'85 Dodge W150 won't start - Page 3 - The Combine Forum
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well over that lat month or so we replaced the following: carb(reman) fuel pump, put in a electric fuel pump, filter, checked the strainer in the tank, spark plugs, sparkplug wires, distributor, coil, and blew out any and every line we could find.


We then asked the former Chrysler dealer over here and he did say vapor lock was a common issue with them, and ethanol boils at a little under 100F, while the thermostat opens around 180. Next, if we can get it running reliably, is we will try Ethanol free gas. It'll be spendy but it may be the solution to our problem. (We have a 550 bulk tank and it would come out to something like another $245(per refill),unless we can get the cenex in Sidney MT to haul some over, then it wouldn't be so bad.)

It is funny that we don't have as bad of problems with our IH, Ford and GM vehicles and equipment...

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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 08:53 PM
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It's more where the fuel line and pump is routed and where the coolant passes... on race cars we actually block the water passages on the intake and wrap the fuel line in insulation such as boiler line or what have you.

I have a kit car that uses the vw bug chassis (air cooled) vaporlocking is a huge problem in those as when I shut it off I can watch the fuel in the clear filter boil out.

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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 01:26 AM
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About 30 under a typical AB Highway 2 tour.

...and then you get to Calgary and have to speed up to keep up. They don't call it the Deerfoot 500 for nothing!

Living the dream,......one bushel at a time.
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 10:06 AM
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Never witnessed the vapor lock issue, heard it used as theory many times, usually find the real problem eventually. Doing same thing? When it quits you look down carb, pump throttle, see no fuel so dump fuel in carb and it fires right off? If it was "vapor lock" the electric fuel pump would push fuel through to eventually purge the air unless needle was stuck in seat. Fuel line routing, plastic spacer under carb can solve evaporation of fuel - don't need special fuel. Rebuilt carb, but is float maybe set too low? If 4bbl carb i prefer the Edelbrocks, so darn simple to work and adjust. I have tinkered with my fair share of Holleys too.
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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 12:39 PM
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...and then you get to Calgary and have to speed up to keep up. They don't call it the Deerfoot 500 for nothing!
Outta see the Stony Trail (#201) now, wraps 3/4’s of the way around Calgary and has greatly increased traffic efficiency!

I’ve subscribed to Consumer Reports long enough to remember when they announced they were dropping the “Starting and Running” section as all fuel injected vehicles started and ran perfectly, it became a pointless section.
Issues like this thread remind one of what we are missing from the the “good old days”!

In fact, it’s went the opposite way, this auto engine shutoff at stop lights is an incredible pita!
Meaningless fuel savings combined with increased danger on left turn against traffic starts sink this stupid idea in my book!
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Last edited by Don Boles; 06-17-2018 at 12:51 PM.
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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 09:00 PM
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In fact, it’s went the opposite way, this auto engine shutoff at stop lights is an incredible pita!
Meaningless fuel savings combined with increased danger on left turn against traffic starts sink this stupid idea in my book!
My gf had a Chevy Malibu that would shut off at stoplights. Even when she pulled in the yard it would shut off then when she put it in park it would start back up! WTF!
Called my friend that works at the at the dealership where she got and asked if it was supposed to do that. Yep. K she'll be in tomorrow morning and that fun thing stays running or it's she's getting a fusion! Took about a week but got something figured out and they called her in and plugged it in and from then on it stayed running until the key was turned off.

He told me when you get rid of it we have to switch it back. When she traded they switched it. So maybe they aren't allowed to monkey with the computers?
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 12:18 AM
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Outta see the Stony Trail (#201) now, wraps 3/4’s of the way around Calgary and has greatly increased traffic efficiency!

I’ve subscribed to Consumer Reports long enough to remember when they announced they were dropping the “Starting and Running” section as all fuel injected vehicles started and ran perfectly, it became a pointless section.
Issues like this thread remind one of what we are missing from the the “good old days”!

In fact, it’s went the opposite way, this auto engine shutoff at stop lights is an incredible pita!
Meaningless fuel savings combined with increased danger on left turn against traffic starts sink this stupid idea in my book!
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My gf had a Chevy Malibu that would shut off at stoplights. Even when she pulled in the yard it would shut off then when she put it in park it would start back up! WTF!
Called my friend that works at the at the dealership where she got and asked if it was supposed to do that. Yep. K she'll be in tomorrow morning and that fun thing stays running or it's she's getting a fusion! Took about a week but got something figured out and they called her in and plugged it in and from then on it stayed running until the key was turned off.

He told me when you get rid of it we have to switch it back. When she traded they switched it. So maybe they aren't allowed to monkey with the computers?

GF's Ford Escape shuts down at traffic lights. One way of getting around it is to just hold the brake enough after a stop to not engage the auto shut off. Works well if you have ever driven class 1 and are a smooth driver. I have now found the button on the dash to turn that feature off and it stays running all the time at traffic lights. Talk about a lot of wear and tear on a starter.

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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 01:13 AM
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GF's Ford Escape shuts down at traffic lights. One way of getting around it is to just hold the brake enough after a stop to not engage the auto shut off. Works well if you have ever driven class 1 and are a smooth driver. I have now found the button on the dash to turn that feature off and it stays running all the time at traffic lights. Talk about a lot of wear and tear on a starter.
And ringgear sometimes if I'm in a town with stoplights I can hear them grind when the engine doesn't quite stop turning but the starter spins... great engineering.

The few times I've went golfing (drinking in a well groomed pasture) it annoyed me that golf carts shut off. Think that's where that idea came from.
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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 01:34 AM
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Anyway back to the dodge. Can you hear the pump slow down when you turn the key? Just for kicks open the fuel cap next time it does it and see if you can hear suction. Had an old skidloader that the cap wouldn't vent and it would suck the fuel back through the pump and the pump would have a hard time repriming against the vacuum...
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 02:28 AM Thread Starter
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It's more where the fuel line and pump is routed and where the coolant passes... on race cars we actually block the water passages on the intake and wrap the fuel line in insulation such as boiler line or what have you.

I have a kit car that uses the vw bug chassis (air cooled) vaporlocking is a huge problem in those as when I shut it off I can watch the fuel in the clear filter boil out.
see from what we can tell, there is a channel that runs close to the steel line or mech pump, thats causing it

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Originally Posted by kenmb View Post
Never witnessed the vapor lock issue, heard it used as theory many times, usually find the real problem eventually. Doing same thing? When it quits you look down carb, pump throttle, see no fuel so dump fuel in carb and it fires right off? If it was "vapor lock" the electric fuel pump would push fuel through to eventually purge the air unless needle was stuck in seat. Fuel line routing, plastic spacer under carb can solve evaporation of fuel - don't need special fuel. Rebuilt carb, but is float maybe set too low? If 4bbl carb i prefer the Edelbrocks, so darn simple to work and adjust. I have tinkered with my fair share of Holleys too.
Just put in the electric, so we haven't really driven it much...I can for sure tell you it was vapor locking before the electric

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