New Holland 855 - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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New Holland 855

Everyone always says that the NH 855 will bale anything. But does anyone have any idea what might cause it to quit? I have had it for about 5 yrs and it worked fine the first 3 yrs I had it and the last couple of yrs I have had issues with it starting a bale. It will pull it into the throat untill it just has so much in there that it can't take anymore then it just piles up in front of the baler till you realize its not taking up hay. No sheared bolts. Everything turning like its suppose to. It just isn't spinning the bale. Then you have to climb in the back and pull all hay out by hand to unplug it. Doesn't do it all the time. You might have to do it 3 times in a row then bale 20 bales before it does it again. But definitly have to do it enough to invent a few words or combine some already existing ones! Chain is practically new, both air bags are new, and I put new pick-up teeth in it thinking that it wasn't moving hay out of way fast enough. All is still the same. I no some people say that these balers don't like long smooth hay or too dry hay but I have baled the same fields for the last 5 yrs with this baler and no issues till the last 2 yrs. I no it's not hay season yet but I would like to know if anyone has any ideas how to fix this before summer. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 07:51 PM
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Slow your engine speed down and keep the ground speed up until the core is formed. Once the core is formed you can speed the engine back up. In 2012, with the dry conditions, core breakup was a problem for even the belt balers. This past year there was also some problems with all the later cuttings because the hay was short. The other option you have is to wait until later in the day to bale when the hay starts to get tougher.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 12:19 AM
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Got your PM, but I'll answer you here so others may benefit as well...but first I have a few questions.

If you have them, first three numbers of the serial number. Denotes period of production as there were some changes along the way.

Beginning air pressure in the bags? Gauge believed to be accurate?

What style of floor roller do you have? Rubber coated, slatted, or the perforated steel covered one? If rubber coated, what shape is the rubber in?

When it plugs, is there hay being drawn up between the apron chain and the stripper roll? How about between the floor roller and tailgate? What kind of shape is the rubber on the stripper roll in?

What kind of material exactly are you trying to bale? If grass or whatever, please identify variety. Is it generally short material?

And lastly, when you open the endgate to clean out the chamber, is the material broken up and chaffy or is it still much as it is in the swath?

There is a reason I ask these questions...like you suggested in your PM, I know a thing or two about these balers

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to both of you for your reply. I will start with the tractor and pto speed. I have tried all this in different orders and none of it seems to help anything. Now to the baler questions...S/N 786170. I usually run 55-60lbs of air in the bags as I do not like to handle loose bales. The guage should be good assuming it was when I put it on new when I did the air bags last year. The floor roller I'm assuming is the metal type that has flat metal bars welded all the way around the roller about 4-5" apart. The bars are straight across the roller not at an angle or anyting. They are approx 1" wide and maybe 1/2" thick. There is a rubber roller above it and a litttle to the front of the baler from the floor roller that I am assuming is the stripper roller. It appears to be in pretty good shape. No visible chunks, tears, or threads showing. Basically really smooth all the way across and around. When it plugs it generally just stops up on top of the pick-up reel right between the rubber roller and the floor roller. Sometimes it will spit hay out over the top of the throat of baler on top of the pto housing. But it only does that when I don't realize it's plugged up and there is no where else for it to go. We usually bale fescue, orchard grass, or clover. Sometimes a mixture of all sometimes just the fescue. Fescue is pretty dominant here so it grows whether you want it or not. The problem usually just occurs on 1st cutting when it is long. When I clean out the chamber the hay I take out of it is basically the same as it was when it went in. Thanks again.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 01:07 PM
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Been looking for this thread for several days, maybe if one of the mods reads this you can move it to Haying, thanks.

Back to your baler...you have a later one with the slated floor roller which is the most aggressive one. But now that I know what you're baling, pretty sure therein lies your troubles, not with your baler.

