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Must have features on an auger mover?

9K views 35 replies 18 participants last post by  bjtjjl 
#1 ·
Just wondering what must have features an auger mover should have?

Sick of moving my pto units by hand in the mud or snow. I'm starting with a 14x40 farm king if that matters.

I've never really been around a self propelled auger so I'm asking for your expertise. Seen a few when I was at agri-trade and have a few ideas.

Are 16" pickup tires good for getting around?

What style hopper do you like? I've only used the big round plastic ones.

What would take it from a Chevy to a Cadillac?
 
#3 ·
-Electric clutch with 2 switches (one near the motor and another on the tube near bin)
-Reversing gearbox
-Lights (near spout, engine, and facing bin)
-any sort of truck tire is fine. The Carlisle trailer tires that came on my batco are absolutely pitiful at the mere sight of snow, ice, or soft ground
-shovel and broom holders
-place to store your hitch on the auger
-the plastic agrihopper from the coop is pretty good

A 14" would be stupid fast. For loading by yourself, look at a wifi camera and/or a remote clutch switch.
 
#7 ·
Go copy a hawes mover on a sakundiak all the options are good. My next auger will be loaded just like the last one is. I use all of the bells and whistles enough to say I need them.
Lights are a must
So are clutch switches
big fuel tank
Big tires on mover
Pivoting spout
Reverse especially on a 14”
 
#8 ·
I don't know about the newer movers but our rather dated wheatheart mover on a 8" 46 foot runs out of hydraulic power to the wheels when the going gets tough in snow and I do run chains on it. With your weight of auger and that diesel engine, you certainly would have to have a capable hydraulic system and orbit motors to power the wheels. Make sure with whatever tires/wheels you go with that you have enough clearance between the tire sidewall and the frame to run chains.
 
#9 ·
EDGE AGRO | Equipment Development & Manufacturing
I like everything about this auger except I’m not sure about the mover. The 4 wheel Hawes is hard to beat. Auger hog hoppers have been great for us. A wifi camera is almost a must for that size, I have a pto 12x39 is as fast as I like. Are all of your bins hoppers Dan? I have some northstar and some Sukup unloaders in 4808 bins with 20hp 3 phase motors and they cannot keep up to the 12x39 unless I wanted to crack the intermediate gates
 
#10 ·
I prefer the style that drives the wheels, not a track or wheel model that is closer to the inlet end, these ones just spin out when pulling into a bin. Get good grips for tires, not an implement style.
 
#14 ·
Sakundiak with a Hawes 4 wheel mover with 2 clutch switchs, reverse gear box and light kit. Mine is a 53' so I can load my fert bins and some 3200 hoppers I have. Just bought it this year. Buddy bought a wheat heart with the 2 skinny wheel mover. What a pain in the ass that thing is. Moving it where there are ruts or snow ridges that thing just body slams you. The thing shakes like a paint shaker when running. After having the Sakundiak and running the Wheatheart there is no comparison. The little money he saved wasn't worth it. Actually bought himself junk IMO.
 
#16 ·
Yes Don motorcycle style. Only one thing that could make that system even better would be to have steering rods to all 4 wheels. It currently is hooked to 2 of the 4 wide castor wheels. If it was hooked to all 4 it really would cross ridges even better than it already does. You bring up an interesting point on passenger side thing. Now I am trying to picture my auger. Can't remember which side my key is on now. Haven't used it enough to be etched in my mind but should be using it lots here soon.
 
#18 ·
Thank you, key location likely the determining factor, good point.
But, when I bought my first Sukundiak told the dealer get the controls on the correct (drivers) side, which they did.

Remember Farm Progress Show in Regina about 20 years ago, my friend Harv asked a rep why their auger controls were backwards, rep says because that’s the way people like them.
LIKE WHO? Harv asked.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for all the ideas. Definitely a few that I never thought of.

Here's my Coles notes.

1- electric clutch wth remote.
2- lights
3- reversing gearbox. Any one have a source for a 50 ish hp one?
4- good tires or studs/chains. Won't be seeing highway travel except maybe 1/2 mile down the road.
5- shovel and broom holder.
6- battery disconnect on a good oversized battery.

I'm just curious on what a pivoting spout is? Is that for aiming the spout for those drivers that can't line up under an auger with a 250' run at it?

What's the deal with the steerable castors? Are you steering them in conjunction with running the wheel motors or is that just for keeping it straight when crossing ruts etc?

This would be for mostly hoppers. I have a few flat bottoms with 10" unloads I made and they would be probably too slow for this.

Just got her home yesterday.

 

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#24 ·
I knew I'd forget something.

Any makes better than others? I have a Chinese wired cam system on my bale truck that works good but never had a wireless. Looked at one at UFA a while ago but my buddy working there said he had lots returned due to poor signal but I can't remember what make it was.
 
