Cr top feederhouse bearing help! - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Cr top feederhouse bearing help!

Has anyone here changed one? do I have to remove the feederhouse to do it? feederhouse was making a loud noise, went and looked and shaft was spinning in about a half inch loop with the collar feeling very hot. cant actually see the bearing because of the slip clutch though. asp trap. any help apreciated


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 10:43 PM
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We changed ours on both sides but had the feederhouse removed. So I can't comment on whether it can be done without doing that. Maybe removing a tire would work.

When we removed the feederhouse we used a 3 point hitch off the tractor to suspend it. The reason we removed and redone the feeder is that we went to a 4 strand feeder chain and threw out the 3 strand. So we had to redrill and tap the spots where the sacrificial poly was laying and also reposition the "new" tin shields across the top and drill and tap for that. Feederhouse did not come off that hard. We changed sprockets and thought it wise to put new bearings in at the same time since the shaft has to be removed. I was impressed with the bearings as they were double tapered/roller "timken" bearings on each side so should be able to take a lot of guff! Macdon uses that bearing style in their draper roller which makes them last very long!

I think I would remove feederhouse, belt, a couple of hoses, top pins, ram pins a few wires and with a 3 pt hitch and you have it free to remove from the machine to work on it in the shop if your shop isn't big enough.


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Last edited by RunninREDharD; 08-14-2017 at 10:47 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 12:19 AM
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We changed ours on both sides but had the feederhouse removed. So I can't comment on whether it can be done without doing that. Maybe removing a tire would work.

When we removed the feederhouse we used a 3 point hitch off the tractor to suspend it. The reason we removed and redone the feeder is that we went to a 4 strand feeder chain and threw out the 3 strand. So we had to redrill and tap the spots where the sacrificial poly was laying and also reposition the "new" tin shields across the top and drill and tap for that. Feederhouse did not come off that hard. We changed sprockets and thought it wise to put new bearings in at the same time since the shaft has to be removed. I was impressed with the bearings as they were double tapered/roller "timken" bearings on each side so should be able to take a lot of guff! Macdon uses that bearing style in their draper roller which makes them last very long!

I think I would remove feederhouse, belt, a couple of hoses, top pins, ram pins a few wires and with a 3 pt hitch and you have it free to remove from the machine to work on it in the shop if your shop isn't big enough.
How hard was it to change to the 4 strand overall? And do you think going from 3 to 4 was worth it?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Well I hope these bearings are real special, 500 for the housing and 100 bucks a pop for the bearings

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2017, 10:57 AM
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Bearing are special as they are double taper. Did the mod to 4 strand and it was a pain. Difficult to drill and tap the small holes. Took a day. Never ran a 3 strand but the other combine had a 4 strand.

The reason we went to 4 stand is for rock damage to slats. Shorter slats mean less damage! I can't really comment on whether was worth it or not. A lot of work to change (drilling new holes for poly strips biggest challenge and the tin shields at top end of feederhouse covering shaft)

Still had some issues with feeder chain jumping a cog. Took someone's elses advice on combine forum and loosened off all slats and then retightened straightening out each slat across the chains. Hope that is going to reset and help!

Interestingly, we found a lot of loose slats on the OEM feeder chain which was new last year when we reset it parallel. I bought another feeder chain for the other combine as standby. Interestingly it has a sticker on it that says "torque verified"! I wonder if that wasn't an issue - why the sticker now? Didn't see that before!

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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Bearing are special as they are double taper.

Interestingly, we found a lot of loose slats on the OEM feeder chain which was new last year when we reset it parallel. I bought another feeder chain for the other combine as standby. Interestingly it has a sticker on it that says "torque verified"! I wonder if that wasn't an issue - why the sticker now? Didn't see that before!
I guess you have a 9070 right? Mine is a 970 and it's just a standard ball bearing, just with some dumb metric measurement and a tin seal instead of rubber. And an undersized ball bearing at that. Had to torch one off, and it had been done before, shaft was all nicked up. Previous guy wrecked the lock collar so one bearing had spun. Brought the shaft away to be welded up and lathed down, so its all good now. Had about 14 hours into it by all said and done, but I guess I'm a bit of a rookie on this stuff.

I have a harvest services chain, and it jumped 3 times right away, but after I'd hopped it straight a few times it stayed

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 08:45 AM
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I have a harvest services chain, and it jumped 3 times right away, but after I'd hopped it straight a few times it stayed[/QUOTE]

I wonder why some machines have this problem of chain jumping and others don't seem to. I have the three strand chain on a 9070 and not once has it jumped a tooth in over 1000 hrs.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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I'm wonder if it came from rocks? It only happened on the lodged canola I was scraping off the ground, it never did while doing rolled soybeans.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 11:27 AM
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I guess you have a 9070 right? Mine is a 970 and it's just a standard ball bearing, just with some dumb metric measurement and a tin seal instead of rubber. And an undersized ball bearing at that. Had to torch one off, and it had been done before, shaft was all nicked up. Previous guy wrecked the lock collar so one bearing had spun. Brought the shaft away to be welded up and lathed down, so its all good now. Had about 14 hours into it by all said and done, but I guess I'm a bit of a rookie on this stuff.

I have a harvest services chain, and it jumped 3 times right away, but after I'd hopped it straight a few times it stayed
We have a 9080 and 8090 but assume would be same in 9070. A ball bearing (metric) mustn't be the same as what I got. It is definitely a metric bearing! I believe it was a double tapered roller bearing - haven't looked up the number but they must have changed the design as we have pretty beefy expensive bearings on that shaft.

IMO, I have major issues with kochia patches in fields and I assume my chain jumping originates from there. Don't have any canola so no experience other than that a canola plant looks like a kochia weed somewhat! Thick stocks and love to wind around things in the feeder chain.

My theory on this is that those "stocks" can wedge between the tin shield (very flimsy) and the driver gear for the feeder chain. Some weeds wedge and then some more come along catch and force the chain off the sprocket and it moves out of time.

Interestingly, my brother was following a combine on a flat deck trailer (John Deere). He said he could see that feeder chain probably was 2 links out of time! So I think it is not only NH that has a problem - they all have it if they care to admit it!

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RunninREDharD View Post
We have a 9080 and 8090 but assume would be same in 9070. A ball bearing (metric) mustn't be the same as what I got. It is definitely a metric bearing! I believe it was a double tapered roller bearing - haven't looked up the number but they must have changed the design as we have pretty beefy expensive bearings on that shaft.

IMO, I have major issues with kochia patches in fields and I assume my chain jumping originates from there. Don't have any canola so no experience other than that a canola plant looks like a kochia weed somewhat! Thick stocks and love to wind around things in the feeder chain.

My theory on this is that those "stocks" can wedge between the tin shield (very flimsy) and the driver gear for the feeder chain. Some weeds wedge and then some more come along catch and force the chain off the sprocket and it moves out of time.

Interestingly, my brother was following a combine on a flat deck trailer (John Deere). He said he could see that feeder chain probably was 2 links out of time! So I think it is not only NH that has a problem - they all have it if they care to admit it!

I wonder if the new bearing and housing would fit on the old shaft? Too late now but I just checked and the whole double taper housing is only about 40 dollars more then just the old style ball bearing without housing.

whats the advantage of those tin shields are over a stripper bar like case had? Never seen the case wrap, and in the 5 years i drove cart for a case it never jumped a link.
Did eat feeder chains as quick as the rest of them though.i wonder when they will think of something better then a feeder chain, it's about time for a change


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