Getting Field Ready John Deere 6600 - Page 3 - The Combine Forum
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 09:16 AM
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12V. They had two batteries in parallel for more current. Make sure to run the electric lift pump/pump the primer some to get fuel in the lines--starts much easier then.


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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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The battery was just super low it wasn't even spinning the engine fast enough for it to start.

I put it on a charger and will be trying again this weekend. I'll take up a volt meter to make sure it's giving enough voltage. The battery may just be toast.


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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Got it started today. Had to move it to another spot on the farm. I was having trouble getting into gear. The clutch pedal has no pressure. It just drops to the ground.

I'm guessing it's low on gear oil. Not sure how I can check the level or where to refill it from.

Any ideas?


I was able to slide it into gear by quickly shifting into gear right after starting it and before the engine revved up fully. I got it where I needed it but just wondering how I can resolve this issue.

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 10:10 AM
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YOur clutch works like a hydraulic brake. There is a master cylinder and an slave cylinder. Remove the cab floor mat, take the cover plate off by the clutch pedal, you will see the clutch master cylinder. Refill with oil....bleed clutch cylinder down by clutch housing.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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What's the correct oil for it?

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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jeff-C-IL View Post
Make sure to run the electric lift pump/pump the primer some to get fuel in the lines--starts much easier then.
How do I do this? I got it start last time but it took a lot of repeated cranking while being hooked up to a battery charger. I actually blew the negative terminal cable from cranking too long at once without letting the cable cool down in between cranks. Luckily I didn't kill the starter. Since its getting colder I don't want to drain the battery when I go to start it again. Is it safe to use starter fluid or should that be avoided?

For the clutch I found out that I just need to use brake fluid. I'm not sure if it needs DOT 3 or DOT 4. Perhaps it will say on the cap. I'll check next time I'm up at the farm.

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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 12:11 PM
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Cool

Make sure you look out for the battery spontaneously combusting that's been a recent issue with me I've gone through 3 batteries in the last 12 days. Other than that my combine runs smoothly. I've got a hair over 73 acres of whole wheat.
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not actually running the combine I just had to move it to make space for parking for a event at the farm. I'll just be starting it one more time to move it back to its spot. Unless I get an interested buyer it'll probably stay parked until next spring.

If your battery is combusting the alternator might be overcharging. Maybe the voltage regulator is toast or bad wiring is causing the issue.

I'd test the alternator and check for loose or corroded ground connections.

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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 01:00 PM
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The battery was on my shelf in the barn and just burst into flames.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-04-2018, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by skylight62 View Post
How do I do this? I got it start last time but it took a lot of repeated cranking while being hooked up to a battery charger. I actually blew the negative terminal cable from cranking too long at once without letting the cable cool down in between cranks. Luckily I didn't kill the starter. Since its getting colder I don't want to drain the battery when I go to start it again. Is it safe to use starter fluid or should that be avoided?

For the clutch I found out that I just need to use brake fluid. I'm not sure if it needs DOT 3 or DOT 4. Perhaps it will say on the cap. I'll check next time I'm up at the farm.
For a combine built in the 70s I would use ordinary Brake Fluid, not any of the newer Dot stuff .... worry about that on the new cars!

I think I'm forgetting the 6600, I'm not sure if they have a priming pump or not. Maybe not. On the 7720 I always turned on the key so the electric pump under the tank starts running, then went out and unscrewed and pumped the plunger on the back on the injection pump. A plastic finger wheel that was hooked to a plunger. I would pump it until I could feel fuel being pushed thru the system. Then it would always fire right up. On the 6600, you may have to loosen the fuel inlet fitting at the pump until fuel starts coming out, then tighten it.


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