Farm shops - Page 3 - The Combine Forum
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post #21 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 12:06 AM
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I've been noticing a lot of commercial shops lately use overhead radiant heat. That's the way I think I'm going to go. We'll keep it heated all winter, at least to 5 or 10 degrees. In my mind that has all the advantages of the in-floor heating (recovers fast when you open the door) without all the disadvantages of maintaining a boiler, and the inevitable cracking and leaking.

We recently bought a building from Prairie Steel. The cost difference in materials vs wood wasn't that big of a jump. We'll build it this summer.

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post #22 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 12:24 AM
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I've been noticing a lot of commercial shops lately use overhead radiant heat. That's the way I think I'm going to go. We'll keep it heated all winter, at least to 5 or 10 degrees. In my mind that has all the advantages of the in-floor heating (recovers fast when you open the door) without all the disadvantages of maintaining a boiler, and the inevitable cracking and leaking.

We recently bought a building from Prairie Steel. The cost difference in materials vs wood wasn't that big of a jump. We'll build it this summer.
One thing I have noticed is that a heated floor will dry off much quicker than if the shop has forced air or radiant heat. If you are bringing equipment in during winter frequently and don't like working on a wet floor that might be something to consider.

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post #23 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 12:39 AM
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We have a 54 by 56 by18, cost 94 K in 2014 ,concrete,heating and floor drain about 35 K, electricial 8 K,if you can face it south or west you will have the sun, 12 by 16, man door, 24 by 16 doors on the front,wish it was taller [20] and the big door wider so when it's starts to snow you can work on the combine with the header on ,We can't in ours ,my biggest regret!!!!.The in floor heat is great when your working under something.[about 100$ a month to heat it ]Good Luck you'll love it.
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post #24 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 12:39 AM
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We built a 70x200x20 this year. 80ft is in floor boiler heat plus 2 overhead radiant tube heaters, with last 120ft cold gravel storage. Put bifold doors on each end 40x18, I wouldn’t want any shorter in height. Put a 26x18 roll up door in between the hot and cold storage. Wanted to go 80ft wide by 22ft high but needed to cut down on cost. Put a 70x40 concrete apron out front with concrete swales down both sides of building for runoff.

We needed a farm shop for many years and wish we’d done it sooner. Was not cheap but dang I don’t miss fixing everything out in the weather. Now I see why neighbors had nice heated shops

As radar mentioned, we put the 40ft wide doors in so we can drive the combines with 35ft headers in.
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post #25 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 01:16 AM
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120x80x 25 high, 2- 40x22 hydraulic doors and one 20x18 over head. in floor heat, tin siding on inside, office and parts storage in a 700sf loft. laundry rm, shower and washroom, water supplied from rain off roof into a 1200 gal tank through filter system. 2 full length floor grates. lights that are brighter than a sunny day. lots of plugs of 120 and 220 power. exhaust system, large concrete pads front and back and asphalt wash bay on side. close to 1,000,000.00 worth every penny.
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post #26 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 09:00 AM
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I built a 40x60 with a 18 foot wall about 8 years ago. If you stick with that size look at a bifold door. Then you don't loose the height for the door. I have one and it opens 18' high. With my lights I only loose about 4" for the fixtures so I can bring the combine in with the hopper and hand rails up without issue. and still have room up top. I run geo thermal floor heat and the recovery is quick as the large block of cement holds a lot of heat.


Only things I would suggest that others have mentioned is to add a 2nd door for cars or smaller tractors etc.


And add a leanto for the mechanical and for your shop bench and welder/toolbox etc...so you are not using up space in the shop. if you have shelves and benches in the main shop you loose floor space for equipment.
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post #27 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 10:02 AM
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Built 64 x100 x 22 three years ago for about 275k
One 55 x20 ft bifold and one 24x18 overhead forced air heat and extra insulation in roof and walls.
Lease whole thing for three year term.
According too my boys best investment ever , maybe not economic but beats working outside summer and winter.
Two combines with header and grain art just drives in during harvest .
Compared with equipment cost nowadays it’s a no brainer.
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post #28 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 10:08 AM
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I have a Re-Ver-Ber-Ray radiant heater in my shop and its got very fast recovery time, neighbor has in floor heat and like SWMan said the floor does dry quicker, but I'm not sure how much quicker to be honest.

When we built our fire station the truck bay is 75'x100', put two radiant tube heaters in there due to cost, floor heat was ridiculously more money. Then again the whole project was ridiculously high when engineers get involved so realistically the floor heat may not be that much more.

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post #29 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 10:45 AM
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Floor heat is a lot $$$ upfront , over 25 years it’s maybe the cheapest.
Forced air is by far the cheapest to install .
Just a choice

My floor is 10 degree in winter thermostat at 15 degrees Celsius
Around edges 6
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post #30 of 90 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 11:18 AM
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Floor heat is a lot $$$ upfront , over 25 years it’s maybe the cheapest.
Forced air is by far the cheapest to install .
Just a choice

My floor is 10 degree in winter thermostat at 15 degrees Celsius
Around edges 6
We now have 6 buildings with in floor heat. Mostly garages. Wouldn't go any other way. Only thing I might change is geothermal, or biomass boilers.

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