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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2188, that this winter, I fixed the feeder house because it was slugging last year. Which I thought was the problem. I put a new floor in, chain, sprockets, drum, the works the front is basically all redone. I ran it, and it worked better at feeding, But, if it gets any wet or green, or just will randomly slug. Now, I know my feeder house chain is on correctly. I do have a rock trap and impeller, it is the OEM 3 side, which is also where it will slug. Here is the rub when it slugs it throws the chain on the side that connects the drive/beater/reverser. I thought it was not tensioned enough, put on a spring when rebuilding and a new chain there, yet it still slugs at the beaters. Rotor will be totally empty. Rebuilt rotor also and put in new veins so it should be eating like a champ. My 1680 does not have the stone retarder/trap beater, and will cut all things at all hours, with this 2188 if it gets a hint of moisture, it will plug at the stone impeller. I have searched the forum with info on the razor beater, which is my next purchase. But just need to know OEM settings for now to get through this harvest this year. Will show a picture of my set up on the side. I also am using the 32 gear and making sure it is slow speed and not high speed with the beater. Any pro tips will help. I live in Kansas and never have had a stone trap beater before thanks!
 

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I have a razor beater as well as a pfp parts staggered beater. Both work about the same. Big improvement from the OEM beater. Also what rotor front do you run? An accellor front or kile front will make a huge difference over the old elephant ears for feeding.
 

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I have a razor beater as well as a pfp parts staggered beater. Both work about the same. Big improvement from the OEM beater. Also what rotor front do you run? An accellor front or kile front will make a huge difference over the old elephant ears for feeding.
Just the standard elephant ears, never have done anything other than OEM. Elephants ears are not new, but not in bad condition. Thanks for the quick reply. Will look into the front kits too!
 

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Quick fix for this year if you dont have stones....1-2 hrs of work. Remove stone trap section that is attached to feeder house.
 

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Quick fix for this year if you dont have stones....1-2 hrs of work. Remove stone trap section that is attached to feeder house.
Is that an option? Thought it needed that piece? Do you have a picture of it with it off?
 

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I wouldn't personally run without it. But I have lots of stones. I have seen some old 1480s without a stone trap at all. There should be 2 pins that attach the feeder house to the stone trap and 2 pins that attach the stone trap to the machine. I believe you can just pull the stone trap out completely.
Hopefully someone else can confirm my idea before you go ahead and do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wouldn't personally run without it. But I have lots of stones. I have seen some old 1480s without a stone trap at all. There should be 2 pins that attach the feeder house to the stone trap and 2 pins that attach the stone trap to the machine. I believe you can just pull the stone trap out completely.
Hopefully someone else can confirm my idea before you go ahead and do it.
I had it off, and almost did that but was worried I would have to replace the belt running it with a smaller one since it would be now 6 inches or more shorter with the trap off. But if you could, I probably would for now until I could get the razor on. Not against the rock trap, but if it allows me to cut again, I would take it off in a minute.
 

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Hmmm. Yes the triple belt on the left side hey? I'm nowhere near my farm to go take a look to help you out on that. You're probably right. Would need a shorter belt.
 

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When you rebuilt the feeder house did you rebuild the slip clutch? I rebuilt my slip clutch two years ago and it made it a totally different machine .. we only plugged it a handful of times last year.. also I'm assuming you made sure your sprockets were aligned when you put it back together if they are misaligned could be why you are throwing chains
 

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Second the Razor beater. Will make a different combine out of it. We had the exact same issue on 2 of them and that cleared the issue in a hurry. Not a bad job at all. Change the end bearings when you are in there. Good Luck. You will love that change.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, just an update. I am hoping this is the problem. Called, a dealer and the shop foreman, sent us a photo of an installed chain on the beater/reverser from and... it is on wrong on our combine. I think this will get the chain more tension and help us run better. Let’s hope it’s that simple! As you can tell our set up is on wrong. If it’s that simple, I will feel like a dunce. Fingers crossed.
 

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I would suggest going to the smaller sprocket on the beater shaft like the photo shows - this will allow the slug to hopefully get torn apart by the beater and not plug . Also try running the chain pretty tight ( have the tensioner near the stop block and not near the loose end of the slot ) as when you have a jamb and the drive shuts off the momentum of the reverser flywheel will cause the chain to get loose until the tensioner hits the stop with a bang .
 

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Hi.Paul H.
I have a 2188 and had the same problem, living in Denmark often means damp conditions and the darn rockbeater would slug and rumble and sometimes straw would get around the axel up against the bearing and smoke the bearing in no time. Rock beater was OEM stock. Rebuild the darn thing, still same problem! Then I called my Case combine mechanic and he suggested to remove the rockbeater and as have few rocks I did so (used combine, came with rockbeater)
It was quite an easy job and all it tok was the new shorter belt and a difrent chain shielding house (shorter). And I never looked back, combine runs great now. So all I will say in this post is, YES it is possible to remove rockbeater.
Thanks and have a great harvest season to You and everyone ``overthere``
Egon
 

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The Razor Beater is awsome.

Have you tried slowing down your rock trap impeller? Try 1:1 sprocket ratio.
It sounds counter intuitive but if the beater is too fast I have had problems with backfeeding. Even with the Razor I still end up switching sprockets depending on conditions. If you alternate the two you have right now you wont need to adjust roller chain length. I have not found a particular rule of thumb, just that if the current speed for current conditions isnt working try something different. Canola not an issue. Peas I run the beater slower. Cereals it varies. Dont be scared to play with the speeds. Only takes a few minutes to change.

Also, check for dirt buildup on edge of trap. Wet dirt will stick and make a ledge that causes big grief. You have to open the trap and reach up and feel edges. We had to scrape ours out several times a day last year trying to pick tough wheat off muddy ground.
 
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