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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 2188 that developed a vibration during wheat harvest and we assumed it was out of balance for some reason. On investigation we found play in the front bearing area and on disassembly found that the bearing has spun on the shaft and ruined it. The bearing has grease and spins easily. How could this have happened? With all the force that would be placed on that bearing in operation, how could it not turn unless almost locked up?
I have tried to extract the front shaft from the tube and it will not budge. Any special pullers anyone has made? I am using a flat plate and a couple draw bolts but it won't budge. I am afraid I will have to pull the rotor and remove the lowen afx kit and heat the tube red hot. Any ideas would be appreciated
 

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I ran into the exact same thing on my 2388, we tried everything to pull the shaft and finally gave up! ended with buying a new afx rotor. sorry for the bad news but I think what happens is the shaft or rotor gets bent somehow thus the vibration and worn shaft. also renders it impossible to extract it, normally it should just pull right out.
 

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had that happen on our 2188 after we installed the AFX rotor high speed vibration we also thought it was the brg. but we foud as you did the brg. had spun on the shaft we found we hadn't put enough shims between the brg. an the bolt on the end of the shaft the bolt gets tight but only because it bottoms out, ok lets see if we can help plan A, cut a pipe & weld a 1/2in plate with hole for rotor bolt to fit in get a couple of bolts longer an have the pipe you cut a little long a good air impact is a must here starting with the longer bolt grade 8 preferably tighten as much as impact can go, using a large hammer 6lb+ give it some good licks repeat till you run out of bad words! didn't work plan B remove rotor! usuing same method as plan A, get a shaft maybe 1 1/2in diameter long enough to go from rear of rotor where splines are to the rear end of shaft have enough stick out of rotor, use the [email protected]$#%$##@ sledge-maul you can find an while screwing with impact on front knock the @#$# out of it from the rear, an thats it! hope you get it done! PS oh the specialty rotor you only have to remove the bolt on the AFX we had to cut the pin on the front of the cone an work it out with a air hammer an drill have some pics on this site or photobucket somewhere good luck!!!!!
 

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oh yeah she runs smooth now that was the problem when we went to remove the front cap on the rotor the rpm spindle was loose but the bolt was tight, dealer had to call the red line to case to let us know how to get shaft out, we had an idea it was to cut an remove the pin in the cone, AFX front shaft kit comes with shaft an pin actually the new shaft was loose in the rotor kit instruction say to knurl the shaft so it is snug in housing, I also put the removal tool on the shaft with pin installed pulled it up before welding pin in place, had my specialty rotor with used heavy duty vanes here for three years no bits had scrap man cut them up about a month ago good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So you put a new shaft in and it runs smooth? I got to thinking and worrying that maybe something in our rotor is sprung and caused wobbling that wore the shaft and a new shaft might not fix the problem. We very well might not have had the bearing squeezed tight enough. When we remove rotors, we shim to get the clearance right in the front but I can't remember putting shims on the other side to squeeze the bearing. I assumed the rotor put enough force on it when running that it would never be able spin on the shaft unless it siezed. Thanks for the help. I bought a new specialty rotor to slip in now and will work this rotor over so I have a spare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I figured out what happened to the front shaft. The bearing didn't spin on the shaft, it was wobbling. The bearing is made to have a lock collar but a collar is not used in this application so how the bearing went on the shaft apparently didn't seem important. However, there is a gap between the shaft and the inside of the pipe it slides into ( the shaft tapers down inside the pipe an inch). You put shim washers on the shaft before you install the bearing which covers up this gap. The taper on the bearing race for the lock collar is enough that it is putting all the force on the shim washers and not the front of the pipe which eventually starts to bend the washers and cause the bearing to wobble and wear out the shaft and the kidney the bearing is mounted in. Very costly stupid mistake we made.
 

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We just did it on a 5000 hr. O2 2388
What a job , tight all the way , and it is in 18 inches. , thread rod screwed into end of shaft , , well caseing, big
Washer nuts and impact , changed rod and nuts 5 times. 4 hours
Sell the combine lol.
Now to get tube clean enough to put new shaft in.
 
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