It is the material you are baling that is causing your issues. As mentioned previously, lowering baler speed while increasing ground speed can help get the core rolling. Reduce your air pressure in the bags under those conditions. That will help a lot too. The few extra pounds you get in your bales from the higher pressure IMO isn't worth the strain and added wear on your baler. I got over 30 thousand plus out of my original chains and everything, but then only run about 50 psi max starting pressure, and if things were really dry then occasionally would push upwards to 60. If you want heavy bales, reducing ground speed will help. I usually run mine around 6 to 7 MPH and still get a @1400 pound bale. For straw or such slippery stuff, back it right off to 40 or even bit less, and like the other fellow said, lower engine speed and increase ground speed till the size indicator begins to rise, then full RPM and go.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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So it will not cause the baler to choke up if you pick up the ground speed but slow down the baler speed. Mike10 spoke of this also and I had said that I had tried this but maybe I tried it the other way by slowing down the ground speed and speeding up pto thinking that this would turn the baler faster while giving it time to bring in the hay. The way you are saying to do it makes me question how will the baler start the core and keep the hay out of the way if you are driving faster and bringing in more hay. Not saying it will not work, I'm just wondering if you can explain how it will. Just seems like it will plug if tractor speeds up while baler slows down.

On the roller it has those flat bars welded all the way across. Do you think it would help to hit those with a grinder to sharpen the edges? The way they are right now the corners are kind of rounded off.

You said you had trouble finding this post cause it is not in haying. How do I go about moving it over to haying? It's kind of hard to find anything on here. I would have thought when I am the one that started a post that it would pull up under my name but even when I want to check on it I have to go to the search bar and I just typr in "NH 855" and scroll through till I find mine.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 08:09 PM
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What happens when the hay is dry and/or short is the hay will not start to turn in on itself to form a core. It floats in the core forming area. The faster the baler is run in these conditions the more turbulence in the core area that breaks the core up.

If you have heavy windrows then just slowing the engine speed down may be all you need to do. I have been in fields where we cut the engine speed 1/3 to 1/2 of pto speed to get the core to form. It is mostly trial and error to see what speed works for you. The reason you would gear up is you need enough hay in the baler to help get the bale to rotate and keep it rotating before it starts to break apart. Once you get a good core formed you should be able to throttle back up. You just have to see what speed works for you.

Since I am not far from your location I know what the situation was like last year with the extreme dry weather. This years problems came from the number of cuttings that were possible. The first cutting was not too bad as far as core breakdown, but I still saw it happen where the hay was allowed to lay too long. The later cuttings made excellent hay but it was short and no stems to help hold the core together. Every year is different. I was in one field where the core would break up on the east side but on the west side of the field we had no problem.

I know some of the people I have told to do this think that I am nuts, but they try it and I can not think of a single person who could not get their hay baled.

Throttle down and shift up or wait until later in the day when the hay starts getting a little tougher.

Last edited by mike10; 01-30-2014 at 08:19 PM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 09:42 PM
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I have an 855 and I am having trouble with pipes bending as I am starting baling. Core doesnt seem to be exploding, i just get clunking sound suddenly and end up with several bent pipes. The hay is short, thin and dry but i made seven bales before problems started. I can't find any problems and could use any help possible.

Last edited by Don72; 07-28-2016 at 09:46 PM. Reason: grammar
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 10:49 PM
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New holland 855 round chain baler-
I've went one round and got one bale for this year, kicked out the bale and went to start my next one and the pick up reel won't turn. The chain turns when I go to kick the bale out but nothing turns when I try to start a new bale, what could be wrong, has anyone had this happen to them? Thanks
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Today, 12:10 AM
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A buddy has a 855 that wont start a bale in Alfalfa. any suggestions? I dont have his SN, but I know it has the rubber roller, and I believe its in good condition.


Our farm purchases a combine soley on its ability to do an excellent job in all of our crops, while being fuel efficient, reliable, ruggedly built, and easy to repair. That is why we choose a Gleaner.
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