Kohler EFI running rich - Page 6 - The Combine Forum
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post #51 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 10:44 PM
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Next time my fuel pump goes on my auger engine I'm gonna put a electric fuel pump and regulator on it. The ones that work off the valve on the kohlers are expensive and tend to leak a lot of gas into the oil.

Electric pump and regulator would be less then half the price of a diaphram fuel pump. Lots of videos on you tube explaining how to do it.

My fuelpump at one of my Kohlers broke a couple years ago and instead a new pump i just put the Fueltank higher to have gravity feed. Best move ever,never had issues since!

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post #52 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 12:42 AM
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How many hp Kohler swman? Ours worked flawless this past week and we were using it into the -40s until it didn’t. Decided today this was the excuse I was waiting for to replace it with a 38hp Kohler carbed engine I had in the shed and recently tuned up on the bench in the shop. Don’t ask why I have an extra one kicking around, I hate explaining that I knocked over a brand new 10x40 Brandt with the air drill leaving the yard to start plant16 after leading the safety briefing earlier that morning.

Anyways our Kohler Efi does not have and auxiliary fuel pump like you are describing, only the mechanical one on valve cover just like the carbed engines. It does have a hand priming pump below the filter which we have never had to use. Maybe bypass that aux pump and install a clean filter and give it a try. One thing I know about Kohlers is they hate having a pinhole leak or larger in the fuel line.

Oh and after dismantling half the engine we removed on the bench today it was discovered that a 10a fuse was the cause for the no start situation we had. Not the new ignition or starter solenoid I bought. So glad i ripped open and threw the boxes in the burning barrel.


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post #53 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 12:53 AM
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Has anyone thought about installing an oil pan heater on the plastic hyd tanks these new augers come with? If they were metal or someone could make a metal one slapping a mag heater on one would be simple. Half the battle is getting the hyd fluid or atf some use warmed up in the morning. The hyd pump belt engagement on all our Brandt’s is a pia. Maybe an electric clutch would help?

Just brainstorming after hauling grain in temps like these recently.
If the stupid trucks wouldn’t start I wouldn’t have any of these problems.
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post #54 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 01:39 AM
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Thoughts around warming up the hydraulic tank, I have a feeling that a glue on silicone type heating pad element would melt through the plastic although I don't know that but they get pretty darned hot and plastic would not dissipate the direct heat like steel or aluminum would. Possibly one idea might be to strap a section of steel or aluminum plate on the bottom side of the tank and then glue on one of those pads or try a magnet heater ( obviously using steel for that heater type ).

Another way of going about it depending on what loads are on the hydraulics once it gets going and ultimate oil temp, is to use J13 hydraulic oil which flows quite a bit better yet then regular non synthetic auto trans oil if you can believe it. The downfall is that its on the thin side for summer use but I have used it for years all year around in an auger system and run a small 6 inch bin sweep with it, haven't killed the pump yet but I won't say it won't risk that from happening.

J13 was the Esso name but for Mobil its Univis HVI-13



https://www.mobil.com/en/industrial/.../univis-hvi-13
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post #55 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 07:33 AM
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I have been running this motor/conveyor for a couple weeks with the oxygen sensor on the muffler unplugged and it has not acted up at all. I guess I could change the sensor but am inclined to just leave it the way it is. Stupid emissions garbage....
Well so much for it working properly. Started smoking randomly so I drained the oil and it looks like gas diluted in the oil to me. Re-reading the thread it would seem that looking at the fuel transfer pump or the head gasket would be the next logical steps? Maybe throwing it in the bush and getting a replacement?

Interestingly enough when it was -35 the other day the thing would not start at all, you could see in the transparent in-line fuel filter that there was no gas coming up to the engine. My bet is that there is some moisture in the system causing problems. Probably need to start using more methyl hydrate or sea foam in the bulk tank too.
is it possible from unplugging the o2 sensor that the machine is just running to rich and washing down the cylinders into the oil? Or possibly just not running warm enough? Maybe needs a "winter front" over the fan intake??
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post #56 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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How many hp Kohler swman?

Oh and after dismantling half the engine we removed on the bench today it was discovered that a 10a fuse was the cause for the no start situation we had. Not the new ignition or starter solenoid I bought. So glad i ripped open and threw the boxes in the burning barrel.
I think it's a 26.5HP engine??? It's less than the carbureted one that was the other choice at the time. I had one of each to choose from when I bought and figured the EFI would for sure be less trouble...

I have had fuse issues before one time, so that is definitely a good thing to check. It was wired wrong when I bought it too and dealer had to change that before I could even use it.

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is it possible from unplugging the o2 sensor that the machine is just running to rich and washing down the cylinders into the oil? Or possibly just not running warm enough? Maybe needs a "winter front" over the fan intake??
I don't think unplugging the O2 sensor made it wash but hard to say. I will say it ran pretty good after I unplugged it, seemingly normal. It does seem to run with less power for the first 5 minutes or so and then notch it up. It is definitely possible that it isn't full temp because the last month of hauling has been really cold. I think it sucks the intake through a pipe that goes through the muffler.

I'm gonna see if this thing is under warranty still and do further digging.

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post #57 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 08:05 PM
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I shouldn't have been lurking on this thread. Two of mine won't start as of today .


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post #58 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 09:31 PM
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Has anyone thought about installing an oil pan heater on the plastic hyd tanks these new augers come with? If they were metal or someone could make a metal one slapping a mag heater on one would be simple. Half the battle is getting the hyd fluid or atf some use warmed up in the morning. The hyd pump belt engagement on all our Brandt’s is a pia. Maybe an electric clutch would help?

Just brainstorming after hauling grain in temps like these recently.
If the stupid trucks wouldn’t start I wouldn’t have any of these problems.

Could a guy possibly drill in a pan heater element like ones used in an oil pan? Just crossed my mind when I read your post.

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post #59 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 09:41 PM
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SWMan, have you tried covering up the front of the engine a bit, I know of a few Kohlers that won't run worth a crap if they are cold, but cover up the front about half and they seem fine. Also I'm not a fan of engines that draw warm air from around the muffler like they do, seems to cause more problems than they solve in my experience. We had a Briggs that wouldn't run at all with the hot air intake. Now saying all this, we only have one Kohler, carbed, and haven't really had any issues with it, but have to unhook the hot air intake in the summer because it will barely run when it's hot out. Not sure if I would go with another Kohler again. Ours is something like 25-26?? hp and I know an old 20 horse Briggs would handle a lot more than this thing, actually had a really rough old 18 hp Kohler on the same auger we put the new motor on, and it wasn't much less than this thing is.

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post #60 of 64 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 10:01 PM
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The hot air intake on a kohler is supposed to be unhooked around +5 or +7.

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