna-N will swell too much).
There are two of them.

For the o-ring around the core, it is a #216 VITON o-ring (same comment on using VITON only)

I attached a drawing for it. Otherwise, it can be found on the wilger website as well (HERE)


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Originally Posted by sasksodbuster View Post
So after using ammonia is there someway that we can lubricate that valve?

Liquid silicone is your friend. Pretty well the ideal lube for o-ring fittings overall. Just give it a squirt up the valve spout, turn the valve a few times back and forth to get it lubed in, and you should be on your way.

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File Type: pdf OLD_25175-00.pdf (208.2 KB, 15 views)

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Last edited by WilgerIndustries; 06-08-2018 at 11:46 AM.
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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 01:06 PM
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Thanks for the tip, phoned Redhead in PA about the new handles and they didn’t seem to know of the new handles.

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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 01:37 PM
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Thanks a lot for the information on the O-Rings. I will order those.....yes, it seems, sometimes, when we open the valve and close it again, that the o-ring will get damaged.


I also talked to our sprayer parts supplier in Winnipeg about those new handles and they were not very comfortable to order the new handles.....told me, it could take weeks or months before they will get it. I will try it again in the winter.

Let's face it......
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Last edited by JoRu; 06-08-2018 at 09:42 PM.
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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for the tip, phoned Redhead in PA about the new handles and they didnít seem to know of the new handles.
I actually got a call from Redhead PA the same day, so they should be on track for getting them in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoRu View Post
Thanks a lot for the information on the O-Rings. I will order those.....yes, it seems, sometimes, when we open the valve and close it again, that the o-ring will get damaged.


I also talked to our sprayer parts supplier in Winnipeg about those new handles and they were not very comfortable to order the new handles.....told me, it could take weeks or months before they will get it. I will try it again in the winter.
@JoRu if the o-rings are jumping their slots, I'm guessing you might have the 2nd revision of the valve. With the current/3rd revision, there are 3 ribs inside the outlet, to keep the o-ring in place while turning the valve handle. With the 2nd version, there was only a central rib down the spout, which allowed for the o-ring to jump its slot during a pressure spike, and get caught when turning. I think the 2nd version of the handle was replaced by the 3rd rev in late 2013.

As far as the distributor in Winnipeg giving kind of crazy answers, if you could PM me who they were, as that is a pretty silly response, especially given we have the parts physically in Saskatoon. Not sure if you might have gotten in touch with someone new or something that didn't understand what you were asking for.

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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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WilgerIndustries i replaced my shorter handles with the new longer ones. Cant actually believe how much difference they make. Went from hard to turn to easy to turn.
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 10:55 AM
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WilgerIndustries i replaced my shorter handles with the new longer ones. Cant actually believe how much difference they make. Went from hard to turn to easy to turn.
Hey Lion, glad to hear it. It makes a huge difference between the two.

All in all, still good to lube the seal up in the spring with liquid silicone, but it is a night and day difference.

Thanks for the feedback. Glad it is working well for you.


SMALL EDIT from before:
We had reasonable demand for the short handled version by manufacturers (for breakaway sections, where contact is more likely), so we ended up having to make a new part number for the longer handled assemblies. Turns out I can't edit my previous post from last year, but if anyone was looking for the part numbers, ignore the previous post (think on Page5).

Long Handled Assemblies:
25175-LV0 (Wilger Quick Nut Booms)
25176-LV0 (1" NPT Thread)
41402-LV0 (Case Thin-Wall Stainless Thread)

Short Handled Assemblies:
25175-V0 (Wilger Quick Nut Booms)
25176-V0 (1" NPT Thread)
41402-V0 (Case TWS Thread)

For the handles themselves, the part numbers are the same:
Long Handle (retro-fit only): #25175-13
Short Handle (retro-fit only): #25175-03

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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 03:46 PM
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I froze mine up and blew the end out of every end flush valve on my sprayer. I ordered new ones and decided to not replace the NPT part the threads onto the wet line. Only a few clocked pointing down when done. Any tips or I am just going to have to replace the NPT adapter part to get them clocked correct? BTW, I do like how easy they were to replace without having to mess with the pipe threaded portion.
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:42 PM
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I froze mine up and blew the end out of every end flush valve on my sprayer. I ordered new ones and decided to not replace the NPT part the threads onto the wet line. Only a few clocked pointing down when done. Any tips or I am just going to have to replace the NPT adapter part to get them clocked correct? BTW, I do like how easy they were to replace without having to mess with the pipe threaded portion.
Talked with the guys in the back.

For the flush valve itself, it has a floating core, so the threads will travel some from product run to product run. It is more-so intended for our Quick Nut style boom fittings, as the male thread can literally rotate around the boom until you have it point down, then you just snug the nut up. (Unfortunately, that doesn't do you any good). So with the NPT being the same and not messing with it, you'd probably have a better time swapping one of your other valves, to see if you can reduce that clock to where it is better. Probably the only thing you'd be doing without taking off the bushing to reset/re-goop the thread to have it pointing straight down.

If you have a few that are point forward too far, swap em with one than points backwards a little more to get your average closer to straight down.
Depending what is left for the last one(s), you might end up resetting one on the pipe to fix the orientation on the last one.
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