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post #11 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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This might be the crudest slide hammer you've ever seen, but it's incredibly handy for jobs where you would break a normal one. Works great for taking off the inside race of junked bearings and doubles as a pry bar when in use. I started with a broken U bolt that once held an IHC deeptiller spring and made the slide out of an old discer bushing which slides on some square tubing.

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post #12 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 01:40 PM
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This might be the crudest slide hammer you've ever seen, but it's incredibly handy for jobs where you would break a normal one. Works great for taking off the inside race of junked bearings and doubles as a pry bar when in use. I started with a broken U bolt that once held an IHC deeptiller spring and made the slide out of an old discer bushing which slides on some square tubing.
I LIKE IT !!!!! I may need to copy that, but with a chisel on the end for going the other way. Thanks. I'm not as good of aim as I used to be with a separate hammer on the chisel. And I have the bruises to prove it.

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post #13 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm....never thought of putting a chisel end on one, but makes sense. Going this way I push agains a large nut/washer arrangment, going the other way you'd have to do some sturdy welding. Wouldn't even have to start with a Ubolt, but I sure wish I'd kept my college notes on tempering and case hardening.
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post #14 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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I made this little fork back in my hog barn days when I needed a way to remove fans from electric motors to change bearings without destroying the fan. It just clamps in the vice so you can smack the shaft with a punch. I put an old cushion or a stack of feed bags on the floor to catch the motor.
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post #15 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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This one may look like a pile of scrap iron on the shop floor, but I built it to straighten John Deere feeder chain slats without removing them from the machine. The main frame is built from a packer axle off an old IHC drill, and the tabs are cut from Morris cultivator shanks, so it's very strong, and needs to be. It bolts to the feeder chain slat. Depending on which attachment I use, I can use the bolt threads to pull the slat up, down, forward or back. I've started using Grade 8 fine thread bolts with it for extra control when putting the air ratchet on it, and it will gall the threads occasionally, but bolts are cheap compared to pulling the chain out and straightening it. Those slats are tough!
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post #16 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 08:25 PM
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I made this cutting table and put it next to the welding table. It is the same height as the welding table so it basically can be used as one table. Replaceable slats and a sheet metal shoe guard to keep sparks out of my shoes.
The vise is removable from the welding table and there is a swivel arm on the far left of the cutting table, but you can only see a small bit of it. I did not do very good taking the pic.



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post #17 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting idea. When I built my welding bench I put a vice on each side perfectly in line... now if I need to weld something long together I can clamp it in both vices and hold it straight while I work.
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post #18 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 08:37 PM
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Interesting idea. When I built my welding bench I put a vice on each side perfectly in line... now if I need to weld something long together I can clamp it in both vices and hold it straight while I work.
Good idea. I like that better than mine. The swivel arm is my idea of the same thing. I can clamp one end of things to it and position the other in the vise. But 2 vises would sure hold a lot better.


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post #19 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Kind of happened by accident in my case, I inherited a free vice from a hog barn that burned down. I was a little worried that the metal may have been weakened, but so far it's taken a beating (literally) on my welding bench without fail. I did have to do a bunch of grinding on it to mill down the back half of the front section due to warpage. It was curved up enough that the vice wouldn't slip back and forth through the base freely. Hey Buck... you said you had a whole toolbox full of homemade stuff.... where's your pics? I'd like to see that tire stand you're building.... thinking I'm going to need something for removing duals here too.
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post #20 of 122 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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I had to change a rim on a tractor that had been equipped with clamp on dual hardware about 40 years ago. We've owned the tractor since the late 70's and had never had a rim off, so I knew it was going to be hard to get off. Add to this that the retaining nuts had been replaced by hoops for the clamp on dual hardware so conventional wrenches were not going to work. I had a broken shaft under the work bench with a 1 1/8" hex on the end, so I made a forked wrench by grinding a slot in the end and putting a bolt through for support. The nice part is that I was able to use both my homemade breaker bar and a big box end wrench to twist with. Doubles the torque using 2 arms instead of one, and was much easier to hold steady. They weren't easy, but I was able to get them all off. Using a 3/4" impact on it was tempting, but doing it this way I was able to get everything off without breaking anything. The homemade breaker bar is a broken S-K 1/2" ratchet welded solid inside a piece of black pipe cut the right length to fit in my tool box. Yes, I could have gotten warranty on it, but now it's my fav breaker bar.

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