#22 ·
I know where there is a reversing gearbox that might be just the ticket. It is about 14" high x 10" wide and depth, the way the shafts run, maybe 8" plus what the shaft and flange sticks out past the casting. It is not shiftable though so how would you engage reverse? Sliding shift collars on the drive shafts, like a dog clutch??? Not as handy but swapping the drive chain with the master link would work for the odd time you need it. Another approach is using a tractor with reverse in the pto like the old Massey 65, 85, 88, 90 series. If it was a pto auger. I have hooked my 65 up the pto, jack up one tire and put the transmission in reverse in whatever range you want. Works well for the odd time you need it.

After seeing the pic of your auger, I think my Detroit 2-71 would be great on there!
 
#26 ·
Hmm. That would work for reversing it.

I'm going to try hooking it to my Vers 400 swather and see if the 200 Ford has enough jam to run it. Supposed to be 53 hp. Then I've got hydrostats and a hyd pump / valve bank to work with. Not sure if I can mount the auger to the swather frame or if I'll have to strip everything and transplant it to the auger frame?

If it doesn't have the kahones to run it I definitely would take a look at that screamin demon. I've got an 8v71 and a 7.5L Ford kicking around but they're a little overkill at 300 ish hp probably.

I had a brainwave while drying grain about setting up a pneumatic grain system and think your Detroit would work great for that. That's about #378 on my project list right now though.
 
#23 ·
I don't know how much help this is but in finding your auger model on a farm equipment sales site, they mention all augers are available with a reverse shift gear box. Its down in the comments section of this webpage.

Farm King Equip | GJ's Farm Equipment Woodstock 519-424-9374

As to a spout that can be controlled from the ground, I have seen some various designed units advertised in the past, perhaps in the Green Book although made for smaller augers. We made our own for our 8" auger and basically consists of using a portion of a flex spout and then a small winch lower down on the auger tube with a small cable reaching to an arm assembly clamped to the auger tube right at the top and it moves the spout away or towards the auger, using winter grade tarp straps as the spring so to speak to pull in the one direction as the cable is loosened. We use it all the time because of flat bottom bins and moving the auger in and being able to align the spout to still hit the trailer and not have to realign the trailer constantly. With flat ground and good room to align yourself to the auger and that the auger remains stationary through out the unloading of the whole bin, a spout like that is not really high on the list of must haves, for us and what we do with our auger its been extremely productive though.
 
#27 ·
Thanks. Sounds like a way better system than I used to use of tying a piece of twine to the spout and then to the auger frame or some other point. Never fails that I'd snag it sometimes and that 110# twine I swear would have 1000# tensile strength.

I'll have to do some more digging as there is no mention of a reversible gearbox in the parts book. Wouldn't be the first time there was an omission though. That would be an easy option.
 
#25 ·
Not sure if this would work for you or not, but for the around the yard auger, we went with a PTO drive instead. Seems like the auger engines are always giving trouble and under powered. We welded some tubing under the frame, and use the pallet forks on the loader to move it around. Works slick. No back aches, no spinning tires, just put the auger where you want it. There isn't any reason you couldn't hook up an electric clutch, reversing gearbox and lights on it either. Could either run off tractor or set up an alternator and battery right on the auger as well. Like I said, works well around the main yard.
 

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#28 ·
I hope that isn't patented cause I'm going to steal that idea for some of my other augers.

This fall I ran out of tractors for shuffling grain as we were combining one crop, drying a different crop, baling, and feeding cows. Need another power unit anyways as I had to fill a truck then switch the tractor to another auger to empty the truck some days. That got old fast.
 
#29 ·
This is the idea we came up with although initially had the whole five bucket spout on until we purchased a taller grain trailer and it became too tight for height going into some of our bins doors to stay under the tie bar and still having enough height at the top end so I took two buckets off and modified what was left so it would move as much as possible but not have one bucket pop out of the next in the process as otherwise its easier just using a whole spout length if that isn't an issue. The winch is just a small hand crank and has to have the flip catch on it rather then a clutch as there isn't enough pull on a clutch winch to work it properly with ones I've dealt with unfortunately. A piece of band iron curved can be made up to clamp around the auger tube for the winch so no welding on the tube has to be done and easy to move the winch to another spot along the tube that way. Just 1/8 cable and using the inside of the brackets up the tube for the drive shaft support as the cable guide with this style auger. Get the pivot as close as you can to the spout center, I made a solid hoop attachment to the arm in an egg shape to allow for the bucket angling within it as its moved and that seems sufficient vs doing the hoop on a pivoting point attachment to that arm. Throw on as many tarp straps as needed to give the tension required or could get fancy and use a double push/pull cable system down to the winch but didn't need that for this size auger, a 14 inch is a lot of grain weigh so hard to say. Gives a guy an idea though and then one improves upon it, that's how it usually goes !
 

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