Feeder beater troubles - The Combine Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Feeder beater troubles

I'm about to go nuts trying to get some dicamba stunted beans cut. It's an 84 L3 & I'm constantly plugging the feeder beater. The slip clutch is properly shimmed with 6 springs.It has a St. John's enclosed cylinder & 9 bar concave with about 1300 acres on it . Bars look very good. Running 3/8" cylinder gap at 600 rpm. Auger is up & all the way forward: reel as low as possible and back to auger.Beater fingers are about 1" off bottom in the middle position. Would it help to raise the beater and maybe retract the fingers sooner(all the way clockwise)? Also, does anyone know what bars are used on the St. John's cylinder? The left & right bars are 18" long with 3 holes & look like forward & reverse bars off rotary. The center one is 13" long with 2 holes. I can't find anything like this. I thought the paper that came with it said to use R62 bars, but parts don't show anything like my center bar. Any ideas? The bars are narrow spaced & I would kike to use wide spaced. Maybe help feeding? Just do corn & beans. Old Gleaner is doing an awesome job except for those shorties! Thanks for your help.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 11:22 PM
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Are the jaws in the slip clutch good? In some crops and varieties it would happen. I carried an anti slip, slip clutch under the seat in case (welded jaws)

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to say header is a 320 flex. silverrod: just put on new jaws this morning. I tried shimming the clutch to lock it up. Broke the chain.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 11:32 PM
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Fixed or floating beater? Mine is fixed and operates better now that I raised it from what it was at when we got it. Used to plug all the time in beans.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed beater, gleaner l. How much did you raise yours?
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 10:12 AM
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The opening under the beater is 4 1/4". Not sure if the adjuster is the same on your L3, there's 3/4" gap left to open up more on my adjuster. Before opening up the gap it would constantly get jammed with corn cobs as well.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 11:35 AM
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My L2 has fixed beater and I run it at max height all the time. I have changed where the fingers retract but haven't found a lot of difference. Is the wad of beans plugging the beater in the same place all the time? Sometimes I found it to be at either end and the wad is between the finger and housing sidewall. When that happens I remove the outer fingers. That is against advice from others on the forum but it works for me. Have you tried to change where the fingers on header auger retract? Is the flighting worn on the auger or bent someplace? That will cause a slug resulting in the irritating tat-tat-tat-tat of the slip clutch.

Uneven header flow is generally the problem and the feeder beater can't deal with it. If there was a reliable reverser made it wouldn't be so darn frustrating. When you move the auger forward make sure to adjust the retarder extensions as well. Run the header as low as possible to minimize the angle of the feather sheets. If the beans are building at or just behind the knife then an air bar/reel is supposed to cure the problem. Another spot of trouble I have is the strip just ahead of the auger that holds the feather sheet down. It's about 3/16" thick and I have wondered it I should remove it and add some extra hold down bolts instead.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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It is usually packed tighter at the ends, but I'm not sure that it isn't the auger jamming more in before I can shut it off. My beater was down pretty far. With fingers at max extension, they were just off the bottom. I raised the beater up near max this afternoon & set the fingers for early retraction (fully clockwise). I ground the flighting a couple years ago & it's still good. What are the retarder extensions? Never heard of them. When the auger fingers are pointing straight back, they are fully retracted.In normal height beans I can run 4 mph ok. I have some that got hit with dicamba drift that are really stunted, about 1 foot tall. These are what are giving me fits. Maybe raising the beater will do it. Rain tomorrow so I'll have to wait to try it. If not ,I'll try taking off the outside fingers.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 05:06 AM
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Ran L-2's and 3's for years and usually found a problem like yours was due to worn cylinder bars not grabbing material away from the beater but rather pounding it forward and jamming the beater. Not familiar with the St Johns setup though.....could that be the problem? Had both fixed and floating beaters and found little difference between the them.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 07:31 AM
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The retarder extensions are the strips that sit behind the auger across the width of the header. They are supposed to stop material from coming around the auger. If I see slug of beans come over the auger, most times it will be just enough extra material to plug the feed beater. In a good crop with even flow it generally isn't an issue. We move the auger forward to grab the beans sooner but then create another problem with extra space in behind. I also took the channel off the stone trap door in case it was holding back the beans a bit. I replaced my cylinder bars a few years ago with a set from Trimpe's. They take a worn set of wide spaced bars and build them up with tungsten. I haven't noticed much wear on them yet and are definitely more aggressive than the standard ones.



Has anyone tried to speed up the feed beater with a smaller driven sprocket? I've increased the header drive speed sometimes but that gets a bit hard on the knife drive and has the auger spinning too fast.

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