The Combine Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 93 1020 flex head on a 90 1680. Last year I was combining soybeans and I couldn't seem to get the auto header height to work correct. I put the new potentiometer meter on. But the head wouldn't stay still. Even on flat ground the head wouldn't stay in one spot it was always moving up and down. I set the sensitivity knob. I turned it up until the head raised. That seems to work correct. but then combining I would turn the sensitivity knob all the way down to shut it off and the head would still be real sensitive. It seems like I will let my feeder house down and it will go down nice and easy until about the bottom and then it will drop. Any ideas would help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
push your header all the way down hold for 5 -10 seconds then raise, it should stop a foot off the ground then continue to raise, also check your center sensor right by your hydraulic hookups make sure that is moving freely and not jammed up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Here is what I ran into about 6 years ago. Purchased a next to new header. It had the "Clear Pot" , I mean the plastic is a clear cover. This is the wrong pot for my 1660 and the header did just what you are talking about....up and down. I changed it out to the "BLACK POT" and all is well. Have you installed the "rod kit" for the Pot? this is a better system then the cable with the spring. Later H.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Hammer is right The rod kit for the 1020 headers is way better than the cable But remeber when or if you get this kit you will also need the jumper harness for it to work correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
1666 CWS,
Thank you for the reminder of the jumper harness....forgot that I did need that also. H

I give you a little hint about cutting beans. If you have an occational gopher pile in your field I have used the AHHC dial to make the header raise up over the piles. How do you do it? Well, just before you reach them devils, while harvesting, turn the dial all the way clockwise and the header will responed (raise UP) much faster that using the switch on the Hydro. Then turn back to your previous setting. Try it sometime in a area that you have harvested. have a good day. Snow here on OCT 15.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I"ve heard mention of the rod update, How is it better than the cable I currently have on my 1020? Mine has never seized up or caused any problems.

Just asking in case I'm missing something important.

Brad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Brad, in my opinion, it responds faster and alot smoother,takes less pressure to work it. Well worth the money. The header doesn't seem to drag as much, even in wet ground, which will be a big plus in the days to come......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah I put the rod kit on as well. but u do need the jumper harness? why can't u just cross the wires? what I ended up doing was I turned my needle valve in to slow down the drop of the feederhouse. That seems to help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
620 Posts
Jumper harness converts the signal from the pot on the header to work with older axial flow combines. The actual wires in the harness have resistors or something built into them and change the signal output so the pot change is not required. Mechanical linkage kit makes a 1020 work much better than the old cable for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I ran into the same thing but the other direction. I bought 2166 and tried to use a 1020 from an older combine. I had the black POT and finally called dealer. I bought the clear POT and it works now. I would check that first.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top