Accelerator Roll Shaft - The Combine Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Accelerator Roll Shaft

Was greasing the combine this evening an doing maintenance. Found a chunk gone from the pulley on right side of the rear accelerator roll shaft. Key way wallowed out in shaft. Need new shaft an pulley. Had similar deal happen on my R72 once. Real pain to replace and I'm guessing at least $2500 in parts. Why it happened is the big question. Nut was tight but you can see where it looks like the washer has worn into the face of the pulley like it has been loose

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 12:51 AM
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Had that happen on a late model 72 on ours the shaft was bent a bit.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 09:05 AM
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If shaft runs true buy a Belzona kit and a new pulley. I used belzona to fix the shaft under the gear on opposite end of that shaft and chopper pulley shaft on a previous combine. Make sure everything runs true before you use it and use the release it comes with in kit for inside of pulley or bearing so it can be taking apart. It’s a field fix and have never had a failure using it.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
If shaft runs true buy a Belzona kit and a new pulley. I used belzona to fix the shaft under the gear on opposite end of that shaft and chopper pulley shaft on a previous combine. Make sure everything runs true before you use it and use the release it comes with in kit for inside of pulley or bearing so it can be taking apart. Itís a field fix and have never had a failure using it.
Snipe, I am not familiar with the Belzona kit, I googled it and see what it is I think. How would this work in my case where the key way in the shaft is wallowed out? Do you just put the key in with some of this stuff and it sets up in the area where the key way is supposed to be and creates the new key way? I would rather have a tooth pulled than pull this shaft out and replace it but don't want to have it fail me during harvest. There is a pretty fair load on this shaft, I guess at the end of the day it is driving the chopper, accelerator rolls and distribution augers. The clean grain and return grain elevators are driven off the pulley but the load of them is not going through the shaft or on the key way of the shaft.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 12:15 AM
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Yes use a new key. Belzona is a epoxy and I have never had it fail it’s an amazing product.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 12:56 PM
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i have used it on the worn half of 8070 steering spindles. Yes just worn half. 4-500hrs and still no slop in spindles.Not logical but seems to work.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I chomped and put in a new shaft. I would like to try this belzona kit some time. If it were just a bearing out and wear on the shaft i would tried it or something of the same nature but since the key way was jacked and the torque on the shaft I didn't want to have a failure during harvest. It is a poor design by Gleaner, high torque area, there needs to be a double key (180 degrees of each other), tapered hub or a splined shaft. The little 1.25'' long 3/8 key can't stand the pressure if everything isn't 100%. I bought 2 keys, i tapered one to fit all the way to the back of the key way and then cut the 2nd key off so it was 1'' long and put it in there as well. The issue I think on this one is the way the pulley is made the "nose" that sticks out past the actual pulley is where the key is at and this is also the weakest part of the pulley and it chunked part of the nose off. I now am using the entire length of the key way in the shaft and the pulley since I added the 2nd key 1'' long. I hated to do it but the pulley slides on so easy there is a little "slop" between it and the shaft, I put some green loctite on the shaft before I slid the pulley on. Be **** getting off if I ever have to.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 10:07 AM
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By the look of exposed threads i believe the spacer between bearing and shoulder of shaft was missing or crushed from a previous bearing failure wearing it thin. It is important to torque to 350 ft lbs especially with the demand of the chopper these days. The pulley needs to protrude beyond end of shaft and washer not distorted or torque will not be effective to hold things tight. I agree this area needs upgraded and like how tin man addressed the area.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 08:23 PM
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I feel that the flat washers need to be thicker as Dan says they hold the tension on things and been heavy handed tightening the bolts bends the washers. I did the front feeder house shaft last harvest and the main factor was over tightening the bolt on the slip clutch and Agco using a non Pfafnir bearing there so as soon as the bearing started to lose performance it was not held tight on the shaft and of course stuffed the shaft.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 06:34 PM
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So I’m not the only one... Had to replace the shaft and pulley during harvest last year on my 62. I started to smell something hot so got out and found the pulley smoking. Figured the bearing went bad until I took the nut off. The key was round and key way was almost 1/2 inch wide. Once the belts were off the pulley practically fell off. I still can’t believe it had no sign until taken apart.

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