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Hi all 9520 is getting hot under Load, in 30°c air temps I can’t travel a mile without coolant temp alarm going off. As soon as I lift out to turn it drops a few points and alarm goes off. If I stop for 30 seconds it cools till needle sits at 12:00 I’ve stopped and cleaned radiator out twice that’s not helping. I suspect viscous fan is an issue as heading into breeze it runs marginally cooler and on cold morning it will run a gear higher without getting hot. Also viscous fan seems to have more resistance cold than hot. Is there anything else I should check for?
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There is a way to lock up the viscous fan clutch, it isn’t easy to get to it but it does work. I had the exact same problem last spring. The fan clutch isn’t hard to change on your own, but they are expensive. Took me a couple hours on a rainy evening to swap it out.


I made the straps out of some 1” flat bar, and bought a set of bolts to hold it.
 

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That is good to know about that lock kit. I had changed the viscous fan hub on an older 70 series but instead of it not cooling it was locking up due to the bearings inside failing and would make odd noises when standing by the tractor when idling. I took hold of the fan ( obviously engine off ! ) and found it was binding up to turn but also the fan was able to move forward and back as per the fan blade in my hand moving with a distinct looseness in the fore/aft direction. I talked to a mechanic and was warned that sooner or later the bearing within the hub would let go and the fan would go flying into the rad as he had seen this happen before so I chose to repair it right away vs turn a blind eye and destroy a rad and for that matter wipe an engine out in the process due to overheating with massive coolant loss. So just a warning to make sure your fan blade assembly is not able to flop around on the shaft as that would catch up with you sooner or later if it is. The fan takes a lot of power to turn at full speed, I guess if its always hot out and you need a high fan speed most of the time is one thing but if its not needed it would suck power and fuel for nothing, certainly a cheap fix for now with that strap kit idea as long as the fan hub is mechanically sound bearing wise. Probably wouldn't hurt to change out your thermostats as well, they may be just fine but its always possible that one of them isn't functioning as well as it should. And like was mentioned about the drive belt to put a new one on and so forth.
 

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Northern, I agree with the cautionary tale. But! Strap lock up kit was only to get me through till the proper parts can arrive. Mine went down on May, 9th 2020, I was 400ac into my seeding. Needed a quick fix to keep going as the clutch needed to come from some where deep in USA, with COVID restrictions and shipping delays partsmen at JD told me it could be up to 3weeks till it arrived. There wasn’t even a lock up kit in the province. Had to keep fan locked up for 8days till the fan showed up, 3 more till I had an opportunity to change it all out. My motto is, “if I can’t find a way.... I’ll make one!” Bubble gum and duct tape isn’t a permanent fix, but it’ll keep the wheels turning.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone for your replies! I will check the belt I have the clutch out I think I will lock it up for now as we are about to start seeding. The JD hub is $3000 here in OZ an aftermarket Hub is $477 but may not arrive until may.
 

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Holy crap is that JD hub expensive, I know I paid enough when I bought one but want to say it was maybe around 1300.00 although don't quote me on that. RD, totally get where you were coming from being hit with all the covid crap last spring and who would have thought we would be in the same mess and perhaps worse now. All you could do is what you did and your fan hub was probably not self destructing inside like mine was as it did not sound good when I tried to turn it ( crunching sounds, the bearings were BAD ) and with the wobble, that was a grenade waiting to pop its pin !
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so thanks again for all the replies. I took the viscous fan hub off, it felt fine bearings are good and it has a fair amount of resistance. I removed the fan belt and this is what I found I’m going to make a lock up kit for the fan while the hub is off as the belt won’t be in till tomorrow. I won’t fit the lock up kit until the fan belt is fitted and I can eliminate that as a problem but I’m quietly confident that the belt is my problem and I’ll be seeding by Thursday!
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That does not look healthy !. Hopefully that is your problem and don't have to spend more. Since I don't have that exact series of tractor I only assume it has some idlers as a part of the belts routing and certainly check them out as well if you have not for bearing issues. Not sure if its possible to rebuild those idlers or not, I replaced a couple of them on a 30 series tractor as they had a bit of looseness/ dryness and more of a preventative maintenance thing as I changed out the belt at the same time along with the actual tensioner as again that spring arm I was told at least in the 30 series can pile up and then the belt is going to slip and it all goes to crap in short order. After you get some use on the new belt give a comment if that fixed the problem as sometimes nothing is ever said after an issue is brought up and so no one knows what actually resolved a problem they might be experiencing as well.
 

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I will check the idler there is only one idler on the fan belt on the 12.5 in my 9520. Thanks yep I’ll give the report once the fan belt is fitted and I’m working again.
 

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Well after running it with new belt temp is still going up didn’t get into the red but it’s still running right up there, might try the lock up kit I made while hub was off next time I’m in the paddock either Saturday or Monday morning after Easter.
 

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Is the engine *actually over heating??
Electronic temp sensors can go funny..
Best is to check head temp with a infrared heat gun or something to that effect before spending a bunch of money chasing a ghost.

We had a grain truck started overheating last year, it was in fact a bad viscous coupler, most notably when it was hot and engine revved up there was little air flow and not much fan noise...
After replacing the hub the amount of air and air noise was quite dramatic.
And with the two hubs side by side on the bench there was no difference in drag when they were cool... but one just didn't work.
 

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Make sure the grooves are nice and deep in your pulleys aswell, found this out years ago on a 1680 was throwing belts at it but it wasn’t biting on a worn fan pulley
What you seeding over there, is it early for you guys and is that a custom liquid cart?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Make sure the grooves are nice and deep in your pulleys aswell, found this out years ago on a 1680 was throwing belts at it but it wasn’t biting on a worn fan pulley
What you seeding over there, is it early for you guys and is that a custom liquid cart?
Gday Ralph, shall do. Yeah won’t start canola or vetch until mid April. We’re sowing some forage crops, oats and vetch now will be vetch and kraken barley next. Yeah new this year liquid systems (SA) PR1 with a Spiker. running water through it at the moment to make sure everything is working before we start sowing our main crops. We will be running Trace Elements and UAN with fungicides injected into the line so I don’t have antagonising in the tank. The whole lot runs through my JDRC2000 on the aircart and 4640 screen.
 

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I think you should put an oil cooler on your air cart, so your tractor oil cooler does less and let's your rad cool your engine and ac
That reminds me of the practice of gearing up and throttling back, while that is all well and good as long as the engine isn't lugging, it also reduces the maximum speed of the fan. Obviously the fan drive has to be working properly first as otherwise nothing is going to pan out well. Highway tractors are a good example of that, climbing a hill in either the lower range of the working rpm's or shift down a gear and allow the engine to spin over more free and faster which in turn allows a faster fan speed. When pyro temps are climbing towards the danger zone invariably that tends to be at lower rpms and more heat is being generated by the engine vs near full rated hp rpm.
 
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