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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having some trouble with throwing beans over in the combine. It looks as if some are going through the beater, and some are going over sieves. Fan and rotor are spinning roughly what the book says. They are definetly knocking the beans out, but not getting good seperation. Currently running keystocks and large wire concaves with coverplates.
As far as the sieves, the bottom was about .5 inch and the top was pretty wide as well. I tried fiddling with the fan speed and sieve adjustments but it never got better, only worse. Is it possible the stems are just too wet? Lots of green pods, but SDS has things ripening so unevenly that waiting means that most of the beans will be way too dry.
 

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We always used to throw a few peas over the 1460. You could here them hit the kirby and they would hit the truck when you drove beside. No matter what we did, this went on for years. I think it seemed worse than it was. Our next combines never did this with the long sieves. Not sure if that is the difference. Good Luck.
 

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Why are you running cover plates? We put disrupter blocks in the grates helped tremendously no more bean loss and much lower corn loss
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why are you running cover plates? We put disrupter blocks in the grates helped tremendously no more bean loss and much lower corn loss
We have heard that its better to run coverplates because it does away with exchanging concaves or pulling wires and it thrashes beans better. Marvin Gorden is a very respectable guy as far as i am concerned so far and he suggested them. Sure, hes selling them, but he isnt afraid to say what wont work regardless of whether it means he wont make a sale or not. Ive heard disrulters are a good idea though. Wouldnt mind trying them and them just switch back to regular for wheat because we keep the straw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We always used to throw a few peas over the 1460. You could here them hit the kirby and they would hit the truck when you drove beside. No matter what we did, this went on for years. I think it seemed worse than it was. Our next combines never did this with the long sieves. Not sure if that is the difference. Good Luck.
Its hard to tell being that it was a completely different combine. Too many variables but i would bet that sieves would help. To bad you can just add extensions.... :)
 

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What kind of rotor does yours have? Ours was upgraded to a specialty rotor sometime before we got it. Always used large wire concaves and no cover plates, might have had a couple more pods in tank but never seemed to lose any out the back. Keystock grates on ours have the disruptors in and every other row of rasp bars on the back half of the rotor have spiked bars. Probably not the best setup for saving wheat straw but it should get the beans and corn out...

Last year we changed concaves, they aren't OEM anymore but spacing is about the same as the large wire. Only time I think I lost any was when we started up after a couple wet days and the pods were still tough. Found a few beans between the chopper bottom and the stationary knife set but the other fields didn't seem to have any loss.

Might end up doing wheat with ours in a year or two and saving straw, hope to have different grates for that but curious as to what would happen if all the rear bars were spiked with no disruptors in the grates if it would work as well or if that would just destroy straw anyways?
 

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Im having the same problem with my 1660. Standard rotor. Large wire with all wires and key stocks. What settings should I change first? Never had this problem in the past but have been running close to 70 bu for the first time.
 

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Forgot to add that the vanes in the rotor cage on ours are in slow since its set up for doing corn. Never changed them on ours because the previous guy had them set that way. I know its a bit more work to change them on a 1400 machine and it will take more power if you decide to move them to slow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
What kind of rotor does yours have? Ours was upgraded to a specialty rotor sometime before we got it. Always used large wire concaves and no cover plates, might have had a couple more pods in tank but never seemed to lose any out the back. Keystock grates on ours have the disruptors in and every other row of rasp bars on the back half of the rotor have spiked bars. Probably not the best setup for saving wheat straw but it should get the beans and corn out...

Last year we changed concaves, they aren't OEM anymore but spacing is about the same as the large wire. Only time I think I lost any was when we started up after a couple wet days and the pods were still tough. Found a few beans between the chopper bottom and the stationary knife set but the other fields didn't seem to have any loss.

Might end up doing wheat with ours in a year or two and saving straw, hope to have different grates for that but curious as to what would happen if all the rear bars were spiked with no disruptors in the grates if it would work as well or if that would just destroy straw anyways?
Well, we are running a "Specialty," but have fitted it with gorden bars, cover plates, and a deflector. I am currently trying to convince boss man to get disrupters and rice spikes for the rear and just switch over to gorden seperator bars for wheat since we keep straw.

As to your question, the specialty rotor alone pulverizes straw and it loses a lot of its insulation qualities. Ive heard rice spikes will turn it into basically nothing worth baling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Forgot to add that the vanes in the rotor cage on ours are in slow since its set up for doing corn. Never changed them on ours because the previous guy had them set that way. I know its a bit more work to change them on a 1400 machine and it will take more power if you decide to move them to slow.
Yes, I cant believe how hard they can be. Im 18, 5' 10", and 180 lbs. I can just barely adjust the top ones with the rotor out by myself. That being said, the top bolts dont need readjusted, but the bottoms are still NO fun. I may have to sometime, but I think that worn out engine cant take the extra power draw at the moment. Maybe Ill try to find a 1600 series with the cummins engine and do a swap, or rebuild the current engine and hope that itll up the HP a few points.

Those Gorden bars and kile flights sure help out with the power issue though. I can believe how smoothly beans are going through this year and with this SDS so bad, its butter beans galore. We can go 3.5 mph on a 20 ft head when stems are still green compared to not even being able to cut them at this stage last year. Its definitely night and day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Im having the same problem with my 1660. Standard rotor. Large wire with all wires and key stocks. What settings should I change first? Never had this problem in the past but have been running close to 70 bu for the first time.
I hear ya. Some around here are throwing that number "80" around...you didnt hear it from me.

But seriously, the bean crop is huge around here and the SDS, while hurting yields pretty bad, is still not preventing us from having record crops. We cut 40 acres of the worst SDS stuff we have with lots of butter beans, tiny beans, and already popping beans, and it still made over 53 bushel. Never seen a field you could get butter beans and have beans hitting your windshield at the same time, but Ive only taken this seriously for the past couple of years when I realized life was sneaking up pretty quick.

Anyways, throwing over beans just isnt a option, or at least not in the proportions that you can throw corn over. So if you find anything out, let me know. I think longer sieves, rice spikes, disrupter bars, and a shark tooth grate may be the only options to help us out and longer sieves isn't feasable unless you wanna do some custom fab work on the rear end of your combine to accommodate that...
 

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Well, we are running a "Specialty," but have fitted it with gorden bars, cover plates, and a deflector. I am currently trying to convince boss man to get disrupters and rice spikes for the rear and just switch over to gorden seperator bars for wheat since we keep straw.
Those Gorden bars and kile flights sure help out with the power issue though. I can believe how smoothly beans are going through this year and with this SDS so bad, its butter beans galore. We can go 3.5 mph on a 20 ft head when stems are still green compared to not even being able to cut them at this stage last year. Its definitely night and day.
About the same speed I can run at but most of the bars are OEM still but replaced 12 with Kile K506 bars on rows 2-5. A few of the old bars had chips missing on the ramp area so that's why. Dealer here hasn't sold any Gorden bars in several years and last time they did they were rather spendy, otherwise I would have put those in.

Concaves are from Kuchar, can run a clump of green volunteer corn through and not even hear it... Still have the old elephant ears on front of rotor but planning on upgrading in a year or two but going to be doing more rasp bars first. Those concaves were a night and day difference in beans, seem to be doing just as well but stuff flows through easier. They make grates too, but still got a little life left in those yet.

Our engine seems in great shape for having 5100+ hours on it, only thing that slowed me down last week before it rained was the dumb fuel supply pump started to go, got a new one and going to be putting it on today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
About the same speed I can run at but most of the bars are OEM still but replaced 12 with Kile K506 bars on rows 2-5. A few of the old bars had chips missing on the ramp area so that's why. Dealer here hasn't sold any Gorden bars in several years and last time they did they were rather spendy, otherwise I would have put those in.

Concaves are from Kuchar, can run a clump of green volunteer corn through and not even hear it... Still have the old elephant ears on front of rotor but planning on upgrading in a year or two but going to be doing more rasp bars first. Those concaves were a night and day difference in beans, seem to be doing just as well but stuff flows through easier. They make grates too, but still got a little life left in those yet.

Our engine seems in great shape for having 5100+ hours on it, only thing that slowed me down last week before it rained was the dumb fuel supply pump started to go, got a new one and going to be putting it on today.
I think around 80$ a bar is what we paid for gorden. I don't remember for sure. If you do happen to go with them, I think youll be more than satisfied. Other than that, definitely try to get the kile rotor flights. They have helped soo much. You might as well go ahead and replace the vanes as well with the heavier ones if they are worn at all. Some of ours were flattened and that coupled with worn elephant ears was death to how efficient we were.
 

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None of our vanes are flattened, have to see if they are already heavier ones or not... Previous owner must have picked up one heck of a rock because the concaves, cone, rotor, and 2 of 3 grates all look a lot newer than anything else inside. (Well, the concaves that were in it had part #'s written on them anyhow, but they were worn out when we changed them.)

What maturity beans are you harvesting? All ours are 2.0 - 2.2, and the SDS ratings only just start at around that range, most beans that die early here are from white mold. The cool and wet growing season along with an early frost made the beans very uneven, got dry brown stems and pods, green stems with dry pods, yellow stems with wet pods, brown stems with wet pods, and all sorts of ranges in between.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
None of our vanes are flattened, have to see if they are already heavier ones or not... Previous owner must have picked up one heck of a rock because the concaves, cone, rotor, and 2 of 3 grates all look a lot newer than anything else inside. (Well, the concaves that were in it had part #'s written on them anyhow, but they were worn out when we changed them.)

What maturity beans are you harvesting? All ours are 2.0 - 2.2, and the SDS ratings only just start at around that range, most beans that die early here are from white mold. The cool and wet growing season along with an early frost made the beans very uneven, got dry brown stems and pods, green stems with dry pods, yellow stems with wet pods, brown stems with wet pods, and all sorts of ranges in between.
I think 3.0-3.4s (I live in MO). We are getting quite a bit of mold as well, but its mainly in the flooded fields on the river. They are terrible to thresh out. I gave up on them for now because they just trash my sample. The pods are like rubber. We need a real good hard frost around here to even things up.
 
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