1680 Rear Axle Reinforcing.
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We have a 1480 which has the same axle issues. We do not worry about any row crops so we extended the axle all the way out and welded on some supports to the top and bottom. We used 3 x 3/8 strap welded top and bottom from the non-adjustable center section out 18" to the smaller adjustable section that slides in and out. We have a redekop chopper on the back and even with that extra weight we have had no problems with the weak axle.
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1,994 Posts
I've heard about this but never seen where they break is it on the round tube that mounts into the pivit or is the rectangular tubing that the outter axles mount into?
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I think it was Jon Hagen that coined the phrase, or at least he was the first I heard state the phrase "sitting on the straw spreaders" syndrome.
The issue is not limited to the 1680, it all the way to the 2388 at least. Same axle.
Mine cracked aroun the pivot tube first, so I ground out the cracks and welded them up and made some re-inforcing plates and welded them in place. Then the left axle extention broke accross the wholes that used for adjustment. Most of the breaks that I have seen and heard about are ones that happen without warning. Some call them "catastrophic" breaks. It seems that allthough all the axles can break, the axles running the wider and more offset tires break most.
A couple years ago I put an extention on my 1680 and was not about to experience that blasted axle breaking again, so I made one useing JD ends which are a lot heavier duty and dont have that stupid retarded camber to the wheels. I finally have the rest of the pieces to finish the job, just need to get the time in the shop now and do it so I can paint it. Here's a link to the project with pictures for the humor of it.
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http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-....tmode=1#M175000
That axle works so freek'n great. It drives down the road without a header like a car. No more dodging and weaving.
The issue is not limited to the 1680, it all the way to the 2388 at least. Same axle.
Mine cracked aroun the pivot tube first, so I ground out the cracks and welded them up and made some re-inforcing plates and welded them in place. Then the left axle extention broke accross the wholes that used for adjustment. Most of the breaks that I have seen and heard about are ones that happen without warning. Some call them "catastrophic" breaks. It seems that allthough all the axles can break, the axles running the wider and more offset tires break most.
A couple years ago I put an extention on my 1680 and was not about to experience that blasted axle breaking again, so I made one useing JD ends which are a lot heavier duty and dont have that stupid retarded camber to the wheels. I finally have the rest of the pieces to finish the job, just need to get the time in the shop now and do it so I can paint it. Here's a link to the project with pictures for the humor of it.
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-....tmode=1#M175000
That axle works so freek'n great. It drives down the road without a header like a car. No more dodging and weaving.
I just purchased a 1991 1680 with a big top hopper extension. The rear axle is factory and has no visible cracks. I have heard of problems with the rear axles breaking on the 1680s. What are peoples thoughts about reinforcing the axle as preventive maintenance?
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196 Posts
It could not hurt a thing, I bought a 2388 with bin extensions and the kid who owned it before me welded a 1" thick by 3" wide piece of strap on the bottom side of the axle. My neighbor has a 1680 no extensions on it and his axle broke. So better safe than sorry!!!
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196 Posts
Hey doorknob was looking at the pictures of you combine form newagtalk and was wondering what the black tube was on the outside of youre clean grain elevator. Looks like it comes up by the cab as well???
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That is my home made, high capacity tailings system. Its a crude old setup I made a long time ago, like over 10 years ago. It has worked flawless however, and if'n I was to ever have a newer machine, before it ever hit the field, it would have a new tailings elevator on it.
This one that I made goes up to the feederhouse. I was unsure about the low pressure side of the transition conce at the time I made it, so I wanted to be safe and went all the way to the feederhouse. Now I have plans to someday make a new one that may even be sellable as a bolt on kit, to get the tailings back into the front of the rotor.
If ya wanna know more about it, just say so. I have lots of pics of the whole machine and all the goofy little goodies I've made for it.
This one that I made goes up to the feederhouse. I was unsure about the low pressure side of the transition conce at the time I made it, so I wanted to be safe and went all the way to the feederhouse. Now I have plans to someday make a new one that may even be sellable as a bolt on kit, to get the tailings back into the front of the rotor.
If ya wanna know more about it, just say so. I have lots of pics of the whole machine and all the goofy little goodies I've made for it.
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Doorknob did you have those cut? and do you have the drawings for them i think i would like to build one for my own.
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Yes, I had those cut by a cnc plasma at a local fab shop. The fab shop is farmer owned, so taking the crude drawings I make to him was easy.
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The reason there are so many pieces is because he only has a 4x4' table. I was cutting the timeframe too close to have things done on a full size table in town. I do prefer laser when cutting anything thicker than 1/4" but again, the time thing.
I guess something that has to be considered is resale of the machine if you do so. My axle is non adjustable which is fine for me cause its where I want it and I dont plan on getting rid of the machine till its only good for parts.
Something else if you dont want to spend as much time as I building from scratch, you could buy the complete JD slide in ends with the spindles and tie rods. Then just build a center section to adapt from the IH frame mount (bolster?) to the JD ends. The other nice thing about the JD setup is the dual cylinders that keep the fluid displacement the same turning both directions. Which BTW the size of the cylinders was a direct replacement as I did not have to make any changes to any of the steering components elsewhere on the machine. Just something to think about anyway.
I'll tell ya another reason for my over sizing this axle is I may want to carry a straw chopper on it. I'm looking into putting the full grass seed straw load back on the soil and need something better than is available over the counter so far.
I guess something that has to be considered is resale of the machine if you do so. My axle is non adjustable which is fine for me cause its where I want it and I dont plan on getting rid of the machine till its only good for parts.
Something else if you dont want to spend as much time as I building from scratch, you could buy the complete JD slide in ends with the spindles and tie rods. Then just build a center section to adapt from the IH frame mount (bolster?) to the JD ends. The other nice thing about the JD setup is the dual cylinders that keep the fluid displacement the same turning both directions. Which BTW the size of the cylinders was a direct replacement as I did not have to make any changes to any of the steering components elsewhere on the machine. Just something to think about anyway.
I'll tell ya another reason for my over sizing this axle is I may want to carry a straw chopper on it. I'm looking into putting the full grass seed straw load back on the soil and need something better than is available over the counter so far.
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1,196 Posts
if folks are talking about 2388s breaking I would look into putting some strength in the rear axle just for peace of mind, I know when my 1480 snaped we had just finished flowers and was loading the combine for the last time, it was an intersting experance going along flat out (No header) and the axle went, it was a bit like taking off in a plane.
We have a 1989 1660 combine. I notice no-one mentioned anything about the 60 series combines. Is this still an issue with these machines? This is important because I am very fussy and do not want to have an issue like everyone was talking about on this subject!
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I would suggest reinforcing the axle top and bottom, replace the pipe with heavy wall drill stem or the equivalent and consider reinforcing the area the pipe pivots in under the combine. The pivot pipe I have in my 1680 is probably 3/4" thick.
My first 1480 had the area where the pipe pivot's break out when they pulled the combine out. Both of the 1480's I had and my current 1680 have the axle reinforced on top and bottom. The pivot point was reinforced also. My 1680 has 3" x 1/2" strap on both the top and bottom of the axle.
This is probably overkill but while you have it out you might as well do it right. I think it would be a lot better than setting on the spreaders.
My first 1480 had the area where the pipe pivot's break out when they pulled the combine out. Both of the 1480's I had and my current 1680 have the axle reinforced on top and bottom. The pivot point was reinforced also. My 1680 has 3" x 1/2" strap on both the top and bottom of the axle.
This is probably overkill but while you have it out you might as well do it right. I think it would be a lot better than setting on the spreaders.
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17 Posts
The 1660's will break too!
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