Alternator question - Page 2 - The Combine Forum
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:51 AM
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Did a bit searching. I'm getting the impression that the terminal off by itself may be a tachometer output.....


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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:09 AM
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Wiring up the GM 10SI Alternator


Here is exact diagram for an old delco. Again he is talking about 1 wire connection. No loops diodes or anything. Install alternator. Hook output wire to battery. Drive on. To test regulator you ground out the regulator thru the d shaped hole, Small screwdriver and ground to case


https://alternatorparts.com/10si-15s...al-page-3.html

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:03 PM
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1 VS 3 wire systems

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnviL View Post
Well in the case of the oh so common GM delco "1 wire" alt the hot rudders special.
There are actually 3 connections.
One heavy stud terminal goes to the battery [usually via the starter to save wire]
Then the 2 spade connectors with lighter gauge wire are for the charging light and regulator sensor wire.
The indicator light is grounded through the alternator.
There are options for the regulator voltage sens line.
They're called a "1 wire" because the indicator light terminal does not need to be connected and the reg sens line can simply be looped to the heavy output terminal of the alternator.... now IDEALLY the reg sens wire should go directly to the battery, so the battery itself gets the correct voltage regardless of poor connections between it and the alternator.
Not sure if you have that alternator, they're quite common, but what it comes down to is typically you have a heavy charge current carrying wire direct to the battery.
A lighter gauge wire connected directly to the battery for voltage regulator.
And another lighter gauge wire that goes to ignition to "turn on" the alternator.
[The gm delco are "self exciting" so the "turn on" wire is omitted.

Hope I didnt confuse things [I feel like a confused myself there..]

And this is very typical unless you looking at a Chrysler that has a "generator" instead of a alternator.... which just means the regulator is remotely mounted....I doubt your massey woukd have that though.Attachment 151311
The 3 wire alt isn't a 1 wire, there is a difference.
1 wire alternators suck, while a 3 wire can charge at idle.

alternators-1-vs-3-wire
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:36 PM
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All you need is a se regulator. Got a dozen working just fine. Charges at an idle once locked in. No problems. I am out of here. I have not got high enough boots to keep going
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:20 PM
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Looks like tswansons link has all that you need. Two wires are paralled to increase current capacity, the terminal (#2) above those is for indicating lamp and the one off by itself is not used. Perhaps it is for tach sensing as Anvil says.

You need to check with a voltmeter and see if it is charging. Verify connections from terminals 3&4 to battery are intact. If you aren't getting above battery voltage at half throttle then you need to look at the alternator.

Slim possibility that the circuit to terminal #2 needs to be intact so if bulb is burnt out or wire broken then there is no trickle of current to excite the field to start charging. Doubtful, but if no other explanation for what you see then maybe look into the possibility.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:06 PM
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Barn
I think what it comes down to is as long as the thing is spinning at a good rpm and there is power supplied to terminal #2 you should get over 12.6 volts at one or both of the big spade terminals.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:07 PM
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Sorry for even mentioning the delco alternator............... should have known better...

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks you guys, as usual you give good information. I put on the new alternator, left the one terminal alone, and everything is working and charging good. I got thinking that since we got the tractor, the dash light never worked but we changed it last fall and that was why it wasn't charging because it was an open circuit. So probably the original alternator and the one we put on actually worked, but with the light burnt out they wouldn't charge. The one we put on last fall I have a feeling wasn't the right one or wasn't working from new and was over charging. The joys of buying junk from Piston Ring, you never really know what you are getting, on more than one occasion we have bought stuff that didn't work from them, so when a guy is working on something not really sure of to begin with then getting parts from a place that you have your doubts if the parts are even working or not, can cause some grief! Thanks again guys!

It's easy enough to be pleasant, when life goes by like a song. But the man worth while, is the man with a smile, when everything goes dead wrong!
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