Broken drive shaft at the top of Sukundiak 10x1600 Auger - The Combine Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,964
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Broken drive shaft at the top of Sukundiak 10x1600 Auger

The dive shaft above the auger tube on our 10x 1600 Sukundiak auger that runs from the gearbox to the drive sprockets at the top of the auger appears to be broke about 3 inches from the top sprocket. It happened tonight in the dark and I have not had time to take it apart. There is a red metal shield around it so it is hard to tell what went wrong under the shield. Has anyone had this happen to them and how did you fix it? Does a person have to replace the entire drive shaft or does it come in sections? Does the sprocket at the end mount directly on to the drive shaft or is there some sort of coupler that could have gone bad? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks SouthernSk

SouthernSK is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 01:37 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NE Saskatchewan
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 43 Post(s)
Its actually quite common, esp on the 10" augers, but its happened on the 8" as well. The drive shaft is actually pipe from the gearbox to a few inches from the top where a stub shaft is welded on. The welds never break, its the pipe right below where the stub shaft is will twist off. The pipe is a bit light considering the torque on it in a 10" auger, but Meridian wasn't too keen on taking any advice from customers.

Remove the top cover, chain, sprocket and the plastic red cover will slide off. Its not a terrible fix, but you've got 3 options.
1.You can either install a heavier wall pipe and lathe down the stub shaft to fit.
2. Use a collar with a shear bolt/pin.
3. Weld on a collar.

Considering the model number you provided and its age, it went quite a while until it broke. Your probably fine with a collar. The one auger I have with shear bolts seems to always break them at the most inconvenient times no matter the quality, so I'd stay away from shear bolts.

megrizzly is offline  
post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 01:51 AM
jvw
Senior Member
 
jvw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: central Alberta
Posts: 993
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 289 Post(s)
Had the same thing happen this spring. Right full of fertilizer and right at the top of its reach of course. And busy with too many other things.

Very worn out back up auger, so the fix was as simple as possible. I didn't disassemble anything, I cut the shield off either side of the break, split it and took it off.

Ground off the nasty jagged parts sticking out.

Clamped a 6" long angle iron across the break to keep it all lined up, welded the opposite side back together, grind off and move angle iron to opposite side, and weld the shaft together under where the angle iron was, then welded the angle iron along the sides.

Added another angle on the first side of the shaft and welded it as well.

Promised myself I wouldn't grab the shaft with no shield next time I am watching the bin fill to the top...

Justin Trudeau, accomplishing miracles since 2015, making Pierre Elliot look smart, competent and western friendly.
jvw is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 02:35 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Alberta
Posts: 234
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
You're crafty enough you can easily slap on some metal to make the shield whole again during some downtime before harvest. Bad things happen. Takes just one time that you're tired, lose your balance and reach out by instinct, or gust of wind comes along... Or someone else goes up there...
Marusko is offline  
post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,964
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Thanks for all the info. JVW mine broke similar to yours. The auger is full almost to highest reach on top of bin. We have had Sakudiak augers for over 30 years and have never had this happen before. At least I know what I am dealing with. The combine forum has been such a wonderful source of info.

Does anyone know if they use a one length of pipe for the drive shaft from the gear box to the top sprocket or is there several sections of pipe where a guy could just replace the top section?
SouthernSK is offline  
post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 10:02 AM
Senior Member
 
meskie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE sask Canada
Posts: 2,309
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 771 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by megrizzly View Post
Its actually quite common, esp on the 10" augers, but its happened on the 8" as well. The drive shaft is actually pipe from the gearbox to a few inches from the top where a stub shaft is welded on. The welds never break, its the pipe right below where the stub shaft is will twist off. The pipe is a bit light considering the torque on it in a 10" auger, but Meridian wasn't too keen on taking any advice from customers.

Remove the top cover, chain, sprocket and the plastic red cover will slide off. Its not a terrible fix, but you've got 3 options.
1.You can either install a heavier wall pipe and lathe down the stub shaft to fit.
2. Use a collar with a shear bolt/pin.
3. Weld on a collar.

Considering the model number you provided and its age, it went quite a while until it broke. Your probably fine with a collar. The one auger I have with shear bolts seems to always break them at the most inconvenient times no matter the quality, so I'd stay away from shear bolts.
Never seen an auger with a shear bolt except on a swing away
meskie is online now  
post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 09:53 AM
Member
 
kevthi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Langham Sask
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Mine broke 3 times. They now have a longer stub shaft to put in the top end. I drilled more holes in the pipe and stub for more plug welds and got rid of the electric clutch. Hasn't broke since.
kevthi is offline  
post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 04:07 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
This just happened to me also,same spot on a 8x1600, auger is 4 years old with electric clutch. hum? I have 2 other older 8x1600 with e-kay tightners never ever happened to them, just welded the pipe back together to empty the auger and finish the load, am now thinking that the thin wall pipe can't handle the shock load of the electric clutch.
qlranching is offline  
post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 06:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 4,860
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 825 Post(s)
For what it’s worth I think there are a lot of augers out there with the belts a waaaay too tight for starting with an electric clutch.
Haystack is offline  
post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:19 PM
Senior Member
 
meskie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE sask Canada
Posts: 2,309
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 771 Post(s)
I like to loosen the belts before engaging the clutch. I think the shock load is hard on them. Our new auger has the soft start clutch so it doesn’t engage as hard.

meskie is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Combine Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome