Krone Big M part # mystery - The Combine Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Krone Big M part # mystery

This is my dilemma. I have a 2004 Krone Big M II discbine with 3 headers and 23 discs because it's a tine conditioner version as opposed to rollers. Originally this and earlier vintages of all Big M's had narrower pitched gears in the mower decks that had far more teeth on the same diameter gears, the teeth were just much finer and closer together. All of these earlier versions of decks have the holes slightly staggered where the disk bearing assemblies bolt on in order to make each disc turn the appropriate direction for its location. It does this by engaging the disc gear to one of the two gears close to it that are each turning in a different direction.

When the Big M 400 and later versions were released, larger disc bearing assemblies were used with shear pin hubs. The gear teeth are also much larger with fewer teeth on the same diameter gears. However on the newer mower decks the holes are no longer staggered to establish the discs rotation direction, instead the shaft is offset within the actual bearing holder casting that bolts onto the deck to accomplish the same result of opposite rotations.

My problem is our machine has offset holes in its decks but all of the gears were upgraded throughout the decks to the newer stronger gears and the heavier shear pin style hubs. To do this, someone used the new style disc bearing assemblies but the shaft is centred in the bolt circle rather than offset. I understand at least two or more machines were converted like this in North America, this is one of a pair of them that were converted in Idaho.

Krone can not locate a part number for this part, which was likely at one time only a portion of a discontinued kit that was likely only used for in field testing of the new design. Does anybody have experience with this conversion or a part number for this piece that has the gear in the exact center and 17 teeth ?


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Last edited by Haystack; 08-01-2016 at 02:54 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 01:59 AM
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I don't have any experience with a Big M personally, but if it was converted in Idaho, it was probably done by Krone America in Twin Falls Id, maybe they can help. I know of a few Ms in the Magic Valley, and 1 around Blackfoot, so maybe Pioneer Equipment in Blackfoot also.

I watched 2 Ms running together in Minidoka a few years ago, very impressive to watch a field just melt away. If you're interested PM me, I'll give you the owners names if you want, maybe they have some insight.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 12:48 AM
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Any idea where a guy could pickup an older big m either mk1 or early mk2 for not crazy money? Nothing available here in manitoba or even canada for that matter unless you want to spend silly money on a newer one
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mf8140 View Post
Any idea where a guy could pickup an older big m either mk1 or early mk2 for not crazy money? Nothing available here in manitoba or even canada for that matter unless you want to spend silly money on a newer one

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing...el-group/big-m
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 01:19 AM
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Dam that is a bugger indeed, sucks to have a machine brought to its knees by something like that. All I can say is best of luck to you, hope you find what you need and not something you need to basically buy new gear cases either. Discontinued and one of a kind odd ball parts are not something I enjoy either.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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I have been able to get by for a few years by taking a cutting torch to brand new offset mandrels and cutting the bolt holes open out to the edge of the casting and adding more slots like that where there aren’t any holes. In many places on the deck you can rotate the mandrel to find a workable gear mesh and then just time the gears rotational position correctly. But there are a few places where this won’t work if the gear needs to be relocated forward with the new eccentric mandrel the gear will interfere by contacting the front sloped portion of the cutterbar body. You can shuffle a proper one into that position and put a cut up one in a position where it will work, but what pain and annoyance.

It’s really annoying that no one on either side of the Atlantic Ocean has even got a record of this part’s existence.
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