Finishing Shop Need Ideas and Advice - Page 3 - The Combine Forum
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post #21 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sasksodbuster View Post
We are planning on having a heated floor running PEX every foot on top of 2 inch high density foam and 15 mm rebar at 12 in if I do spray foam it'll be two or three in and probably R-20 bats walls are 2 by 8 construction.

Like the idea of running drainage tile out a side hill but worried that mice or rats me use it as an entry way

Thought about running foam between the strapping on the outside but it would be a bit of a job now that the tin is already done could possibly pull the corners off or a couple of sheets and slide foam between the two by four strapping. Will have to look into this.
Had a mechanical company design my floor heat in my shop. They recommended to put tie the PEX above the rebar closer to the top of the slab, rather than the bottom of it. Reason being it makes for a more efficient heat transfer into the shop. Cement guys don't like it as they have to be more careful when working the concrete, but it is your shop. Don't forget to put a vapour barrier underneath the insulation as well. My shop heats very efficiently and I really like the floor heat.

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post #22 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 09:38 AM
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When you buy styverfoam for the floor make sure it is rigid enough or has the right compressive rating that it will not crush easily. The two inch lowes silver board has a very high compressive rating and is the vapor barrier if you tape the seams. How are you insulating your grade beam? And exposed couple feet of concrete on the grade beam can loose as much heat as the whole building above it if not insulated. It is not hard to lay the heat pex pipe if you understand the rules on how it is done. We paid for a pex drawing but it is a waste of time if you understand the basics of how to do it. In our garage we installed a 600 cfm fan in the peak of the scissior trust and duct it to the eave with 20x6 inch rectangular galvanized ducts.

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post #23 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Grade beam is insulated with two inches of foam on the outside and not sure if Ishould insulate the inside of the grade beam.Looking at using 2” of Plastipan 40 which has a rating of 40psi. As far as the pex I have already drawn myplan but not sure if I should staple to foam or tie to rebar. Still have to buy my pex, who has the best prices out there?

Last edited by sasksodbuster; 04-28-2018 at 10:57 AM.
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post #24 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 11:59 AM
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The 24" horizontal Styrofoam keeps the ground below concrete above freezing, prevents frost heaves, cracking. Your piles should prevent all the frost jacking happening to most post frames around here. Rare to see eaves and gables too, we did a foot all around. You have 24" OC studs and rafters, very strong.

Finally warmer, seeding in progress(
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post #25 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 03:32 PM
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The 2 inch silver board has a psi rating around 40-45psi. Your 40 should be good. The silver board is around $36.50 per 4x8 sheet when Lowes has a 15% discount. For pex we bought the vega floor heat 1/2 inch pex last fall for $.31 per foot. The 1/2 inch mainifolds were $200-300 depending on the number of loops.
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post #26 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 04:20 PM
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Definitely staple the pex heat pipes to the foam!!!
I have done both (staple or tie to re-bar/wire mesh) and since I bought/use the stapler it takes half as long to do a floor and no sore back, knees etc.
My daughter was 11 when her and I did the pipes in our 1600sqft garage.
Took just under 3 hours for the 2 of us to layout and fully staple the pipes.
A trough floor drain and large landing to work around cost us an extra hour.
Have done a couple 40x60 to 60x120 since with 3 and 4 guys and adjusting the plan on the fly to work around drains etc and takes 3 to 6 hours.
I try and get 1200ft rolls and only use 1/2" pex.
I want a decent pex unroller if/when I do another floor.

Last edited by ry0972; 04-28-2018 at 08:31 PM.
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post #27 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SWFarmService View Post
Looks sharp!
Do a good floor drain system, I can't imagine not being able to wash something inside in the winter and your from Canada! Don't fool yourself!

Even if your not doing floor heat I would consider doing insulation under the floor, you wouldn't believe how much heat is lost through the floor.
AGREE 100%, have two heated and both have insulated floors and a sump (trucks in winter thawing etc), plumb it right put a washroom and laundry rough in at least. Pipe the floors we hooked only one up but it gives you opion, if nothing it holds 300 psi ,run compressed air to spots
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post #28 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 05:04 PM
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My floor is double rebar thickened edge slab with 6" thick on the rest in floor heat between rebar with 3/8" or 1/2' reflective foam underneath. 2" under slab on top of dirt is way overkill in my mind.

How much heat loss do I have? Haven't put any insulation around perimeter yet. I want some heat loss where I am keeping frost away from under building. The snow won't even melt on an average winter day.

If I was doing it again I'd save money on infloor and put solar panels on the roof.

Put a U-drain in or something very similar, one of the best things I did in mine. Yes it's overpriced, mostly because of the installation. Well worth it for me. My sump is in the middle. With my layout I wouldn't want it anywhere else. I think I could drive a semi loaded over it.

Sprayfoam costs more upfront. Make sure you get the cost of insulating and vapour barrier installed with labor when making your decision. Nothing will seal better than the spray foam in my mind.

A shop will be around a lot longer than your equipment so don't cheep out now.
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Last edited by 460; 04-29-2018 at 05:07 PM.
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post #29 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't seen much progress on the shop lately mostly picking up materials to get ready for the pouring of the floor, picked up the foam and pex stapler waiting to put in some weeping tile for my drainage. Had the walls spray foamed with 3 inches of foam we'll also add additional five and a half inches of fiberglass to the walls. My rafters are spaced at 2 feet is there any need to put strapping on or should I just screw the metal to the rafters? Hoping to have the floor poured by July 1st, then start on the interior.
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post #30 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 09:15 PM
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I would strap it just for the ease of mounting things to the wall.

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