[bobby]

My 2188 feeder house plugs very easy. The slip clutch on the auger has been rebulit and the and i tightened the clutch as much as i could with the rotor wrench. I also checked the slip clutch on the feeder, it takes alot of force to make it slip, the friction plates are ok. Anyone have any other ideas. It is very frustrating we can't even keep the combine full or it will plug. I am also running another 2188 and the difference between the 2 is night and day I rarely plug the other one. Thanks in advance

 

[sigmaxy]

Code:I also checked the slip clutch on the feeder​

By checked the slip clutch do you mean you measured the torque required to slip the clutch and compared against the operators manual specification and found it to be in spec?

Anything look abnormal on the rock trap beater? Are the rotor's impeller blades badly worn? Any bent vanes in the transition cone which could be slowing down the flow of material into the rotor?

 

[bobby]

Yes i meant that i checked the torque according to the specs in the owner's manual and it was in spec. It appears to be plugging at the front of the feederhouse the material doesn't make it that far in. When i reverse it barely any material comes out. That is why the slip clutch on the auger was rebuilt we started having the problem last year and it appeared that it was the auger stopping,but that didn't help.It is a 1015 header with a swathmaster pickup.

 

[doorknob]

Are you sure its the slip clutch, not the belt? Running a pickup head, there's no load to speak of from the header. I dont about the newer cabs like the 21 has, but can you see the tri-rib belts out your right window? If so, when it pluggs, does the outside belt keep spinning or stop? There is a cylinder with a spring rod that engages that belt. It may be that the spring rod is broken or bent, or that the cylinder has an internal leak.

Sometimes a bearing in the cross shaft that goes from the right side with the pulley, to the left side where the header drivelines attaches, can be out or on its way out. If the cage that seperates the ball bearings inside the races is broken, it can allow the ball bearings to collide with each under and jam.

Along that same line, there is a welded idler arm mount ont he right side that is responcible for keeping the header drive tri-rib belt tight. Sometimes the welds that hold the mount to the feederhouse can break, allowing that belt to slip intermitently.

Best of luck to you. Hope you get it fixed as soon as possible.

 

[marshall]

Have you checked the front feeder drum stops they may be set at the lowest position not allowing the front feeder drum to go up when lots of material is going in . it was originally used as a rock retarder stop on the old 1480's with a heavy steel drum .
Marshall

 

[pureel]

First check your belt on the feeder house the one with the pipe around the threaded rod. Tighten it until you cannot turn the pipe then tighten it some more. Next take that big ugly shield off on you right side that is covering up your feeder jackshaft drive belt, have someone engage the feeder from in the cab watch the movment of the belt, when the shield is off there is a window that should be open all the way this shows you your belt is tight. Look in your manual on how to tighten feeder jackshaft belt this will explain it in great detail. Also like someone else had mentioned check your weld on the tightner I had one give way on me once.
Good luck

 

[directway]

I had a 2388 with the same problem and it was the belt on the side that drives the feeder house slipping. It was adjusted tight. The feeder house would even keep running with the switch off. Turned out the big pully was worn and the belt would slip under load. Just one more thing to check.

 

[steigerman]

Does your combine have atripple feeder chain with the sprocket tube? I have seen them strip out and not drive the chain when the shaft is turning.

 

[2188guy]

check to see if the key in pulley on drive pulley is in all the way. Had mine break off and side out. It was doing the same thing . Could only go 50 or so feet and it would stop.

 

[redhat]

Does your feeder have a rocktrap? Count how many springs are on the slip clutch assy on the feeder. If I remember right the rocktrap versions had 9 springs and the std feeder had 8. The operators manual tells you the proper adjustment of the springs by measured height.
Your auto feeder cut-off system could be working incorrectly (if your machine has this option) It can be turned off in the A-post display and see if that makes a difference. If so then the auto feeder cut-off system has a problem that needs to be fixed.

 

[jakeh]

I was having this problem with my two older combines, basically matched 1680's, one could run a solid 1.5 mph faster and NEVER plugged in swaths, the other was constantly slugged - this gradually started to happen over the course of the season. We were in rained-down swaths, still a little on the tough side and it came down to two problems - #1, we lowered the windguard down and back on the pickup (Rake-Up, same style guard as your Swathmaster, I reckon) to make it feed smoother - it wasn't noticeably slug-feeding, but it sure made a difference.

The root of the problem, though, appears to be the feederchain itself - it was getting pretty shot, and I think it was climbing-binding more than the other one, and was using half it's torque just to turn. We tightened it up more than we normally do (but we tend to run them a little looser than factory with homemade silencer kits), and it really turned it around. Might be part of your problem....

 

[deersniper]

Is your header feeding smoothly? We did a bunch of adjustments on our 2388 w/ 30' case head to make it feed smoother and that made a big difference.

Seems like everyone complains about the feederhouse on the case combines.

-dan