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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 82 model 1440 and just purchased a 2003 model 1010 22.5 header, with reel fore and aft. I was wondering if I should just add another double piloted valve to the valve stack for the fore and aft or would a valve stack from a newer style machine be a better way to go.
I also was wondering if anyone has put a 2300 series propulsion lever in a 1400 machine.
 

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Here's a thought, why not let your reel, "up and down" do the work of "fore and aft"and leave it hooked up to the one that you use most? I very seldom change either one, once I've got them set to my likeing.

2300 series propulsion lever I bet would be a nightmare and I would think impossible on a 1440!
I just noticed, you do have the electric over hydraulic controls so maybe it could be done.....good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks trakman I know that these may seem complicated or a nightmare I guess it's just my aircraft mechanic brain that thinks a little different.
 

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I think the only problem with using the reel up/down for the fore/aft would be that the fore/aft uses double action hydraulics and the up/down is a single action setup. So you might be better off to find a new vavle stack from a newer machine to make this work. Otherwise I think that trakman would be right that once you get one set, you usually don't have to worry about changing either very often. Just my 2 cents...
 

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you can add one extra section to the valve stack and run it with switches in the cab same as you would on a newer machine all you need is longer bolts for the stack, the switch the wiring and the hoses to the header. You could get a valve from a wrecker if you find a combine with fore and aft, take the bolts and the valve. If not an unloader valve would work just make longer bolts from threaded rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I guess what my real question should have been is the valve stack on a 1600 series a better enough stack to justify replacing the whole stack or is the one on the 1400 good enough to just add the double piloted valve on it?

The propulsion lever was just a way to add the switch to the system. I could just add a switch in the panel next to the reel up down switch as there are provisions in the panel to mount a switch in there. Normally a person wouldn't use the fore and aft very much but when the grain is down and lodged I have adjusted on the go in my neighbors 1660. My dryland fields have a lot of rolling hills that causes you to do a lot of header and reel adjustments, until it feels like your eye balls are going to fall out of your head. Looking at the propulsion lever it looks like you would have to cut the fork off the bottom of it and replace it with the one off of the 1440. When I was looking at the original lever it appears that the wall of the lever is almost wore through where it rubs on the slot. So I was thinking if I had to replace it I would just upgrade it anyway. Although I have found that the junk yards don't have very many of these.
 

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I will tell you what I did to my '79 1440 when I bought a 1020 with fore/aft. I mounted a fasse hydraulic multiplier to the back side of the valve comparment on the left side of combine. Took the plug out of the unused side of the reel raise valve. Run two hoses from the reel raise valve to fasse valve. From there one side I run two hoses under and to the front long enough to reach header for the fore/aft. Other side of fasse valve plugged the correct side that was plugged on the combine and plumbed the orignal reel raise outlet to the other. Mounted the control box that determines which side of the fasse valve is active on the front of console in cab. flip switch one way you have reel lift, flip it the other and have fore/aft. all with the reel lift button,or in my case lever. when not in use i put the swich in the middle "off" position so the fasse valve would last longer. fasee valve cost $500 and had $30-50 in hoses and fittings but it work wonderful. Had a guy that wants me to mount one in his 2166 that didnt come with fore/aft.
 
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