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I am working on a 1680. We got the rotor out and found that the middle row of straight bars are missing. All 4 of them are off. A couple of the mounts where they bolt up are pretty damaged. Does anyone know why they would of been removed and do they need to be put back on. My AI kit that I got has enough bars to install them on there so we are assuming they need to be put on. We didn't know if this was for different crop or for some kind of performance.


Also has anyone ever repaired the mounts on the rotor or know of a part# we can cut the old one out and weld a new one on.
 

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Wow! Those have been gone for a while. I can't think of any reason why they would be missing either. There isn't a part number for those brackets that I could find. They're definitely not supposed to be a wear item. I'm not sure how to go about repairing it. A good metalworker might be able to make a new one, but it would have to be a precision job.
 

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I can't think of why anyone would have taken them off other than to reduce over thrashing but with the mount still in place wouldn't that just impede crop flow? And if one or all fell off during operation I would think you would see some dents or bent metal in the rotor grate area and the discharge defector in back...
 

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Likely, those mounts were removed so as not to interfere with flow of viney crops. I doubt that over threshing was occurring -- the mounts are too close to the rear of the spirals to make much difference. They're not needed in that position on the rotor. I'd likely remove them permanently and tweak the transport vanes toward the front a little.
 

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I am working on a 1680. We got the rotor out and found that the middle row of straight bars are missing. All 4 of them are off. A couple of the mounts where they bolt up are pretty damaged. Does anyone know why they would of been removed and do they need to be put back on. My AI kit that I got has enough bars to install them on there so we are assuming they need to be put on. We didn't know if this was for different crop or for some kind of performance.


Also has anyone ever repaired the mounts on the rotor or know of a part# we can cut the old one out and weld a new one on.
I put a rock through my 1480 once and broke a couple bars. Was on a weekend and 100 miles from dealer so I just took that row off so rotor was still balanced and didn't see much dif except maybe higher dockage. Maybe something like that is what happened.
 

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Removing the straight bars on a standard rotor is actually fairly common practice in many areas. As mentioned above, tough vine crops, and in many areas, they impede the material flow causing over threshing and crop damage.

Basically, installing them or removing them is a tuning tool you can use when settings alone do not get what you want.
 

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On mine I completely removed the mounts and all on the angled bars, makes it kind of a standard specialty hybrid but still sucks in shoulder high beans but was night and day in wheat, really big improvement in damp straw compared to original
 

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I think the St.Johns welding rotor uses all straight standard bars dont they?

But again, IMO, it is another one of those area specific mods.

Like SWFarmService, some, when they find the design they like, and do not plan to return the original, will remove the mounting pedestals and all.

Somewhere, I have a picture of a rotor that some one modifies from a standard to include a spiral separator design. I wish I could find the picture again.
 

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My name is Donnie Estes, Have been rebuilding rotor bars for a long time. I first took straight bars out of the 60's and 80's standard rotors back in the early days of the case IH rotors. The reason for doing this is to make the rotors more aggressive. The straight bars were retarder bars. They were originally installed in the standard rotors to keep small grain- (Wheat) in the thrashing area longer, with cover plates to have a better thrash. This was alright for a small grain operation but when it came to beans and corn harvest we would take them out.
 

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Rotor drive coupling

I suspect that my rotor drive coupling is worn, there is about a 1/2 inch play at rear rotor. Has any one replaced it and what is the best way to get at it. Does one take the rotor out or remove the rotor drive assembly.
 

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I have replaced them, they are a pain either way. If you a lucky, strong and flexible the gear box is the way to go, I'm not sure a 1/2" is all that bad, if your machine has a Cummins I would replace it, the ones with an IH engine run a lot longer. I think the IH engine has better harmonics, also seems the hydro coupler lasts about twice as long
 
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